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-Rodney |
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I'm also about to complete my first UDS, for the top vent in my flat lid I've used the large 2"+ bung hole and fitted a chimney using rolled sheet metal and clamps to form a pipe, I was planning on having this fitted with approx 5" inserted down into the lid to trap smoke/heat in the top section right above the grill, is this advised to maintain a decent temp to prevent it from rising straight out the top ??? It's also easily adjustable so I can change the length below the lid or remove it completely. It extends about 12" above the lid so the wind/breeze shouldn't be a problem. I've made a top hat for it just to have on standby incase of heavy rain/bugs/high winds by using an large upturned metal food can fitted with chicken wire/mesh in it to hold it above the exit of the chimney stack so it allows the smoke to freely escape, I still can't post pictures or I'd show you what I've made so far. |
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Here are the pics. It's before I put the elbows on. I actually did a test run just like this without the elbows and it worked fine.
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The issue with the wind is that a high speed wind will cause more negative pressure which will cause the draft to be much stronger, and the smoker to run hotter. It gets even worse if the wind is blowing into the direction of an open intake vent. The 12" on top you already have there is a huge stack and it will burn a lot of fuel. When it's windy, it'll burn it even faster. It will still smoke well, but you will burn more fuel. I believe you'll have moisture inside by having it like this. I like it when my food has surrounding water vapor while cooking so I choose not to have such a strong draft. |
Thanks for the advice coewar, maybe I should shorten it to just a few inches, maybe 2 or 3 like in Rodneys avatar pic ?? and just have an inch or two below the lid ? To be honest wind won't be a problem very often so of no big concern, will it work better with none at all if I just leave the bung hole open, I can either leave the large 2" or the small 1" or both screw plugs out the lid as required? I'm fitting an adjustable top lid for the shortened stack so I can regulate the exhaust and open and close as I like or position it anywhere between open and closed to slow it down and limit its flow. Maybe I should cut it's length in half or more,
G |
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Who collects their own wood? How long do you season it? Do you cut it into chunks first?
I have access to a few trees...ok a lot if trees of all different flavors. . I figure if I take a branch or two a year I have free wood for life. |
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I harvest my own wood, thinning out small trees on our rural SC property. One tall skinny hickory netted about 1,000 chunks! I chop them into 'cookies' on a miter saw, then split in 2/3/4 depending upon the diameter. They dry much faster cut; I start using them in a month. I leave them out in the hot FL sun, which dries them even faster.
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I do notice that when building a UDS and the builder deviates from the tried and true K.I.S.S. method that this is when the trouble starts. I always advise if you possibly can to build a simple K.I.S.S. UDS and then build a second one if you want to experiment. Makes life and cooking so much more fun when your not fighting your cooker. I'm on # 11 and don't have any issues because I follow this.
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I harvest my own oak, hickory, pecan, cherry, peach, and pear. I typically cut it into 6" long pieces, let those sit for a year, then split them into fist-sized chunks. |
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