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-   -   Ugly Drum Smoker (https://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23436)

Paul B 02-10-2010 07:15 PM

Did I get the 5000th post?????

Paul B
SS UDS

Boshizzle 02-10-2010 07:15 PM

Put me down for an XXL. I like my t-shirts baggy with the tail untucked.

IronStomach 02-10-2010 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul B (Post 1176832)
Did I get the 5000th post?????

Paul B
SS UDS

No, you missed it by one, that's what you get for getting a SS drum. :wink:

CUTigerQ 02-10-2010 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChiefOsceola (Post 1176765)
Sweet! I'd wear it proudly! :biggrin:

And so would I!!! Awesome looking shirt. Just please put the art on the back...lol. I hate shirts with art on the front. :rolleyes:

CUTigerQ 02-10-2010 07:28 PM

Oh, and ill need a XXXL...too much pork, ive been eating. LOL

sdb25 02-10-2010 07:40 PM

God I love that idea! I'll take 7 Large (one for every day of the week).

N8man 02-10-2010 07:57 PM

I'm glad y'all like the design, but I don't want this to
seem like I'm hawking my wares, so to speak, especially
in the greatest Drum Smoker Thread of all time.
If the Mods think this demeans this thread in any way, please
move it out of here. It was not my intention.

CUTigerQ 02-10-2010 07:59 PM

OK..start a new thread that can be the 2nd greatest thread...DO EET!

Norcoredneck 02-10-2010 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MariettaSmoker (Post 1176889)
OK..start a new thread that can be the 2nd greatest thread...DO EET!

Gonna be hard to make the second spot lots of favorites.

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...t=thanksgiving

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...sic+Dr.+Pepper

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=43943

And there is the Peanut thread.

But then again this was originally a build thread.

ChiefOsceola 02-10-2010 08:14 PM

Congrats armor! You need a cookie for being # 5000. Maybe a rib in our case?

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-10-2010 08:33 PM

1st post for me. I am brand new to the forum and my head hurts from all the reading, i am about 2/3 the way done with the readings. anyways....i have a question...
I got a food grade barrel, it had honey in it before i got it. (honey sticker is still on it and it smells like honey). the lining in it looks like a light coat of tan spray paint. Anyways i live in a area where there is no way i can blaze a huge fire in this barrel. I have been informed that i will be fined from the community and possibly the city if reported. Anyways, i am sad that i am going to miss out on the roaring fire but i was thinking.... Can i just have the drum sandblasted inside and out??? Will it take care of everything that causes concern. If this is an ok idea Then when i get it back home from the sandblaster what shouldd my next step be, cooking oil and a small fire before rust comes around?

BobBrisket 02-10-2010 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoviceBBQmovinUp (Post 1176969)
1st post for me. I am brand new to the forum and my head hurts from all the reading, i am about 2/3 the way done with the readings. anyways....i have a question...
I got a food grade barrel, it had honey in it before i got it. (honey sticker is still on it and it smells like honey). the lining in it looks like a light coat of tan spray paint. Anyways i live in a area where there is no way i can blaze a huge fire in this barrel. I have been informed that i will be fined from the community and possibly the city if reported. Anyways, i am sad that i am going to miss out on the roaring fire but i was thinking.... Can i just have the drum sandblasted inside and out??? Will it take care of everything that causes concern. If this is an ok idea Then when i get it back home from the sandblaster what shouldd my next step be, cooking oil and a small fire before rust comes around?

Sandblasting is fine. You can also get a weedburner and go to town on it. Sandblasting will save you a lot of work too. If you live in a community that's anything like the one my uncle in Gilbert lives in, you will get reported when you light the match.
Can't wait to see your drum.

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-10-2010 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobBrisket (Post 1176991)
Sandblasting is fine. You can also get a weedburner and go to town on it. Sandblasting will save you a lot of work too. If you live in a community that's anything like the one my uncle in Gilbert lives in, you will get reported when you light the match.
Can't wait to see your drum.

