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-   -   Ugly Drum Smoker (https://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23436)

BobBrisket 02-11-2010 04:24 PM

Lastly, you lid will have a white, plastic seal all around the bottom of the lid that you will want to remove. That plastic seal can melt and burn up once you get the drum going. After it's removed, the lid will still sit just fine, you will just have metal to metal contact. I don't know if anyone has ever left it on and never had problems with it melting, but I removed it from both of my lids.
Can't wait to see it.

Dudz--I'm going to work on a baffle system like you had mentioned that will be suspended over the basket. I'm curious to see how it would work.

BobBrisket 02-11-2010 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norcoredneck (Post 1178056)


LMFAO!! Same thing went through my mind when I said bung hole!

I am Cornholio!!

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-11-2010 05:05 PM

Haha yea its a plastic cap on the metal plug, the larger one had a plastic cap on it as well. I ripped that one off cause i wanted to see what was under the plastic. The smaller one is the same, i just ran outside and ripped it off hahaha. I donnt know how i am going to get the metal cap off. that thing is SO stuck. if anyone knows a good way to unscrew it let me know.

Also I have a questions about the 3 vents i am going to be drilling into the bottom of the barrel. This is what i gathered and you can correct me if i am wrong. I need to drill a 1 inch hole and then i use a 3/4 inch pipe nipple and a 3/4 inch ball valve. Seems funny to me cause a 1 inch hole for something that is 3/4 inch. AGAIN !! i am new to this so please keep the bashing to a minimim.

HeSmellsLikeSmoke 02-11-2010 05:08 PM

A 3/4 " pipe is that size on the inside. Depending on the schedule (thickness) of pipe, the outside diameter is larger.

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-11-2010 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeSmellsLikeSmoke (Post 1178135)
A 3/4 " pipe is that size on the inside. Depending on the schedule (thickness) of pipe, the outside diameter is larger.

If there was a smiley that was a "punching self in face" here is where i would post it...that totally slipped my mind about the inside diameter:roll:

h20loo 02-11-2010 05:58 PM

Novice- look at HeSmellslikesmokes barrel above. That is the current trend in intakes and makes more sense for a bunch of reasons....

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-11-2010 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by h20loo (Post 1178232)
Novice- look at HeSmellslikesmokes barrel above. That is the current trend in intakes and makes more sense for a bunch of reasons....

Seems like to much cutting of the drum for me. I have limited tools and resources where i am currently living and i have no idea where to get a door like that guy. It just seems like to much work for something that really does not do that much more especially when i want to keep the cost down.

dudz 02-11-2010 07:10 PM

I knew i was in for it when i said bung hole...LMAO TP for my bunghole...bevis and butthead..

BobBrisket 02-11-2010 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoviceBBQmovinUp (Post 1178129)
Haha yea its a plastic cap on the metal plug, the larger one had a plastic cap on it as well. I ripped that one off cause i wanted to see what was under the plastic. The smaller one is the same, i just ran outside and ripped it off hahaha. I donnt know how i am going to get the metal cap off. that thing is SO stuck. if anyone knows a good way to unscrew it let me know.

Also I have a questions about the 3 vents i am going to be drilling into the bottom of the barrel. This is what i gathered and you can correct me if i am wrong. I need to drill a 1 inch hole and then i use a 3/4 inch pipe nipple and a 3/4 inch ball valve. Seems funny to me cause a 1 inch hole for something that is 3/4 inch. AGAIN !! i am new to this so please keep the bashing to a minimim.

The small plug should have flat edges, a cresent wrench should do the trick. I went with the patented JD vent tabs. I like em cause you can fine tune then a lot more that the pipe nipples and caps method. With the nipple and cap method you will need to either have the entire cap on or off as I understand it. With the JD tabs, they turn on a single screw and can be opened or closed as much as needed, very much like the vent on a Kettle lid.

Paul B 02-11-2010 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeSmellsLikeSmoke (Post 1177811)
First, my thanks to all the great contributions of the Brethren and Sistren in the UDS Thread. My goal was to use best ideas I saw to produce a very simple stainless UDS.

