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-   -   Ugly Drum Smoker (https://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23436)

rolfejr 04-06-2012 04:04 PM

UDS # 2 - The KISS Version
 
No it's not the Gene Simmons Kiss!

It's the "Keep It Simple Stupid!" Drum Smoker

A simple sturdy build to make it last under heavy use

Heavy Duty, thick wall drum
Two coats Rust -Oleum High heat shot with an automotive HVLP gun
Powdercoat gate handles from HD
All fasteners are socket head stainless steel, with fender washers and nylock nuts, yes they can stand the heat.
Pipe fittings are tack welded on the inside
Standard charcoal basket

A cooking machine for the BBQ Comp's.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z...0/IMG_2186.JPG

nucornhusker 04-06-2012 10:23 PM

Hello guys. I have acquired a food grade drum, and I'm going to start my UDS build. I want to get everything planned out before I get it sandblasted. I'm about 100 something rather pages into this thread and my eyes are crossed, so I'm sorry if this was covered.

My drum has a 2" bung in the bottom that fits 2" threaded pipe perfectly. Is it okay to use one 2" intake and one 2" exhaust for these? That would save me a ton of fabrication, cost and time if it does.

Thank you, and I have enjoyed the 1/6th of the thread I have read so far. Good stuff guys!

BigG_UK 04-07-2012 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nucornhusker (Post 2006510)
Hello guys. I have acquired a food grade drum, and I'm going to start my UDS build. I want to get everything planned out before I get it sandblasted. I'm about 100 something rather pages into this thread and my eyes are crossed, so I'm sorry if this was covered.

My drum has a 2" bung in the bottom that fits 2" threaded pipe perfectly. Is it okay to use one 2" intake and one 2" exhaust for these? That would save me a ton of fabrication, cost and time if it does.

Thank you, and I have enjoyed the 1/6th of the thread I have read so far. Good stuff guys!

In My experience and my opinion, yes just one 2" vent/exhaust should work fine as long as you can control the intake with a valve of some kind.

G

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...100_3894-1.jpg

Dr_KY 04-07-2012 02:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigG_UK (Post 2006612)
In My experience and my opinion, yes just one 2" vent/exhaust should work fine as long as you can control the intake with a valve of some kind.

G

Yup mine has been running this way for a few years now using one ball valve as an intake and one 3/4 " unobstructed on the other side. Never had any trouble holding temps.

-HAZARD- 04-07-2012 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nucornhusker (Post 2006510)
Is it okay to use one 2" intake and one 2" exhaust for these?


He's asking about using a single 2" intake as well.....

nucornhusker 04-07-2012 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by -HAZARD- (Post 2006663)
He's asking about using a single 2" intake as well.....

Yes, correct. One single 2" intake and a single 2" exhaust. Will that work?

Dr_KY 04-07-2012 07:41 AM

If you keep the intake ramped down then yes. 2" is huge for an intake.

nucornhusker 04-07-2012 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr_KY (Post 2006695)
If you keep the intake ramped down then yes. 2" is huge for an intake.

Maybe I will still use the 2" bung, but funnel down the intake to 1 1/2".

Thank you.

rdog157h 04-08-2012 12:02 AM

Why cut holes and add nipples?
 
I understand the ball valve but why cut holes and then cap them with nipples and a cap?

Dr_KY 04-08-2012 01:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdog157h (Post 2007598)
I understand the ball valve but why cut holes and then cap them with nipples and a cap?

To keep the weather out when not in use plus it helps shut down the drum at the end of the cook. Some find that if temps get away or don't come up as well adding or removing caps solves the issue.

pwa 04-08-2012 03:21 AM

Dr KY hit it right on the head, if the ball valve wide open doesn't give you enough heat then take a cap off and adjust the ball valve if you still need more air take the last cap off. When your done cap every thing off and close the ball valve to kill the fire.

pwa

jcinadr 04-09-2012 09:47 AM

plugs and caps are used for 2 reasons. 1) they are cheaper than ball valves. 2) by removing caps, you get pretty much complete control of air from 0-3 open.

There is no real reason for the added cost of 3 ball valves when 1 ball valve and 2 caps can do the same thing. Depending on your desired temp, you will often start all open, then usually cook with just the valve (both caps closed). If you have damp charcoal or want more heat, you can always remove a cap and get 1+ the valve open.

While I never had a huge problem with an uneven burn using 2 caps and a valve - if you want to go with one huge intake, you might want a deflector. w/o a deflector my guru did have an uneven burn.

nucornhusker 04-10-2012 11:42 AM

^^^^^A deflecter between the charcoal and the food I assume? Or.......

Fornia 04-11-2012 08:36 AM

Guru/Stoker & Temp probe eyelet inquiry
 
Hi guys, looked through this thread since we built our 2 drums for Competitons.

But....I can't seem to find specific info. on how folks using their drum with a Guru. I'm an egghead, and understand how the guru works, but wasn't sure of the recommendations for using one with a drum. As we're using these for Competiton, we'd like to use a guru to help with peace of mind through the night (while also getting some sleep!). I also don't see anything specific on Guru's site, regarding a recommendation/adapter plate for use with a drum.

Lastly....any updated products that work well as 'eyelets' for inserting temp probes into the side of the drum? We're currently using the 12" turkey fryer temp probe...but would like to make things nicer for adding temp/food probes.

Thanks for any and all input!

nucornhusker 04-11-2012 08:50 AM

http://www.thebbqguru.com/products/3...d-Adaptor.html

http://www.thebbqguru.com/pages/Reco...-Packages.html
Scroll down to find "Ugly drum smoker".


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