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-   -   Ugly Drum Smoker (https://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23436)

NCSU-Q 10-04-2010 12:15 PM

In the spirit of doing it cheap & simple, I was hoping there was a better option than buying a $40 mount from BBQ Guru.

Has anyone come up with their own design that was simple, effective, and cheap??

NCSU-Q 10-04-2010 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anchors Smokeshop (Post 1420735)
Go to the bbq guru website and there will be info on the setup there.

In the spirit of ingenuity & inexpensive, I was hoping that some one had come up with a way other than purchasing a $40 adapter from BBQ Guru.

---k--- 10-04-2010 01:41 PM

I ran my UDS for the first time this weekend. I put 1 full webber charcoal chimney full of Kingsford in my basket. I piled it up around the outside edge of the 13" diameter basket to get a Minion method going. Then, I put 1/2 lit charcoal to fill up the middle. I put it in my UDS, and had temps at 200d nearly instantly. I close the vents and then slowly opened them as the temps steadied. It then chugged along around 240.

But, after about 5 hours, the temps started to fall off. I opened it up and saw that I still had a lot of charcoal around the edges, but the charcoal in the middle had all burned up. I shook the basket and knocked the coals into the middle and all was good - other then all the black smoke it made.

Is there a preferred way to start the coals? I think this next time I'm going to skip putting the charcoal in the middle.

SmokerKing 10-04-2010 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ---k--- (Post 1420911)
I ran my UDS for the first time this weekend. I put 1 full webber charcoal chimney full of Kingsford in my basket. I piled it up around the outside edge of the 13" diameter basket to get a Minion method going. Then, I put 1/2 lit charcoal to fill up the middle. I put it in my UDS, and had temps at 200d nearly instantly. I close the vents and then slowly opened them as the temps steadied. It then chugged along around 240.

But, after about 5 hours, the temps started to fall off. I opened it up and saw that I still had a lot of charcoal around the edges, but the charcoal in the middle had all burned up. I shook the basket and knocked the coals into the middle and all was good - other then all the black smoke it made.

Is there a preferred way to start the coals? I think this next time I'm going to skip putting the charcoal in the middle.

Try lump. Level it off in the basket, Dump 3/4 lit lump chimney in the center.

Muscrat 10-04-2010 06:55 PM

Well you guys know how to make the wheels start turnin. I'm starting a uds now. I have the the fire cage built but the catch pan I'm using is off an old water heater. I have removed the paint from the hot side but the underside still has paint. Do I need to remove that paint also?

Anchors Smokeshop 10-04-2010 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Muscrat (Post 1421368)
Well you guys know how to make the wheels start turnin. I'm starting a uds now. I have the the fire cage built but the catch pan I'm using is off an old water heater. I have removed the paint from the hot side but the underside still has paint. Do I need to remove that paint also?

Yes, remove the paint. Burn it off before putting any meat in the uds. You don't want that paint burning off during a cook.

Muscrat 10-04-2010 09:07 PM

I'll do that. Next question is since I'll only have one grill. How far from the top do I need to put it?

Thanks in advance.
I'd post pics but don't know how. All I get are red x's

colonel00 10-04-2010 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Muscrat (Post 1421497)
I'll do that. Next question is since I'll only have one grill. How far from the top do I need to put it?

Thanks in advance.
I'd post pics but don't know how. All I get are red x's

You want it at least 22-24" from the bottom of your charcoal basket. From there, if you just have a flat lid, I would try to put it down 8-10" to allow clearance for large butts or a turkey.

---k--- 10-04-2010 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmokerKing (Post 1420940)
Try lump. Level it off in the basket, Dump 3/4 lit lump chimney in the center.

I've gone back and forth with lump and K with my ECB. I got good results from either...

I'll try and level it off this next time, rather than all in the middle.

Mike W 10-05-2010 12:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike W (Post 1419451)
Wanted to share these. I got two used drums that had sunflower seed oil in em. Had em sand blasted inside and out, then powder coated. I figure it's worth $100 each to keep my lungs clean and save almost 10 hours of burning, grinding and painting. Used the hardware from my current rusted spray painted ones. I use a method where both racks have 6 in carriage bolts (like tables) the bottom rack supports the top rack. This way the racks don't get hung up and I can swap racks mid cook with ease. This is why the bolts on the sides are so low. Also the thermometers are just for looks. I am always using electronic devices. These will stay in the team trailer when not in use. They are as shiny as a new Weber Kettle. My teammate has the same two but powder coated red. We cook on 4 one for each meat. Thanks for viewing! Mike.

http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/9...1009171902.jpg

http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/5...1009171903.jpg

http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/9...1009302100.jpg

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/8...1009302101.jpg

Yesterday am after an overnight seasoning.

http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/5...1010010839.jpg

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/7...1010021132.jpg

Some folks have been asken me to show how I built my racks so here are some more picts.