Ding Ding Ding...Gilbert is Where i am hahahah.
what should i do to the barrel when i get it back from sand blasting?
Now i just need to find a place to sandblast this thing. I have never had anything sandblasted so i am not sure what price i might be looking at. (time to get the yellow pages out)

BadHorsieBBQ 02-10-2010 09:13 PM

@ Stiffy You don't think these drums are to thick for those knock out punches to cut. I thought that the drums were 18 gauge and the max for the knock out punches 10 gauge mild steel, aluminum, fiberglass and plastic. Did you use the knock out punches.

Norcoredneck 02-10-2010 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BadHorsieBBQ (Post 1177064)
@ Stiffy You don't think these drums are to thick for those knock out punches to cut. I thought that the drums were 18 gauge and the max for the knock out punches 10 gauge mild steel, aluminum, fiberglass and plastic. Did you use the knock out punches.

Smaller number, thicker material.

BadHorsieBBQ 02-10-2010 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norcoredneck (Post 1177067)
Smaller number, thicker material.


Dang it I knew that I was not using my brain as usual, So the harbor freight Knockout punches will work just fine then.

armor 02-10-2010 09:21 PM

I have sandblasted all 3 that I built. After blasting I painted the exterior and finished the build doing nothing to inside at this time. It actually sat in garage painted with lid on for a few days after painting and inside did not rust. After build I sprayed the inside down with pam and fired it up to season. If I remember I put a chicken in so I would get some grease dripping into coals and just let it cook into oblivion. Mainly was learning to control temps. Just don't let temps get away..better to start shutting down air intakes before you reach desired temps. Once they get passed what you are looking for it will take some time to get them back down.

Norcoredneck 02-10-2010 09:22 PM

Here you go action!
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...h_VID00102.jpg

armor 02-10-2010 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChiefOsceola (Post 1176922)
Congrats armor! You need a cookie for being # 5000. Maybe a rib in our case?

I'll take that rib!

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-10-2010 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by armor (Post 1177077)
I have sandblasted all 3 that I built. After blasting I painted the exterior and finished the build doing nothing to inside at this time. It actually sat in garage painted with lid on for a few days after painting and inside did not rust. After build I sprayed the inside down with pam and fired it up to season. If I remember I put a chicken in so I would get some grease dripping into coals and just let it cook into oblivion. Mainly was learning to control temps. Just don't let temps get away..better to start shutting down air intakes before you reach desired temps. Once they get passed what you are looking for it will take some time to get them back down.

Awesome, thanks for the info i just got my barrel yesterday and want to get it blasted tomorrow. I have drilled nothing yet but i will take pictures of my 1st UDS build. sometime next week.

Norcoredneck 02-10-2010 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BadHorsieBBQ (Post 1177071)
Dang it I knew that I was not using my brain as usual, So the harbor freight Knockout punches will work just fine then.

Thing to remember is that the HF punch set is FOR conduit. What this means is that a 3/4" conduit punch will be for a clearance hole (@1 1/16') instead os the 1" hole required to thread the pipe in.

jgh1204 02-10-2010 09:31 PM

Arizona is nothing but desert. What are they worried about burning? Or is it a pollution issue?

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-10-2010 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jgh1204 (Post 1177094)
Arizona is nothing but desert. What are they worried about burning? Or is it a pollution issue?

Everything is so dry here and stuff likes to catch on FIRE:icon_devil. Thats why So Cal and Arizona have so many state wide fires in the summer time.

CmdCtrl 02-10-2010 09:39 PM

Awesome educational video there Norcoredneck.

BadHorsieBBQ 02-10-2010 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norcoredneck (Post 1177093)
Thing to remember is that the HF punch set is FOR conduit. What this means is that a 3/4" conduit punch will be for a clearance hole (@1 1/16') instead os the 1" hole required to thread the pipe in.

