Bob I don't see a problem with using the conduit nuts on the inside but if you really don't want to do that than get some 16 gauge metal and if you have a 1'' hole saw cut a hole and then trim the outside edge to about 2''. Bend the corners up so you have something to hold on to and screw it on the pipe. It may take a little effort at first but it will work, mite put a drop or two of vegy oil on to make it a little easier.

I have done this many times when I don't have a nut to back something up. I also put some automotive red gasket sealer around the outside to stop any air leaks, if you take your time it can look good but I always get in a hurry and get a little messy. The red sealer will not hold paint very good is about the only downside I can see with it.

If the pic shows up you can see that I have used a 2'' nipple and it works just tits hehehe. When I get my welder set up the way I want, with gas and smaller wire I am hoping to be able to weld it instead but thats down the road a bit.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e6...100_2209-1.jpg

A 2'' exhaust should be good.
Dave

You know... i had a obvious air leak, and air conditioner duct putty (the gray stuff) solved the problem. It says it's non-toxic, but that doesn't matter because it's on the outside. Comes in a brick and easily rolls out to wrap onto the close nipple.

RMR

Had to get in on this thread before it hit one trillion posts. My first UDS on it's first cook! Thanks all here for the fantastic advice.

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...que/UDS026.jpg

Please, Stop the Madness!
 

If it isn't SS it more than likely Zinc or Cad plated.
Don't worry about it.
No Baby has been born with two heads as a result of using Galvanized fasteners,
and in fact, there is no report of anyone becoming ill due to the use of same.

Weiser

What I found was a hexagon head bushing that fit 1 1/4" on the outside and 1" on the inside. It works great but I may still have to do some minimal welding in order to make it air tight. Though the plumbing putty may be a better way to go.

Pics will follow shortly. The rest of the bushings will be here on Tuesday.

Bob Most are not galvanized but are cadium plated. Pool acid dunk and water rinse and all is good. I perconally wouldn't worry about it. Also fender washers will work to cover gap.

If the bishing you speak of if from the black pipe section watch welding it because the ones I have seen are a rough cast piece (almost like cast iron)and don't take to welding.

Also use JB weld instead of putty.

excellent advice norco.

Read through all 168 pages, took tons of notes, have battle plans in head, now need materials and a lot of help from the build gods.

Just to make sure you ought look through this thread
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=43943

Weber Lid with or without Base Bottom Lip
 

I have read through the posts. Wow. I am ready to build my first drum.

I have a 55 sealed drum for $20 and also p/u a Weber for $20. I am going to cut off the top of the sealed drum with either a chisel or jig saw. I have a couple of questions which may have been answered. But after all these pages its hard to remember exactly what all the advice was.

1. Is there a better way to remove the lid other then a chisel or Jig saw that does not involve buying a special tool (i.e. lid cutter)?

2. The drum had 5-30 weight oil in It. Should I remove the lid and do a cleaning burn or wait till after I have completed construction?

3. As far as seasoning should I burn, clean then apply pam or some other oil?

4. After the burn off what is the best way to clean/remove the residual crud from inside the barrel?

5. I have seen a few Weber lids. Some are directly on the grill. Others have cut the bottom lip off of the Weber base and placed it in side the grill. Is there a problem with placing directly on the drum? I seem to get a pretty tight fit. Maybe to tight. I do not know/believe it is air tight all the way around.

6. If I go with the bottom base of the Weber and cut it off (may be two inches total), how do you attach it to the drum when you place it inside? Is there an issue with air leakage? I saw some pictures of a members grill that used a Weber top and it leaked all over the outside of the drum because he did not have a good seal.

Thanks for all your help. It is an impressive collection of knowledge.
Scott

a good jig saw and a quality blade such as 18 tooth per inch will make a very clean cut, maybe no grinding! :wink:
sounds like your lid is what everyone is looking for! Your not gonna be removing it very often once you learn to control it and trust it.
IF YOUR LOOKIN THEN YOUR NOT COOKIN! :razz:

1. jigsaw works fine if you did not get an openhead barrel.
2. remove the lid, drill the vent holes in the bottom, then do a burn. You need the vent holes in the bottom to get enough O2 for the burn.
3. and 4. after the burn I wirebrushed the inside manually. It took a few minutes. Then I wiped it down with a damp rag, dried it, and sprayed on a bunch of Pam.
5. I have no comments yet on weber lid sealing.
6. I am shopping around for a weber lid ( or possibly a Uniflame because it comes with hinges) to attach to my UDS. It appears that the domed lids do a good job of letting the nastiness that forms on the inner barrel drain down. The problem seems that much of said nastiness leaks out. I have a thought about welding a 1 inch wide strip of sheet metal inside the lid to create a lip that will cause said nastiness to drip inside the drum and not ruin my beautiful paintjob. ( editors note: since it has been too cold here, last night was 6 degrees, I have not given my drum its beautiful paint job yet. But it will happen, and there will be pictures! )

I don't remember seeing this question, but can a heavy aluminum pizza pan be used as an ash catcher, or will it melt from the heat of the fire box?

Here is a charcoal basket with $3.00 aluminum pizza pan for ash catcher...works real good. I believe it's a 16" pizza pan (might be 18").