This has a Weber Performer Lid with the built-in thermostat and the stainless draft door from Big Green Egg.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...moke/SSUDS.jpg

Removable lid seal insert made from old Bar-B-Kettle bottom cut to leave 2" w/ Rutland stove gasket attached to it with high-temp silicon.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...bleLidSeal.jpg

(Trial run last night was a 14 lb brisket packer, cooked at 300 degrees until probe tender in 5 1/2 hours. Outdoor temperature was low 20's w/ snow showers. Cooked it Lockhart style with outstanding results -- thank you Funk for all the great info you have shared.)

I am going to add handles, but not much more. I like the simplicity.

Get ya a top like this......
http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/z...h_DSCF5466.jpg

Call and talk to a real person at www.arcticproducts.com and make yours look better!! :biggrin::biggrin:

Just sayin....

Paul B
SS UDS

dudz 02-11-2010 08:37 PM

cool top..

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-11-2010 09:11 PM

1 Attachment(s)
First i am not the owner of this picture and i hope that this person does not get mad. I took it from who i think is the owner Barbarian. I do not know anyone here and i am sure most of you know whos picture this is but since i am new i felt i needed to show respect.
Can someone tell me how i can do this thermometer idea. I have seen a few people have the temperature guage slide right into the side of the barrel but i have not undestood how they did it.
If you refer to a part can you please use the actuall name of the part so i can go look for it at the hardware store. I have a long stem thermometer and i want to be able to do something like this so i can take it in and out with ease. Please be detailed cause i am new to this. thanks everyone

Boshizzle 02-11-2010 09:17 PM

Check this post -

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...postcount=3510

Read, read, read, then read some more.

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-11-2010 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boshizzle (Post 1178602)
Check this post -

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...postcount=3510

Read, read, read, then read some more.

I have read, read, rea, and read some more, in fact i have read every page. i am sorry if i cant remember it all. Especially when the person says its "some kind of water line fitting". i was hoping someone could tell me a more specific name.

blackdog043 02-11-2010 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boshizzle (Post 1178602)
Check this post -

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...postcount=3510

Read, read, read, then read some more.

If the fitting does not have a nut just get a cap for the fitting and drill a hole so the probe will slide in. thats what I had to do.

Boshizzle 02-11-2010 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoviceBBQmovinUp (Post 1178618)
I have read, read, rea, and read some more, in fact i have read every page. i am sorry if i cant remember it all. Especially when the person says its "some kind of water line fitting". i was hoping someone could tell me a more specific name.

It's all good. It's a long thread and takes some time to track. I bookmark the stuff I find interesting.

What you need is a Watts A-192 Hose Barb Adapter with 1/4 barb x 1/4 mip.

Home Depot or Lowes sells them. You will also need a nut and a washer.

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-11-2010 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobBrisket (Post 1178458)
The small plug should have flat edges, a cresent wrench should do the trick. I went with the patented JD vent tabs. I like em cause you can fine tune then a lot more that the pipe nipples and caps method. With the nipple and cap method you will need to either have the entire cap on or off as I understand it. With the JD tabs, they turn on a single screw and can be opened or closed as much as needed, very much like the vent on a Kettle lid.

Whats a JD vent tab. Is that the actual name. Sounds like something that i want to try.

blackdog043 02-11-2010 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoviceBBQmovinUp (Post 1178618)
I have read, read, rea, and read some more, in fact i have read every page. i am sorry if i cant remember it all. Especially when the person says its "some kind of water line fitting". i was hoping someone could tell me a more specific name.

look at the bag it has the size of the fitting. go to the plumbing section and show or tell them the size you need. take the gauge with you to the store and tell them what you need to do. make sure the probe fits the hole in the fitting, it will be just a little bigger than the probe it will work fine.

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-11-2010 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boshizzle (Post 1178630)
It's all good. It's a long thread and takes some time to track. I bookmark the stuff I find interesting.

What you need is a Watts A-192 Hose Barb Adapter with 1/4 barb x 1/4 mip.

Home Depot or Lowes sells them. You will also need a nut and a washer.

sweet thank you, after about half way i started writing stuff down on paper so i can remember different numbers and such.

Ill go look for this part and then try and figure out what size hole i will need to drill in the barrel.

ChiefOsceola 02-11-2010 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoviceBBQmovinUp (Post 1178618)
I have read, read, rea, and read some more, in fact i have read every page. i am sorry if i cant remember it all. Especially when the person says its "some kind of water line fitting". i was hoping someone could tell me a more specific name.

Print this picture and tell the people @ HD or Lowes that you want one JUST LIKE IT.