So the punches in the Harbor Freight are all 1/16th over so would not work for my purpose. I guess I am back to the step bit for drilling the 1" hole for the 3/4 pipe nipples.

Norcoredneck 02-10-2010 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BadHorsieBBQ (Post 1177117)
So the punches in the Harbor Freight are all 1/16th over so would not work for my purpose. I guess I am back to the step bit for drilling the 1" hole for the 3/4 pipe nipples.

Missed your need, enlighten me and maybe I can suggest a method, got enough holes in my head I know a little about makin'em:biggrin:

BadHorsieBBQ 02-10-2010 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norcoredneck (Post 1177130)
Missed your need, enlighten me and maybe I can suggest a method, got enough holes in my head I know a little about makin'em:biggrin:

I just wanted an easy full proof way to make the three 1" hole for the 3/4 pipe nipples (Intakes) in the UDS I am about to build.

If I used a punch I would need a 1" inch chassis punch Correct. Since they are sized in real dimensions

Norcoredneck 02-10-2010 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BadHorsieBBQ (Post 1177145)
I just wanted an easy full proof way to make the three 1" hole for the 3/4 pipe nipples (Intakes) in the UDS I am about to build.

If I used a punch I would need a 1" inch chassis punch Correct. Since they are sized in real dimensions

Correct. Like anything quality name brand are expensive. I prefer to use a hole saw myself. For those looking for unibits/stepdrills. Enco tools has a couple of sets on sale. I have a catolog at work and will post part numbers/links tonight. I have made lierally hundreds of holes using this hole saw and it will do more. Buy starret or milwakee. Sp?
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...k/IMG_3039.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...k/IMG_3040.jpg

d0od 02-10-2010 10:28 PM

Here is my first build, kept it basic. I smoked a 3-2-1 fattie in it last night after it had been seasoning for 6 hours, think the temp was a little high it was ok but a little overdone. Now I just need to get to Costco and get some ribs.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2703/...28a6a859a2.jpg


Still a little rust in the bottom, it is really cleaner than it looks (wire brushed to to bare metal), after I Pam'd the in side it made it look black and red, reflections I guess.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/...6777a31061.jpg


Made my handle out of a chunk of purple heart I had, did a rough dove tail, wish I would have made the handle run over the sides... next time. The lid came from another drum so the fit was not tight so I just clamped it.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/...964224d352.jpg

Norcoredneck 02-10-2010 10:32 PM

Great job. Gonna make some fine grub.

Norcoredneck 02-10-2010 10:36 PM

Here is a worthy set
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Or a single
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

ChiefOsceola 02-10-2010 10:42 PM

Looks good d0od! Cool handle idea...nice personal touch.

Marty 02-11-2010 06:30 AM

I have cooked on my uds a couple of times. each time i got some water standing in the bottom of the drum.my smoke has a foul smell to it also using kingsford and some small chunks of hickory. smoke smells like burning paper.

HeSmellsLikeSmoke 02-11-2010 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marty (Post 1177292)
I have cooked on my uds a couple of times. each time i got some water standing in the bottom of the drum.my smoke has a foul smell to it also using kingsford and some small chunks of hickory. smoke smells like burning paper.

Are you controlling the temperature with the bottom inlets while leaving the top vents fully open. If so, do the top vents have more opening area than the bottom inlets?

pigdog 02-11-2010 09:05 AM

What's it cost to sand blast a barrel? If it's not too much, might go that route on barrel #2.

Boshizzle 02-11-2010 09:09 AM

Call around and get some quotes. I'm going the sand blasting route, myself. I have found prices from $30.00 to $40.00 for sandblasting the inside and outside down to bare metal.

