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I stopped by Big Lots on my way from a apointment this morning and bought one too.
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2nd UDS
I finally got around to building my 2nd UDS and am doing a seasoning run tonight. Sorry for the lack of pics on the build (too much beer mod:roll:) I went with the k.i.s.s. build, the only mods made were the big belly mod, and a set of wheels. My question is its been going roughly 1 1/2 hours, and only reads 210* in the side gauge. I have one nipple, and my ball valve wide open, and am using the large bung for exhaust. Shouldnt my temps be higher? I was hoping for better control with this one, as my other one has only one 2 1/4" intake, and one 2 3/4" exhaust. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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Any thoughts on the CharBroil Sure2Burn firestarter packets?Just scored a few, and I'l like to know how effective they are before I decide to use them with a cook.
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You had it right the first time LOL!! I like the large hole intake as it is easy to empty the ashes, you can reach in and give the basket a shake and you can quickly ramp up the temps for pizza. |
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try a pipe reducer bushing
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Would oak fire wood be good enough to burn my barrel out with. I am having trouble locating pallets for the task.
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Porcine Pirate " Pigs are our Tasty Friends " |
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Good I have free access to quite large stash oak and mesquite. i will go and retrieve some on my way to work and do my burn tomorrow night.
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Haven't been around in a while, but I've got my second cook going right now. Two butts and a brisket over hickory with mesquite chips.
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I have experimented with the high intake and found two things. Every 90 bend and length of pipe requires more diameter to achieve the same airflow at the bottom of the barrel. While not scientific in my approach I found that a 1" intake hole flowed the same as an extended 1 1/2" intake with a 90 and 20" of pipe. The 2nd thing I found was that the closer I raised the intake opening to the top edge(lid) of the barrel, the more difficult it was to control the temp or make minor adjustments. Also, I found that gusting breezes caused me heartburn. A finickety barrel is no fun. From all of my experimenting I now go with a 2" ID exhaust and a 2" intake with my favorite control being the Primo or BGE slider style system. The next one I do will be a BGE slide turned 90 degrees and attach a control cable (lawnmower throttle) to the top of the barrel ala fat man mode. The guys with their little pipes hanging out around the barrel are novice builders who have something that may work but they don't know why. It was interesting to see Myrons intake on his trash can and I'm sure this will catch on like his muff tins. The reason he has this single intake is because it works and he has had the boys experiment to find this. Back to work LOL... |
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I just finished building a new charcoal basket from 3/4" x #9 expanded metal .
The grate is an 18 1/2" WSM charcoal grate with three 1 1/2" x 1/2 bolt legs. Neither basket is attached. They both sit on the grate between the bolts and the outer ring. For shorter cooks I use the 4 3/4" high charcoal ring from the WSM. http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/4WSMRing.jpg For longer cooks I will use the 8 1/4" high expanded metal version. http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...ke/4Basket.jpg The original post of the build is #5041 For anyone interested there is also separate thread on this build http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=78156 |
New to the build and i am about 80% done with gathering up all the parts i need. But have a few problems. Yes i have read the entire thread.
1. I bought a long stem thermometer from WalMart and tested the accuracy. its way off. So i know alot of you like a particular long stem thermometer can someone let me know where i can get one, i live in AZ so it might have to be an online order. 2. I am going to do the magnet route, i want to drill three holes, where one will be a ball valve, for the two holes that will be covered by magnets i cant decide between 1 inch holes or 3/4 holes. Hey thanks in advance everyone. Ill be posting pictures as soon as i get all my supplies and all questions i need answered. |
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I bought my thermometer off of Amazon, I forget what the price was, but it's an actual barbeque thermometer. Works great. I'd probably go with the 3/4 inch holes. When installing the nipples I used one inch nipples, which provides three-quarter inch intake. Happy smoking! |
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http://www.teltru.com/s-44-food-service.aspx |
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I can get some brand new 55 gallon drums, that have a removable lid for 40 bucks. How much more would it cost to build my own??
http://images.craigslist.org/3n83k03...6ab54a1ed1.jpg |
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Depends. When I built mine, I had to buy all the tools (hole saw, various drill bits and whatnot). It also depends on whether or not you're cannibalizing other parts (I also bought the grates) or can get things either cheaply or free.. The hardware itself? A lot also depends on what design you'll be using. Some make the holes and use magnets, others use nipples, caps, and a ball-valve. |
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http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac...604438483.html |
And here is a pic of my new drum. this is the only pic as when assembly was done i used the too much beer mod:roll:
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Nice UDS build, dubster!
