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If Im reading 225 at the side, my precious brisket likely was cooking at 275 or more for all those hours. That would likely explain what went wrong. A Maverick digital over thermometer is the ticket? Is that the best brand for such a purpose? Also, should I drill another hole at grate level for this purpose, or should I feed it in through the exhaust vent? |
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I drill two holes in my UDS's, a lower one for the center probe entry and the upper for the meat. I then in install some electrical clamp connectors. Not a sure tight seal but good enough to allow probe insertion and removal fairly easily. I fabricated a stand that holds the transmitter(s) and placed velcro on the bracket and on the back of the transmitter. http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/5...elocations.jpg |
Just because I posted it in another thread here it is again. It now has a Guinness beer tap installed on the stainless exhaust....
http://i38.tinypic.com/6tifwk.jpg |
DId a second seasoning burn while I wait for my Charbroil hinged lid. Used Royal Oak Steak House Lump this time, and has no to the tiniest whiff of ammonia this time. MUCH better than last night's burn-in. Whew. Once I get that dome, I can get a handle on temps. Since my lid had no bung hole, I am propping the lid open a crack, leaving to many leaks of exhaust.
I plan to paint the charbroil lid a Wisconsin Badgers red. Any ideas for paint? |
High temp engine paint is what most people use. You can get it at auto part stores
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My next drum and cooker will be done in Hammerite.
http://www.hammerite.co.uk/ I'm thinking gold http://www.icipaints.co.uk/colours/r...ed_colours.jsp http://washford.scene7.com/is/image/Washford/326991 It's a close to the yellow I want as they can get. |
I just found this in CL - i have nothing to do with this guy, but may help someone looking to start with an UDS project - myself, i rather buy new, but that's me. Anyway, here is the link, this is in austin: http://austin.craigslist.org/mat/2075739107.html
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Anyway, was expecting about 3 hours at 250. Set it up (including a meat probe) and left the house for 2 hrs. Came back to turkey jerky (poor bird was 205 internal - target was 160). That said, everything was cooking fast this weekend. (temps were not off (I have redundant temp gauges), just reciepies were different. At least the Burgers were somewhat of a success (overcooked them too - but the recipe was great, and I don't mind if I can duplicate a quick cook on them). Looks like turkey stew is now on the menu. Ah, but next time... |
SmokerKing:
I'm glad to see you're perfecting UDS diffuser technology. I just had another idea to achieve more even temperatures. It is turbulence. Your diffuser probably causes some turbulence but I was thinking about inducing turbulence mechanically with a small blower about half way down. Something like this maybe. |
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SmokerKing,
If this works, you may actually end up with a business venture. I, foe one, do not have access to the tools necessary to create this disc. Put me down for one and tell me the cost. |
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I'm no braniac but when it comes to heat and thermal issues, I'm a noob. I think the turbulence could be inducted above the diffuser and several inches below the meat. Create a "swirling" convection effect as the heat rises and is exhausted. :thumb: |
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I place a second rack about 6" below the top meat rack and attach one digital probe dead center of that second rack, it does not touch the grate. I place the second probe in the meat. I read both during the cook and view the analog just for kicks. Personally, I don't see a reason to even have the 2.5" analog probes on the side except to see if they ever balance to the digitals, and a back up should the digitals fail. I'm thinking on raising my diffuser closer to the meat. That way, the heat has less distance to collapse again to the center of the drum before being exhausted in the center of my cone top. I'm thinking that having multiple exhaust ports in the UDS lid and using a diffuser might provide a better balanced heat through the drum and meat. What do I know? just experimenting. :clap2: |
Turkey Fryer Thermo
2 Attachment(s)
I had the same issues/concerns originally with reading temps on the outer wall of the UDS so I went to a turkey fryer around 14+ inches. It literally ends at the center of the barrel and about 1/2 inch below my bottom grate. I JB welded an electrical coupling that has the perfect clearance for the thermo and a cap when not in use. Try it out.Attachment 47751Attachment 47752
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