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-11-2010 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boshizzle (Post 1177469)
Call around and get some quotes. I'm going the sand blasting route, myself. I have found prices from $30.00 to $40.00 for sandblasting the inside and outside down to bare metal.


i was just asking about this on the previous page. I am going to sanblast mine as well to bare metal. After i get it back from the sandblaster what should i do immediately to keep the barrel in good condition leading up to my very first smoke on a UDS.

brotherbd 02-11-2010 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoviceBBQmovinUp (Post 1177550)
i was just asking about this on the previous page. I am going to sanblast mine as well to bare metal. After i get it back from the sandblaster what should i do immediately to keep the barrel in good condition leading up to my very first smoke on a UDS.

As an old sheet metal handler you have to do one of two things with raw bare steel or iron. You either have to paint it or oil it to keep it from rusting.

For a barrel, once you get to bare, paint it outside and grease or pam it well on the inside. You can heat it up later but it must have some kind of coating to keep it from rusting. It can stay unheated for a relatively long time with just a fat coating but eventually the fat will go rancid if not seasoned in, if that happens you just wash it out well with soap and water and rub id down again with the fat of your choice.

The science behind doing a seasoning burn is to carbonize the hydrocarbons in the fat to provide a tough almost non-stick layer baked onto the drum. The same way you would season a black iron skillet or Dutch oven.

The best seasoning is done in the 400 - 500 degree range but not much over or you too much of a burned smell and may flash fire the oil and not really get the desired effect. The pores in the metal are opened well up to accept the coating as it fills in the tiny little pockets that are created giving it something adhere well to.

Just my .02, hope it helps,

Smoke on!

Paul B 02-11-2010 12:45 PM

Keep it next to your bed!!! :biggrin::biggrin:

Just kidding......surface rust won't hurt any thing or you could spray it down with pam until your first time......

Paul B
SS UDS

Boshizzle 02-11-2010 12:58 PM

d0od: Looking good!

brotherdb: Great tips!

HeSmellsLikeSmoke 02-11-2010 01:22 PM

Very Simple Stainless UDS
 
First, my thanks to all the great contributions of the Brethren and Sistren in the UDS Thread. My goal was to use best ideas I saw to produce a very simple stainless UDS.

This has a Weber Performer Lid with the built-in thermostat and the stainless draft door from Big Green Egg.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...moke/SSUDS.jpg

Removable lid seal insert made from old Bar-B-Kettle bottom cut to leave 2" w/ Rutland stove gasket attached to it with high-temp silicon.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...bleLidSeal.jpg

(Trial run last night was a 14 lb brisket packer, cooked at 300 degrees until probe tender in 5 1/2 hours. Outdoor temperature was low 20's w/ snow showers. Cooked it Lockhart style with outstanding results -- thank you Funk for all the great info you have shared.)

I am going to add handles, but not much more. I like the simplicity.

Don Jeansonne 02-11-2010 01:30 PM

advise needed on first use of UDS
 
Thanks for all the great cooments and directions for building a UDS.

I just finished my UDS using the following plans:
- burned out barrel and wire brushed it clean.
- used flat top for lid with 2" bung hole for outlet vent.
- made 8"h x 13.5"d charcoal basket with 3/4" expanded metal and 13.5" Weber grate on 3.5" bolts for legs. Also have alum pizza pan for ash pan.
- Three 3/4" close pipe nipples for air inlets 2" off bottom. (2 with caps and one with 3/4" ball valve)
- 22.5" Weber meat grate set 24" above charcoal basket (27" off bottom). Have thermometer 1" below meat grate.

I used Kingsford briquets for my cooking trial run of pork spare ribs. I lit about 1/4 of a chimney and set it in a coffe can to the edge of the basket loaded with about 10 lbs of briquets.
With all inlets open, the UDS came up to 250F fairly easily for the run. Then I capped 2 inlets and tried to control with the valve only. I had to keep opening and capping one inlet to control between 230 to 270F. It didn't seem to be stable, either too hot or too cool. Then eventually it wanted to died out. So I opened the second small (about 1") bung hole in the top and the UDS seemed to draft better. I was able to get control at 230 - 250F with only the inlet valve.
The only problem (I think?) I have now is that the fire wants to choke out with ash build-up. I had to shake the drum too often it seemed (every hour) or open it and rack the coals around to drop some ash.
Overall I was please with the results but don't really see it being able to run 8 - 10 hrs almost unattended like I here some people are doing.