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Lovely! Uh, I mean UGLY!
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So where can i find some expanded metal that is not 24x12 or 24x24 like at the lowes and HD by my house. Is there a place i can get to cut me a piece that is about 8x45. please chime in and tell me how you all got your larger pieces of expanded metal and what guage you picked that was not to weak but was still able to bend it into a circle. thanks!!!
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Novice, check out one of your local metal fabrication shops. They usually have 6 to 8 inch x 48 inch cut offs that are real cheap and the perfect length. And, they are much much heavier metal. I get them around here for free to maybe $6.00. If you get it free, take them a few fatties for lunch break one day and then the cut offs will always be free.
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If you cut it 8 1/4" wide you will be right in the middle of the joint between the diamonds so you won't end up with unclosed diamonds and therefore ragged edges. |
Lowe's or HD around here do not carry expanded metal. I was able to get mine from a steel mill locally. They must get a lot of calls, because when you walk in to their sales office, there is a big stack of precut expanded steel labeled for BBQ use:-D
I was able to easily cut mine with an angle grinder and appropriate disc. I found that expanded metal is much easier to bend when it is 60* outside vs when it is 30* outside. Which suggests that if you run a hair dryer over the expanded metal for a little bit, it might be a little easier to bend. |
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For those who can't get it locally, you can buy 12" x 48" sections if expanded metal from Yale Steel.
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Schweet lookin UDS's Pit boss. So, who's the lucky recipient of the other one?
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Man this thread is loooong, Just read the first 50 pages and still have over 300 to go!!
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I'm thinking the world was ready for a homemade pit that could be made on the cheap and works. Three quarters of a million hits sure proves it.
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Any questions let me know kris |
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Stepheneleven, I sent you a private message but didn't hear back from you. If you're even remotely considering spending $150.00 on a drum, please check your PMs and or look at this thread... http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=78492 The guy I get my drums from is about midway between Milwaukee and Madison. $15.00 each non-lined, smooth sided, one use 55 gallon drum, with lid and clamp ring. Anyone local to northern IL or Wisconsin feel free to PM for contact info. |
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Charcoal Basket building without SS legs
Hey Norco,
(or anyone else that may have comparison experience, it's just that Norco has made so dang many!) Thanks for the tips and the video on the charcoal basket, but I got another question for ya. I see that you have overlap when creating you basket and all you have to do is roll and bolt or weld bottom grate and side seam. Here's the question, Have you ever made the basket taller so that the grate could be inside 2 1/2" to 3" off the bottom and then welded, wired or SS zip tied into place? Seems you could save the cost of the SS nuts, bolts and washers (about $8-10 here in Dallas, TX area). I know there would be a little more cost per expanded metal piece 'cause you'd be doing something like 11 or 12 in. vs. 8 but that SS stuff aint cheap. Just wondering if you've tried it that way and decided that nuts and bolts are the better way to go. brotherbd |
brotherbd that has been done many times and is reported to work well.
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UDS Vent III...
Here's my latest and greatest sliding air vent design...:cool: I also plan to use it on my SouthPaw Smoker (in the design stages)...
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...s/P1010707.jpg http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...s/P1010705.jpg http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/u...s/P1010706.jpg |
JD, that looks very good.
Have you thought of making the piece with the holes in it slide too -- sorta like the BGE spark screen. That would let you fully open it to clean out ashes and tap the fire basket. Just a thought.:biggrin: |
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Nice. I used the BGE vent on one of my drums but I like the looks of this. Planning on another build over the summer and I will copy this if you don't mind.
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Holy smoke-Looks good JD. I made a batch of BGE style vents on Thursday and will try them next week. That makes so much more sense then having little taps and nipples hanging off a barrel. Your design will add some bling to the lowly UDS!! What gauge did you use?
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