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/1351/stp62685.jpg

You can get away with bolts on just one rack but I like the ability to swap out the racks mid cook top for bottom etc. I do some small catering gigs where I cook 3 shoulders per rack. The bottom rack would get done about 3 hrs sooner so now I swap halfway when I foil. The racks can be lifted out with ease. The bolts let the racks act as a stand/table with meat on the racks. I can quickly pull the racks and meat out and close the lid back up. I'll foil than swap rack positions. Having two levels of support bolts (bolted through the drum) doesn't allow for this since your bottom rack will get hung up on the top bolts. I also put my thermometer below the bottom rack. It again is just for looks. It runs about 40 degrees cooler at that level than the center of the top rack.
http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/9826/stp62687.jpg

Here I have a third rack that sits on the top rack. This will allow me to cook two to three racks of spares (St Louis) Rib tips go on the bottom rack. We cook 4 racks for competitions and this method allows me to cook em flat without a rib rack. I also foil ribs so again they can lay flat two racks per rack. This also works for chicken pieces.
http://img693.imageshack.us/img693/6434/stp62688.jpg

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/1565/stp62690.jpg

http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/2305/stp62692.jpg

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/8334/stp62694.jpg

Here I have my third rack (rib rack)
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/4186/stp62696.jpg

I used pure non plated steel bolts. Hardware total for two racks $5. Stanless steel will set you back $40. These bolts are coated with oil when you buy em to prevent rust. I got mine at Gnahl Lumber (So Cal). My rack bolts that go through the drum are stainless and all other hardware is stainless.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/5757/stp62700.jpg

I figured someone would ask about my basket set up so here are some picts. I also picked up a 2x20 aluminum cake pan at a local bake shop. You can also find em online. I’ve seen people use galvanized oil pans but that has led, and I’m kind of against my kids growing a tail. :-D I used two kettle coal grates at 90 degrees. This is to hold lump better. If ya use briquettes I don’t think it’s necessary. I also have a container of used deep fry oil and a paint brush. I paint all metal after each cook with a coat of oil to keep the rust off.

http://cooksdream.com/store/llprd202.html

http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/9274/stp62698.jpg

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/2448/stp62697.jpg

This has deffinatly become an addiction. What I love most is scoring higher than folks on $8000 cookers. These little things turn out (in my opinion) the best bbq. Thanks for viewing and sharing your's too. Most of all have fun!

jcinadr 10-05-2010 11:01 AM

I am not using a guru blower - so not sure the best method to put it on.

In the past I used a small pvc junction box - one of the small ones that connects conduit to conduit. I drilled out a hole on the side of the box for my fan and plugged up one of the conduit holes. I used a thread to pvc fitting to connect the box to my nipple. The fan was held in place with zip ties. It worked pretty good.

The problem with connecting the blower to an existing nipple is that the fan hits one side of the fire basket. On warmer burns that will cause the basket to burn unevenly. I suspect if it every becomes a large enough annoyance you could build a small diffuser plate - or plumb to multiple nipples. My solution was to but the blower on the bottom, and use a full diffuser plate.

NCSU-Q 10-05-2010 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcinadr (Post 1421927)
I am not using a guru blower - so not sure the best method to put it on.

In the past I used a small pvc junction box - one of the small ones that connects conduit to conduit. I drilled out a hole on the side of the box for my fan and plugged up one of the conduit holes. I used a thread to pvc fitting to connect the box to my nipple. The fan was held in place with zip ties. It worked pretty good.

The problem with connecting the blower to an existing nipple is that the fan hits one side of the fire basket. On warmer burns that will cause the basket to burn unevenly. I suspect if it every becomes a large enough annoyance you could build a small diffuser plate - or plumb to multiple nipples. My solution was to but the blower on the bottom, and use a full diffuser plate.

Thanks... you don't get the side burn issue in the egg, but the blower, though on the side of the Egg, is well under the lump. If you attach it ultimately to a nipple, like the typical intakes that people use, that should work as a nozzle that really blows the air underneath the coals, and just keeps the air oxygen rich and moving through the drum. I'll tinker with it and figure something out.

Right now, my best idea is to use a 1" ball valve for my main intake, and use a piece of bicycle inner tube rubber as a gasket of sorts to make a tight seal between the fan and the valve... if that makes sense.

brunski 10-05-2010 01:55 PM

@ mikeW
I see your concept and i really like it.
I have couple of questions:

1. how many inches from the bottom for the 1st rack?
2. What are the sizes of the bolts between the racks?

thanks for your information

brunski...

jcinadr 10-05-2010 07:08 PM

When I was attached to a nipple, I was doing 2 things that were exaggerating the issue. One I was cooking hot (300-350 my tiny blower was giving all it had). The other was I was running with twigs instead of lump.

Current set up has an oversized blower that is restricted by the pipe bushing (did not have a spare close nipple). With the blower wide, it can keep an even fire burning in the basket (not that I would ever want to keep a fire burning while smoking - but it was a cool experiment).

Paul B 10-05-2010 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcinadr (Post 1422592)
When I was attached to a nipple, I was doing 2 things that were exaggerating the issue. One I was cooking hot (300-350 my tiny blower was giving all it had). The other was I was running with twigs instead of lump.

Current set up has an oversized blower that is restricted by the pipe bushing (did not have a spare close nipple). With the blower wide, it can keep an even fire burning in the basket (not that I would ever want to keep a fire burning while smoking - but it was a cool experiment).

"When I was attached to a nipple, I was doing 2 things that were exaggerating the issue"

Can we say that here???????:laugh::becky::laugh:.

Paul B
SS UDS


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