Someone asked about the way I made the cut-off kettle bottom fit into my drum so that it would be removable. I left 2" below the rim.

The original post of the drum is back at #5041

I used a 1/2" round Rutland stove gasket at the top with a 1/4" x3/4" Rutland gasket right under it. The point is to keep the rim high enough to get the Performer Lid to not touch the barrel itself so you get a good seal.

My one concern is that water might get into the drum in a rain.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...oke/Gasket.jpg

I used an abrasive blade in a skill saw to cut the 2" x 4 " hole. Very easy to do. The large opening gives easy access to clean out ashes and to tap the bottom of the ash grate as an added bonus.

The stainless draft door, which has a spark screen, only cost $36 from my local BGE Dealer.

Wow!Maybe you could have your agent review this and get back to you.

You don't have to cut a rectangle shaped hole. You can drill a few large round holes and install the door over them to get the same result.

http://users.umw.edu/~jhaynes/trigg/holes.jpg

Look at what I finally got!

http://users.umw.edu/~jhaynes/uds/uds-drum.jpg

It's new with only a rust inhibitor inside.

Can this thing be turned into a smoker? Anyone got any tips? :biggrin::wink:

Harbor Freight Tools
 

Hi,
I'm new here, but I noticed that Harbor Freight Tools had
Knockout Punch Kit 15.99 and 3 Piece Titanium Nitride Coated High Speed Steel Step Drill 9.99
on sale.

Look back a few pages and you will see a dialog between myself and a couple of other forum members about the harbor Freight knockout punches. The steel step drill should be good to go.

Like I said, I'm new-at page 242.
So far, both tools have been talked about, I saw that both were on sale.
That said, you are entitled to your opinion, everyone is. Over the years, I've heard some hilarious ones(SMILE)

OK, I'm gonna look thru this thread more thoroughly but in the mean time does anyone have any advice for finding a drum around town besides Craigslist? Like a business or any other kinds of places that typically have leftover drums that would be usuable, or maybe a place online? I dont need it be free or even that dirt cheap but less than $100 shipped at the very least otherwise it starts to defeat the purpose cost wise. I found this but it's over $150 w/shipping. Any advice?

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/ma...drum-open-head

I got a new unlined one from bestcontainers.com. Shipping was about $37.00 and the total was right at $100.00. By the time I add in gas to pick up a used one and sandblasting to clean off the liner from a used drum, it was a good deal for me. You can also look on eBay. There are some used ones going for around $50.00 shipped.

Bakery, they use food grade mineral oil (Unlined drum also). Thats what I used. I've read on here that machine shops use a mineral oil also.

Liner????
 

First post. First UDS. Got a drum that had mineral oil in it. Cut the top out and I can't tell for sure if it has a liner or not. It's not red, tan or orange. Its metal gray. I can clearly see the dark area where it was welded at the seam. I wouldn't think you could see the weld if it had a liner. I don't think it does but I'm not positive.

David

It prob does not have one. If you want to be sure dump any remaining oil in a container with rags to soak the oil up. Then wash it out good with tide and hot water mixture. Then if you spray a little water on the inside in one spot it will start to rust in a day or two, no liner. Then just do the seasoning burn or if you feel better do a burn with three pallets then do your seasoning burn. Mineral oil has a flash point of 375* Don't forget to drill your intake holes before you do your burn.