(Just posting the pic that Boshizzle linked to)
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...PICT0002-9.jpg

blackdog043 02-11-2010 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoviceBBQmovinUp (Post 1178631)
Whats a JD vent tab. Is that the actual name. Sounds like something that i want to try.

Cover the intakes with magnets it will save you money and works great, you can always change it out later to the JD method. JD is a brethern here and he made a way to seal the intakes with a spring and metal. I foget the post number. I took a bunch of notes when I read this thread.

blackdog043 02-11-2010 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoviceBBQmovinUp (Post 1178631)
Whats a JD vent tab. Is that the actual name. Sounds like something that i want to try.

Here is the jd vent tab

http://uglydrumsmoker.blogspot.com/2...ng-loaded.html

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-11-2010 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackdog043 (Post 1178673)

thank you

BobBrisket 02-11-2010 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoviceBBQmovinUp (Post 1178631)
Whats a JD vent tab. Is that the actual name. Sounds like something that i want to try.

Here you go, Bro! Patented JD McGeeVent Tabs.........make sure you send him a check for using his idea.........This idea works like a charm, is true to the drum (cheap and easy and REALLY gets the job done.......kinda like this girl I dated in college for a long time--cheap and easy is a good thing!:-D) You can adjust the tab side to side to really fine tune the amount of air going into each one. Buy some decent gauge sheet metal or just scrounge some metal form somewhere. You will need tin snip pliers (these are not cheap), but maybe you can go to a sheet metal shop and ask them if they can cut a few tabs for you. I think a six pack would cover the cost at the right shop right around closing time on a Friday. Don't ask how I know. But it works. They are about 3" by 1".
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...t=JD+vent+tabs
It's best to drill or punch a small hole with a nail into the tab first (only the tab, not the drum). Otherwise the screw will spin that tab around as it goes in and can cut you or scratch up the drum. Drill in till its tight, don't strip it or it won't hold fer chit anymore and then you need to go to a bigger size screw.
All you need is a drill, self tapping metal screws and the socket.
Here's how I did it.....
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2712/...f22007b8_o.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/...d961f317_o.jpg
Easy Peasy!
To this day, my tabs are only drilled in tight, no welding, no JB Weld, no nothing and they have never loosened up and I have never had to tighten them.

BobBrisket 02-11-2010 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackdog043 (Post 1178673)


Great idea, but still a bit of overkill IMO. If you have the bench vise go for it, but then you need the springs, special bolts, etc, That set up will run you about 15-20 bucks once you get all the parts.
JD's---probably less than 5 if you have the sheet metal or any thin metal already on hand. Something you can bend with some needlenose pliers or even off the end of a counter top with a hammer, rubber mallet, or even a block of 2x4.

lunchbox 02-12-2010 03:18 AM

Ok guys, i have a quick question. I scored a cheap 22.5 inch kettle($5, booya). I am going to use as much of this baby as possible in the building of my UDS(Lid, cooking Grate, the bottom lip for a flange). My question is, can i use the bottom grate from the UDS for the Charcoal Box? Or will that be too small? I can score another grate, but if this would work, why waste it?

Norcoredneck 02-12-2010 03:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lunchbox (Post 1178842)
Ok guys, i have a quick question. I scored a cheap 22.5 inch kettle($5, booya). I am going to use as much of this baby as possible in the building of my UDS(Lid, cooking Grate, the bottom lip for a flange). My question is, can i use the bottom grate from the UDS for the Charcoal Box? Or will that be too small? I can score another grate, but if this would work, why waste it?

What diameter? Thing with using it is if it a cheapgrill then = cheap grate and will rust out quicker. But better than just tossing it.

BobBrisket 02-12-2010 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lunchbox (Post 1178842)
Ok guys, i have a quick question. I scored a cheap 22.5 inch kettle($5, booya). I am going to use as much of this baby as possible in the building of my UDS(Lid, cooking Grate, the bottom lip for a flange). My question is, can i use the bottom grate from the UDS for the Charcoal Box? Or will that be too small? I can score another grate, but if this would work, why waste it?

