My gawd what a thread....but it had all I needed.
 

Took me a while to read it all but finally got through it and built one. Works great for such a simple system. Had a ECB and Walmart $99 sidebox both of which are junk. The sidebox takes so much tending and the ECB peters out after 5 hours. This thing seems like it will run for days on a basket of lump charcoal. I have about $40 invested and its worth every penny. Its great to be able to put meat on before bed and wake up in the morning to a delicious hunk of BBQ.
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.
Oh heres a pic because of course no pictures means it didn't happen.

Couple more pics of my UDS.
The pipes in the bottom are all have 4 1/4 in holes drilled in them. I figured this would support the basket and provide even air flow.

Nice job!, That certainly puts the "U" in UDS.

Interesting idea on the pipes! Are the outside ends regulated any way, w/ ball valves or something? Wondered if you wouldn't just get a cross draft, or if the heat rising pulls enough to draw in the air w/o that happening.... Neat idea though....

I was on the fence about the upper door. Your point is well taken. I like the simpler design. So I am not going to do the upper door. But I still want the lower door. For access to the basket. I plan to make the door air tight with grill felt, or oven door trim and a draw latch. Turns out draw latches are hard to find these days. This was the hardest part I had to find.

gmatt, I still agree with righteousdog about leaving off the door. Everyone I know that tried it were extremely disappointed. I have been using my drums since 07 and have never had to refuel during a cook. I knowingly have extra fuel in case a longer burn time is needed for those stubborn pieces of meat. But, go for it if that's what you want. Good luck bro.

+1, but go for it if you think you need it.

I say design a proper fire basket with proper distance underneath for ashes, and fill that sucker up! No need for an access door on a UDS.

Those pipes are 12" long 1/2" pipe nipples each has 4 1/4" holes cross drilled in it. 3 have pipe caps on them on 1 has a ball valve. Seems to work very well. In fact it may work too well. I am having trouble getting grill temps below 300. If i measure near the edge of the barrel I read 225-250 but over 300 right in the middle below the grill. The pipes fit very tight in the holes i drilled but i am going to try silicone around the holes to see if i am getting air leakage there. It may not be a big deal either way because it still makes great Q. :thumb:

Rust removal via electrolysis
 

Hey guys, I have adrum that i just finished the burnout, stripping, repainting, and drilling for the shelves and ports.

Unfortunatly i forgot one part.... I have some light surface rust on the inside of the drum i was planning to electricute off. But now with the holes in the drum i will have to seal, and the stainless parts exposed to the process i'm a bit concerned.

Do you think the electrolysis will strip the stainless parts? how long should i zap it for a light surface rust. deeply pitted parts usually get 24 hours. I am thinking of trying six to ten and see where i'm at.

Do i need a electrolite like baking soda, or does it work with clean water as well?

A grinder and my head inside a steel drum does not sound like a good day.

You're going to get some variation in temps, since the drum basket rest in the middle. That's where you want to judge it by, but you should be able to pull that down w/ the ball valve if you don't have any additional excess air leaks.

Other way to deal w/ the temps inside, is a diffuser.... This one has been debated often, but I for one have found it very useful for me. Does use a little more fuel typically, but it will help keep the middle of cooker a little more controllable. Next question is usually what to use, and again, various methods, but most commonly used is a large pizza pan with holes, slots, etc cut in it. Then there is SmkKing that makes us all jealous with this water jet cut diffusers.... :roll: LOL!! (Sorry dude, had to throw that one in there!) Look back in this thread a few pages, and I'm sure you'll see his and know it right away.... as well as others....

If you have your threaded nipples in place and there appears to be a loose fit, what are some ideas to seal this up??? Is it possible to sodder them in?? JB Weld?? Sealant??

not sure how much i'd even be concerned with it if it's "light".

if it bothers you then spray it down with pam or rub it with some veg oil, green scrubbie it, then paper towel it to a cleaner state. hit it with the oil again and season it.

i think i'd let oil and heat do the work first to see what i'm up against.

You COULD seal them in with some high-temp RTV (food safe, not sure what type to use). If they are very loose, welding would be the best. I would not use JB or solder.

Stig, what is RTV and where do I get it?? Sorry if that is a stupid question. I am not real mechanically inclined...Thanks for the info...