My Almost Finished UDS and one for a Friend
 

Started out with (2) food grade drums that I bought from Porcinepirate..Kind of a funny story. I had been looking on CL for a doner Weber Kettle to build a UDS, and he had a "wanted ad" up for a Weber Kettle. I had shot him an e-mail asking if by chance, he was building a UDS. He replied back with YES, and after a few e-mails he invited me over to look at his newly finished UDS. So My self and my daughter shot over there to look at his UDS and the PRON was in the air with some fresh pulled pork.:shock: The rest is as follows.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_001.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_002.jpg
Drilled holes for the pipe nipples
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_004.jpg
Welded the nipples :eek:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_005.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_010.jpg
Put some feet on there. Thanks Frank!!
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_011.jpg
Ready to burn!:grin:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_015.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...6/PIC_0228.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...0202001701.jpg
Couldnt wait any longer after the burning, grinding, sanding, sandblasting etc!!:shock:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_043.jpg
The fire box out of my almost (Brand new) retired off-set (just don't tell the WIFE)! :icon_shy
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_034.jpg
My cheapo T-stat... Which worked great until our new Tel-Tru's :lol: Get here!
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_047.jpg
Ok, Finished buisness during the seasoning was AWESOM!
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_049.jpg
OK... Back to my shop for the charcoal baskets
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_052.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_054.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_056.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_061.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_062.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_065.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_067.jpg
Ok...For the ball valve extension. Went to a local scap yard and bought a piece of 5/16" rod, cut it down and ran a die on there to match the same threads as the valve. Ran a drill thru it and the coupling nut and threw a couple of cotter pins thru it to keep them tight.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_078.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_080.jpg
Flattened out the rod with a disc grinder to accept the handle.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_081.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_082.jpg
Almost there!
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_086.jpg
Sanded the outside and then rubbed them down good with steel wool. Wiped them down with Acetone and used this paint. Took about a pint to give both of the drums 2 coats of paint.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_087.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_089.jpg
Almost finished Products... Still need an exhaust.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_099.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_102.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_103.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e2...86/UDS_104.jpg
The entire UDS cost as follows... $30 for one food grade drum, $12 for a doner Weber kettle (to use the charcoal grate and the grill) $4.50 for the expanded metal, the tube (feet) , 5/16" rod (for the T-handles, handle extension, and the charcoal basket handle), quart of high temp satin black 15.00/2 = $7.50 and a cheapo T-stat because I couldnt wait to fire it up :rolleyes:. And the new T-stat should be here soon for less than $20.00 off of Ebay. Grand total of less than $75.00:shock: But if you count all of the beers, electricity, tools, etc... it was just a tad more. :grin: The feet were made out of a piece of pipe given to me from Frank AKA :Porcinepirate as well as the purchase of the barrels. I had salvaged all of the stainless machine bolts, nuts, washers, wood for the handles,nipples,caps,and my ball valve from the guys at work ,my dad, and the dumpster as well. Thanks BBQ Brethren for all of your in put on the build. Thanks for looking!:wink:

Nice build and great description ofhte steps with pics smokin!

Dang Pit Boss thats a nice paint job on those. What did you do to get that on there?

GREAT WORK Pit Boss Honeycutt, I really like the finish and craftsmanship and attention to detail you put into your UDS. I can't wait to see what you do for the smoke stack (chrome? to go along with the black finish).

As I told you before I want to redo my coal basket to incorporate the great Ideas you used on yours.

Porcine Pirate

" Pigs are our Tasty Friends "

I will be building me a drum Smoker This Summer...I like what I am hearing and seeing from Bigmista

nice drums! give 'em a few smokes to "get to know 'em", but you should be good. let us know if you have any questions.

I used a high temp Rust-Oleum satin black BBQ paint from HD. The barrels were in pretty darn good shape prior to the burn, so after the burn I sanded down all of the loose paint and such, hit them with steel wool, and then wiped them down with acetone prior to paint. I had never heard of thinning paint down with acetone, but on the can it said to use acetone or mineral spirits. I opted to go with acetone to hopefully reduce drying time. Thinned the paint a tad with acetone, and shot them with a quart automotive spray gun.

I found a drum from www.midamericasteeldrum.com, right here in my city. They are $45 brand new. No lining but it has paint on the outside. Whats the best way to get that paint off there or is it even necessary? I dont really have a yard where I can get away with open flames shooting out of the thing for hours. Some neighbor would probably have the FD over here real quick. I guess I could take it to a friends house out in the "country" if need be.