Weber kettle or a copy cat kettle? The Weber coal grate is perfect for the drum basket. Norco is spot on, if it's from a cheap knock off and not the quality of the Weber grate, then you may want to get something a little beefier so it last longer. 5 bones is a great score though for a donor kettle.

jcinadr 02-12-2010 09:42 AM

A steel grill is usually made of welded wire or rod stock. Expanded metal mesh is made w/o welding. It starts with rolled plate that is slit. The interupted, alternating, parrallel slits form a diamond shaped holes when the sheet is expanded (stretched wider). It is not necessarily perfectly flat, due to the expansion (one side of the diamond is low, the other high), but this can be pressed back out.

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-12-2010 10:49 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I was thinking now that i am basically have all the parts i need on a list and am going to attempt my first UDS. is there some kind of ratio or rule of thumb between the amount of intake you have compared to the size of exhaust

For example if you have 3 one inch holes for the intake, do you want to make sure you have the 2 inch bung hole open wide AND another 1 inch hole drilled out on top. (i know you can adjust the intakes with magnets but lets forget about that right now) i am just wondering if i should use just the one 2 inch bung hole or should i pop off the second one to help eliminate a hot spot and allow more exhaust out compared to whats comming in.

MattCom 02-12-2010 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcinadr (Post 1179017)
A steel grill is usually made of welded wire or rod stock. Expanded metal mesh is made w/o welding. It starts with rolled plate that is slit. The interupted, alternating, parrallel slits form a diamond shaped holes when the sheet is expanded (stretched wider). It is not necessarily perfectly flat, due to the expansion (one side of the diamond is low, the other high), but this can be pressed back out.


It's actually really neat how they make it... I spent my formative years in a metal shop... now we just send everything to CHINA!:mad:

BobBrisket 02-12-2010 11:01 AM

I run 3--1" intakes and have the 4 exhaust holes that are on the Weber lid. Never had a problem with raising or lowering temps or keeping it steady. 4 intakes really means one more hole to monitor and fine tune. (kinda sounds wrong). If you are only going to run the large bung as an exhaust, I'd say 3 should do it. You can always open up the smaller one for added exhaust.
3 or 4 will work, just more of a matter of preference I'd say.

pigdog 02-12-2010 12:47 PM

has anyone ever tried pit cock valves (I think that's what they're called) like on a radiator , for the intake valves? Do you think they'd work for valves 2 and 3 opposite the ball valve or in place of it? I don't know how large in diameter these come, but if big enough, it seems that they may be able to fine tune air flow.

lunchbox 02-12-2010 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobBrisket (Post 1178994)
Weber kettle or a copy cat kettle? The Weber coal grate is perfect for the drum basket. Norco is spot on, if it's from a cheap knock off and not the quality of the Weber grate, then you may want to get something a little beefier so it last longer. 5 bones is a great score though for a donor kettle.

It's a Weber.

BobBrisket 02-12-2010 01:19 PM

You are set to go my friend. Are you going to use the expanded metal for your coal basket?
5 bucks for a Weber is a steal.........

lunchbox 02-12-2010 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobBrisket (Post 1179375)
You are set to go my friend. Are you going to use the expanded metal for your coal basket?
5 bucks for a Weber is a steal.........

I was thinking about it, i need to re read this thread, as i don't have a welder handy, so i will need to use a bolt or something to connect the expanded metal to the grate.

BobBrisket 02-12-2010 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lunchbox (Post 1179419)
I was thinking about it, i need to re read this thread, as i don't have a welder handy, so i will need to use a bolt or something to connect the expanded metal to the grate.

Some thick bale wire ties all the way around will do to hold the two parts together if you aren't welding them together.
Just cut some lengths of wire about 3" inches long and twist tie with some pliers. The more you do the stronger the bond. It will work for quite a while. After a while the heat will take it's toll on the wire, but you can always re-tie with new wire.

Smokin'Ron 02-12-2010 02:21 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by lunchbox (Post 1179419)
I was thinking about it, i need to re read this thread, as i don't have a welder handy, so i will need to use a bolt or something to connect the expanded metal to the grate.

I had a 24x24 peice of expanded metal cut it in half and used 2 bolts, 2 small washer, 2 large washers and 2 nuts on each meet of the metal...I attached to the charcoal grate with ubolts.

lunchbox 02-12-2010 02:33 PM

Thanks guys.

BobBrisket 02-12-2010 02:37 PM

U bolts idea is way better. I likey!