Any suggestions on helping my ash build up problem would be appreciated or any mods I need to make to the design that may help.

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-11-2010 02:35 PM

3 Attachment(s)
New to this and landed my first drum.

I had read 330+ pages and i am on information overload. This leads me to a few questions that i sill am not sure about because i cant remember what was said within the 330 pages of readings.

1. My top has two holes in it already one about 2 1/2 inches and one about 1 1/2 inches. Should i just use one of these for the top vent, or should i drill the 6 to 8 smaller holes in the top.Why do some drill all these holes? I am brand new to smoking so i would like to do the one that is easier to control temps/user friendly

2. People talk about expanded metal alot in this forum but i am stll not sure what is ment by this. (please dont bash me, i really am unsure)

stiffy 02-11-2010 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BadHorsieBBQ (Post 1177064)
@ Stiffy You don't think these drums are to thick for those knock out punches to cut. I thought that the drums were 18 gauge and the max for the knock out punches 10 gauge mild steel, aluminum, fiberglass and plastic. Did you use the knock out punches.

No hadn't used them, merely saw them, and thanks to NorcoRedneck I didn't buy them .... :rolleyes: Really thanks, woulda been a bad deal to find out they were all just a little too big for my needs, and would have been a dumb buy.

BadHorsieBBQ 02-11-2010 02:57 PM

Weather let up a little . I went out to shed to check for a 1" hole saw. All my hole saws were hammered, so I went to town and bought one of the rigid that norco had links to. I have all the parts now just waiting for weather to clear up so that I can start assembly.

BobBrisket 02-11-2010 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoviceBBQmovinUp (Post 1177906)
New to this and landed my first drum.

I had read 330+ pages and i am on information overload. This leads me to a few questions that i sill am not sure about because i cant remember what was said within the 330 pages of readings.

1. My top has two holes in it already one about 2 1/2 inches and one about 1 1/2 inches. Should i just use one of these for the top vent, or should i drill the 6 to 8 smaller holes in the top.Why do some drill all these holes? I am brand new to smoking so i would like to do the one that is easier to control temps/user friendly

2. People talk about expanded metal alot in this forum but i am stll not sure what is ment by this. (please dont bash me, i really am unsure)

Expando or Expanded metal. I had no clue what it was either when I joined up. At least not by name.
http://expandedmesh.cn/index.html
Lots of people use it to biuld the coal baskets. They buy a long sheet and then roll it and secure the ends with bolts to make the basket. Or like I did, cut it up into plates and weld them together.

Your drum has the bungs on the lid so you can just use those. Some guys get threaded pipe and screw it into the larger hole and make a smoke stack. Most that drill all those holes do so because the lid they have doesn't have the bungs so they create their own exhaust.

Nice drum.

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-11-2010 03:53 PM

Sweet thanks man, i am on my way to find some parts and get this thing started as soon as i get it sandblasted out.

dudz 02-11-2010 04:05 PM

what will you do about the smaller bung hole, it looks like plastic ?

BobBrisket 02-11-2010 04:14 PM

The smaller one usually has a steel plug in it as well. If it's threaded, you might want to take the lid to the store with you so that you can test fit the threaded pipe. If the smaller bung has no steel cap and is not threaded, you can always use that smaller hole to run therm wires through etc. And at worst maybe plug it with a cork if it doesn't have a steel plug and is not threaded.

Norcoredneck 02-11-2010 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dudz (Post 1178041)
what will you do about the smaller bung hole, it looks like plastic ?

He said bung hole He He!
http://blogs.sfweekly.com/thesnitch/Cornholio.gif


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