You need the air vents cut first. More air equals hotter fire.

1999

Post #2000(for me anyway)

Cheater, might as well have used pellets.

After looking at allot of picture of different setups I gather that there is no right and wrong way really to build your UDS. With that said I just have a couple question, first of all the tubes with the nipple bolts at the bottom. Is that for air that can be added or removed as need. The valves with levers do they do the same purpose? How many holes should I start with in the lid? or would it be better to use a lid from a grill with a damper like round plate.

No right or wrong way but some work better than others. I like 3-3/4" pipe nipples. 2 with caps, 1 with ball valve. The bottom holes are air intake. First thing to remember is that the drum lid sealing and controlling the air intake is what makes them work so well. You can just make 3 1" holes and use sheet magnets to cover the holes to adjust air as some have done. The flat lids I use have 8 1/2" evenly spaced holes. The Weder type lids do give a hot spot but allow room for a second rack that is a real squeeze with a flat lid. I have a feeling you have not read the entire UDS thread. lot's of trial and error can be avoided if you read it.

I guess I don't understand how a ball valve works I thought it had to have pressure for it to open and close....

you said you like 3-3/4" pipe nipples. 2 with caps, so there's really no point to the other 2 holes?

also is there allot of maintenance required as fasr as keeping the heat at a stable level...
Do you have to be watching it the whole cook or can do other stuff close by?

My first cook I got it up to temp and it went unattended for 18 hours +.
I use only three holes covered with flexible magnets with the idea I would install a ball valve later. Never saw the need. My drum cost me $40 CND(mostly for the SS hardware and paint)

http://www.majhost.com/gallery/MK-Ul.../drumdone4.jpg

Chavo, start at page one and read for a few days. It answers all your questions, and then some. READ !!!!

This thread has answers to all your questions, I'd suggest starting at the beginning and taking notes. You'll be glad you did.

I'm beginning to wonder if we need to require that this thread be read in completion before accepting a new member.... EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO KNOW ABOUT A UDS AND MORE IS WITHIN THIS HOLY GRAIL. Seriously, we've all read it when we built our first UDS. These things are simple and bullet proof if you follow the directions as experienced by other members. Once you get the idea of how they work, then you can get all "Macguyver on its ass". IMHO thats where the real fun is. In order to make a better mousetrap, you have to know how the old one worked.

Hell, even I haven't read this whole thing.:biggrin:

This is still one of my favorite pictures in this thread...

Lordy, I think I've managed to alienate a few neighbors with my UDS build... I've got today off and decided what the hell, I'll break in my el-cheapo angle grinder by cleaning out my drum since I live outside the city and it's getting on in the day..

I commence to grindin', took me between an hour and an hour and a half to get 1/3 of the way done. So as I stand up for a stretch and a look around I peel my dust mask, ear plugs and ear muffs off and what do I see? A retired neighbor lady standing in her drive way ~100ft away, staring at me and obviously full of piss and vinegar..

Well, 1/3 of the way is as good a point as any to call it a day.

I hope y'all will be kind enough to keep me in cigarette money (or at least interesting letters) once the law shows up!

Know what you mean...full of piss and vinegar...I think I did the same to my neighbors when cleaning my drum out, and I live in the city!
They'll get over it when you show up at their door with some good que from the drum. Then they'll be grinding theirs out.
Just keep cleaning that sucker out and get on to the cooking.

Haha, I appreciate the encouragement, but I'm going to give the crazy old lady a break ... today anyway. She's now my official excuse to slack off.

Me, feed her? Oh the stories I could tell about living across the street from that woman! Then again I guess she could say the same thing about me, but at least I am no peeping tom! (What's the preferred nomenclature for a female peeping tom?)

If'n it weren't for ...odd neighbors, I'd have none 'tall.

Gotta love your neighbors, anything that happens in our yard is 'normal' to them... from the noise of cutting the top out of a 15 gallon beer keg (to make a brewing kettle), to whack and smash guys in armor beating up on each other (we do medieval reenacting), to having a yard full of tents from the 11-14th centuries (reenacting thing again), to the light of 10 ft tall propane torches lighting up the back yard because we have a house full of people over for the weekend, to the mouthwatering smells coming from our smokers... they more or less just throw up a hand and yell 'hey, what's up today?'

If we have to grind out the liner in a drum, it'll just be "another day in the neighborhood." :)

I was talking to my buddy last night and when I mentioned that I needed to pick up a few new knotted wire brushes for my grinder he produced a new in package 40 grit 4.5" 'Norton Zirconia Abrasive Flap Disc'.

Looks like it's made of resin backed fiber and some sort of glue binding the zirconia abrasive media to the flaps.

Anybody think it'd be a hazard to use this inside a smoker?

Nahh I would just get aftr it ad see what happens.

Damn, that thing is worth it's weight in gold. 40 grit at a few thousand RPM will get /something/ done in a hurry.

I'm 95% done with the drum liner, just need to pick up one of those wire wheels that's made up of the single strands of wire so I can get into the tight cracks around the bottom rim.

Then all I've got to do is clean the drum lid, double check the inside of the drum for missed spots and I'm ready to make a charcoal ring, ash pan and mount the grates and thermometer.

You guys have been a huge help to me, thanks a lot!

That's what I'm talkin bout!

Thanks
 

I've just completed my first UDS build. Pics to follow. I have to admit, I read the first 50 pages of the thread, took copious notes and then read the redneck UDS thread too. I had enough information and measurements floating around in my head that I almost overthought how simple this really is to put together.

Unlike many Brothers out there, I had none of the required materials and invested in new stainless hardware, casters, grills, wire mesh, barrel, handles, ball cock valve, spiced wine thermometer, and step drill.