Smokin'Ron 02-12-2010 02:53 PM

Oh, and notice the chain...If you go this route, don't forget to run the chain through the UBolts. I was using the chain and twisting it into the expanded metal as I pulled the basket out until it tipped on me the last time. Now the chain is pegged in the top bolts holding the expanded metal together (had to get longer bolts to do this) which puts it 90 degrees from where the chain is in the ubolt to create stability without adding more chain.

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-12-2010 03:03 PM

So, i have a barrel that is 33 inches high, if i save 3 inches at the bottom for airflow. then i have 30 inches to the lid. subtract 24 inches and that leaves me 6 inches to the very top of the lid. I want to stick with the flat top on this build. So anything thick like a shoulder will be pinched between the grate and the lid. Son Of A...

Also whats a good all round size for a fire box.. (i am thinking at 18.5 inch weber grate with 7 inch walls of expanded metal) this build will be for longer cooks like pork shoulders. yes i have read everything and i have several numbers written down but i cant decide and i dont have the funds or tools to experiment with different sizes. this is my first and its kinda a learning curve for now.

CmdCtrl 02-12-2010 03:22 PM

Hi Novice, welcome! My barrel was also a bit short but even with the flat top, 24 in clearance from firebox base and 6 in to lid I've had no problem with my pork butts. Take a look at my build and firebox - I did 11in high expanded metal with the 18in weber grate 3in from bottom. Hope that helps!

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-12-2010 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CmdCtrl (Post 1179560)
Hi Novice, welcome! My barrel was also a bit short but even with the flat top, 24 in clearance from firebox base and 6 in to lid I've had no problem with my pork butts. Take a look at my build and firebox - I did 11in high expanded metal with the 18in weber grate 3in from bottom. Hope that helps!


How do i see your build?

lunchbox 02-12-2010 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smokin'Ron (Post 1179510)
Oh, and notice the chain...If you go this route, don't forget to run the chain through the UBolts. I was using the chain and twisting it into the expanded metal as I pulled the basket out until it tipped on me the last time. Now the chain is pegged in the top bolts holding the expanded metal together (had to get longer bolts to do this) which puts it 90 degrees from where the chain is in the ubolt to create stability without adding more chain.

A great point and something i didn't notice. I will have to do that. What do you use to pull up the chain? Just an old wire hanger?(that's what i plan on using.)

Smokin'Ron 02-12-2010 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lunchbox (Post 1179611)
A great point and something i didn't notice. I will have to do that. What do you use to pull up the chain? Just an old wire hanger?(that's what i plan on using.)

Since I don't pull it out until it's cool, I just lay it on top of the basket when cooking and grab it with my gloves on to clean it out.

I'm kinda short and my initial thought was to use my hook from the turkey fryer, but haven't had to yet. I'd think (don't know for sure) it would be a bit heavy for a wire hanger.

lunchbox 02-12-2010 05:19 PM

Thanks man. I'll give it a try this weekend when i start building.

CmdCtrl 02-12-2010 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoviceBBQmovinUp (Post 1179571)
How do i see your build?

goto post 4913 :-)
enjoy!

NoviceBBQmovinUp 02-12-2010 06:58 PM

1 Attachment(s)
What do you guys think of this idea. if it has already been posted please forgive me. There is 330+ pages on here and i cant remember all that i read hahah.

My UDS is kinda short and i have to have a flat top lid. (no extra cash right now for a webber top). Anyways since my barrel is short i only have about 20 inches between the bottom of the fire basket and my one grate. This give me about 7 inches for my pork butts.
If i put a pizza stone that i have laying around in between the grate and the fire box will this help. My Main concern is i really want a nice bark to my meat and i dont want to rapid cook it being really close to the heat source but i hear so much about 24 inch clearance

JD McGee 02-12-2010 09:29 PM

Bob Brisket brought to my attention that a few of my pics of my UDS slide air control thingy were missing. Here are a few pics of the first one I did...a new and improved version is at the sheet metal shop being manufactured as I type...:cool:

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/IMG_6014.jpg

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/IMG_6019.jpg

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/IMG_6020.jpg

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/IMG_6021.jpg

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/IMG_7233.jpg

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/IMG_6166.jpg

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/IMG_6167.jpg

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/IMG_6168.jpg

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/IMG_6255.jpg

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/IMG_6256.jpg

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/IMG_6257.jpg

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/IMG_6274.jpg

Hope it helps...feel free to PM me if you have any questions...:mrgreen:

JD


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