I would still do a burn no matter what they say about the inside. If nothing else go get a few bags of charcoal and light it up. Just keep your lid handy and toss it on if you feel it's getting outta control. I did mine at night so the neihbors wouldn't see the smoke.

This will help clean the inside and soften or completely burn the paint on the out side.

thanks again Ron, so when the paint softens, what is the best method of removing it? I'm not much of a handyman so I'm sorta ignorant to these kinds of things. The UDS will be the most complicated thing I've ever built. Do I get the drum super hot and then hit with a special brush or tool or something, or do I just break out the paint thinner/acetone? or both?

I just hit mine with 60 and 80 grit on an orbital sander and then wiped it down with regular rubbing alcohol to paint it. It's not a professional job by any means.

Most on here use the wire wheels, if you don't have an orbital, but do have a drill, this may be the way to go.

Depending on how ugly you want you Ugly drum smoker to be 8). You could just do rough wire brush after the burn wipe it down and hit it with a couple of coats of High Temp BBQ paint.

Being new to this forum I only recently learned about these UDS's, and I must say am pretty impressed. I don't have a need for another smoker at present time but you never know. It's good to know that this knowledge and experience is out there.
One thing leaves me wondering though. Why do you all not use a heat deflector to create an indirect setup? You could use a large pizza stone, water pan, or terra cotta plant base on a lower level then cook on a higher level. I'm sure there is a valid reason, I just can't figure it out.

Some do and some don't use a deflector. I do both depending on what I am cooking.

Just depends on the cooking style of the individual and the flavors you wish to acheive. A deflector will allow smoke and controlled (normally lower) heat, but it's not the essence of the meat smoke since the deflector will collect the juices. I drilled hole in my deflector to allow the deflection of heat, but still get those juices to the fire.

All depedns on how you want to cook.

I think the reasoning behind not needing a heat deflector is because of the distance between the fire grate and the cooking grate. If you do 24" minimum like everybody recommends, you don't need a deflector.

Random hardware info
 

Bering's in Houston has an awesome stock of stainless steel hardware... when I built my UDS, I looked high and low to find steel hardware without zinc or galvanized. I wish I had found Bering's earlier... guess I'll just have to build another UDS! :-D Also check out their grilling section for a good selection of charcoal and other stuff. I realize this is only useful for folks in Houston or nearby, but they do have internet sales for those in need. Figured it would be most useful to include it with all the other UDS info.

Bering's Westheimer
1-800-BERINGS
1-800-237-4647
6102 Westheimer
Houston, Texas 77057

Bering's Bissonnet
713-665-0500
3900 Bissonnet
Houston, Texas 77005

1. I might try using the 16 inch grate out of the webber I used for parts. when I made my original one I just used the expaned metal for the bottom. I bent the corners down to make legs, and it works, just does not look elegant / professional as yours.

on number 2, I do use the diffuser for ribs esp, I only want the cooking temp in the 220s to 250 range, and I can keep it there pretty constant. I put a water pan, or drip pan so no drippng in the bottom of barrel or direct cooking.

When I tried to do a pork butt and get up to the 350 range, with the diffuser in place I had trouble reaching that temp. But I also do not have smoke stacks on the lid. With stacks this may let less heat escape and give me better draft when I want it. I will have to experiment.

Porcine Pirate

" Pigs are our Tasty Friends "

I'm so EXCITED!
 

I just got to open one of the drums I've been given by a local small strip mall owner that was used for doing soil samples when they were purchasing the building.

There are 10 open top drums with lids and rings but he didn't know what kind of lining they had inside.

1 was very light and it sounded like it had a couple gallons of liquid in it. I told him I'd take it home and get it opened up to see what kind of lining it might have and that as long as it was not the dreaded "red" lining :shock: I'd be back for the rest in about a week.

Got it home and after 3 trips to HF :evil: I finally got a socket big enough to fit the ring bolt.