Having said that, for the $160 I spent, I could not be more proud, nor could I have bought a new BBQ pit, of the quality for anywhere close to that price. I am very particular and have the satisfaction in knowing that this thing is well built and will no doubt outlast me.....

I built a "twin" for my golfing buddy who is thinking of getting into BBQing. I've had a NB Bandera, Custom offset and a WSM and this UDS has the best qualities of each. Ease of use, quality of result and it's a great conversaton piece!

Thanks to all the Brothers out there who added to the UDS thread and especially for the detailed information and priceless pictures.

Many Thanks!

Check out this guys paint job...pretty slick! There's some pretty good pron pics as well...he might be a Brethren...or should be. Here's a link to the sales ad on craig's list.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/999732109.html

http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/2b307145.jpg

Here's a link to the sales ad on craig's list.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/999732109.html

I am building a new UDS and have a question. The one I built last year I built a new lid for and did not mess with cleaning out the foam seal around the inside lip of the drum lid. So what is the best way to get that sticky stuff outta there?

I suggest you go back and read this entire thread, your answer is there. :twisted:

Thanks bubba, did that last year but gettin' old and cannot recall everything or the stuff I did not use.

J/K Jerry, mine usually come out clean but i have taken a small torch and burned the glue off one. :biggrin:

Thanks bubba, was worried about using the weed burner and warping the lid.

This lid left quite a bit of the sticky chit behind when I scraped out the foam seal.

WD-40, toothbrush wire brush followed by strong tide/warm water mix wash.

you forgot to do that to mine, eh :biggrin:

Don't forget to line dry and steam press! :biggrin:

Bubba sorry. :roll:

Last minute mod.

ain't nuthin bob marley the weed burner won't fix :biggrin:

Thanks Norco, will give that a shot tomorrow then send out for the steam pressing that Bubba recommends.

Very weird visual here...I'm picturing Bob firing up his "weed" with a "weed" burner...:twisted:

FYI For all of you Sacramento Area Folks
 

I just spotted this on craigslist in Sacramento, CA..
barrels for $10 delivered.
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/grd/1002892310.html
-RB

Resize?
 

Well I've had a few trial runs with the UDS with pretty good results. I'm not sure about the resizing thing, so this post is mostly to see if it worked. If it does I'll post more

Hi all,
Its been a couple months since i read the ENTIRE thread and i just scored my barrels to build 2 UDS's. Unfortunately, i forgot some of it...but i do have the notes i took. Does this look good to you guys:

- use 1" hole saw or harbor freight step bit with 3in1 oil for 3/4 pipe thread holes (2" up from bottom?)

- go with (3) 3/4 close nipples, 1 capped and 2 3/4 ball valves (how long should the nipples be)?

- make wallyworld ash pan from cheap bbq, mount either a rod or good hook system to lift it out easily

- expando + 18.5 charcoal grate + bolts for legs, use ss zip ties or rebar wire to secure it together (i dont have welder)

Also i was wondering, is there a "best of" list for designs/build guides for each part? There are so many pics and ideas in this thread that its hard to flush out which ones are the solid ones that i should copy....for the lid/flu, charcoal basket, ash pan, etc?

Thanks all,
JD

I believe this is the Link you need to look at to answer all your questions..
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...hlight=redneck

Yall be nice now!
 

I know I am going to take a beating about these pictures,but here it goes. I know they are supposed to be ugly,OK so I got a little carried away. Though Im sure there are some football fans on here that think the LSU UDS is plenty ugly. I would like to thank everyone for all their post and help on the UDS. I have never smoked meat so easy and so good in my life. Now let the comments start!!
Thanks, la smoker

The tag 'mod' is spiffy... interesting way to decorate... :) Now I have a use for all my old car tags... :)

la, just a thought. The intake plugs look like cast from the pics. They will rust like a big dog in short order. May want to get some brass plugs. Just a thought! Nice looking smokers BTW!!

Remember the Tide warm water deal. Cleans oil residue real well.

Looks cool but bet you won't have enough exhaust. Adapt some fishtails on the Harley Drum using auto header adapters.

I have got through about 50 pages of this thread. A lot of good information in here. I have a 30G barrel laying around. My question is, will this work OK for a UDS? I know it will be smaller and might need a water pan. My plan is to use this for a trial run before I find a 55g drum. Any thoughts?

Mike

Guys - I am looking for some details on the intake pipe nipples. How long should they be? 1" long close nipples? Do they need to be stainless? I am not sure what they have over at home deeps, but i doubt its stainless...

Since i am not welding, just to make sure i got this right....I can thread in the 3/4" pipe nipple and on the inside i can lock it down with a conduit nut and same on the outside? I doubt the threading of the ball valve will thread all the way down to the barrel.

Thanks all,
JD

I think DR.Ky made his first from a 30Gal.
1" length will do fine, Black Pipe nipples are what they're called and you can use a single conduit nut on the inside and it will work fine.....

JD, I don't weld either and I use 3/4" close nipples. Get a 1 9/32" Shower Valve Socket Wrench from the plumbing department to tighten the conduit nuts.

I thread a conduit nut with the points facing out as far as it will go on the close nipple, then thread it through the drum from the inside and put another conduit nut on the outside with the points facing in so they grab the drum and the nut on the inside grabs the drum. Doing it this way the inside one did not move and was pulled towards the drum so I was able to do it by myself since it is rather hard to reach both conduit nuts by yourself.

I have also done this with my exhaust, using a 2"x4" black pipe with two conduit nuts.

The shower valve socket is the way to go for the 3/4" pipe, for the exhaust I use the same procedure, but since you can handle both sides of the lid pliers work just fine.