I opened it up and it was beautiful inside :-D ('scuse while I wipe a tear :redface: I'm just so happy! ) there was a light coating of rust all over the interior and lid.

No liner, none, nada, zip. Just bare metal I am so excited! :biggrin:

I'll be using my new HF weed burner with electronic ignition to take off all the paint on the outside and my new HF 4 1/2" Grinder with knotted wire wheel this weekend to get it back to shiny and get the lid all cleaned up.

I LOVE BARE NEKID METAL! :mrgreen:

The seal was only half on and that half only had a little bead of silicone caulk.

I want to be able to post pics and I need a little info about how :roll: to get pics on here using photobucket so I can share the build and the eventual BBQ pron as I become a full fledged novice member of the UDS brotherhood.

If you can help with the pic info pm me.

Thanks brothers,

Smoke On!

brotherbd

This is what I did with a wood barrel smoker I made. If anybody has one of those cheap wallmart square grills rotting away in the yard scavenge the vents for the UDS. No welding needed.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...r/DSC02339.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...r/DSC02338.jpg

New Drum Pics
 

Trying to see if I get the pics right.

Here's 2 pics of my newly opened drum.

Lid up, gasket pulled off, light rust everywhere I look. :-D

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...s/100_6022.jpg

A closer look down in. :eusa_clap
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...s/100_6023.jpg


Gotta dump the water out find my white marker for layout and fire up my new weed burner. Might do the burn at night just for the fire pron. :twisted:

I will post pics of the build as it progresses.

Thanks Norco, Bigmista, N8man and the other greats of this thread!

With this drum I will honor the masters teachings with a K.I.S.S. UDS! :biggrin:

Both of the drums I purchased were alleged to have come from a bakery. They looked as if the contained some sort of cooking oil. I just got back form the car wash with the alleged unlined drum; I thoroughly washed and rinsed one of them. I guess we will see if it flash rusts. I think I will still burn it after drilling all holes to be on the safe side. I won't post a picture since it looks like brotherbd except not rusted yet. The first of two builds begins.

That is what I ended up doing. Down at the scrap yard they had an entire pallet of expanded metal that was all uniform in size. I just cut it in half and bent it around a fire extingusher to get the rough bend. thus the 3 butt welds. But cheap to say the least.

Finallly got around to making my drum. I've been reading this thread since it only had about 150 pages and have read all of them since. I've also read every other site I could find, so I didn't really have any questions when I fianlly jumped in. I just wanted a simple, decent looking drum that was easy to operate. Anyway, he's the final product.

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/f60ffef2.jpg

Loaded up with 20 lbs of butt.
http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/a280b7b6.jpg

Flipped half way through.
http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/0de74b14.jpg

Pulled and ready to eat!!!
http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/fb1414d8.jpg

If you are looking to build one and have trouble locating expanded metal, Go to the closet organizer section in Home Depot and pick up one of these (11 bucks) it measures 16"x16" and is 10" deep. Just have to burn off the paint.
http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/e5b5722c.jpg

I realized I had galvanized washers and replaced them prior to use.

That is a beauty. Congratulations.

Bubblehead, i have been looking for a stack like the two you have here for about 2 weeks with no luck. I am just going to do a single stack. Would you mind sharing where you got the stacks



http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/x...d/f60ffef2.jpg

Thanks for the tip on the organizer basket Bubblehead. Looks like it'll work great. :eusa_clap

NoviceBBQmovinUp - They are 2.5" velocity stacks I snagged off eBay for about 10 bucks.

Whats wrong with galvanized washers?I am under the impression any notion of toxic fumes being release is unfounded.

Thought I would share
 

I got this done a couple months ago and have just been playing with it. I did the intakes as small holes covered with magnets. I am starting my second now and making this my "camping drum"! It uses the lid off of the cheapo knock off weber grill from Wal Mart so it is hinged and stays in place when open, great for mopping. Also, I had a little hand truck so I painted it to match and bolted it to the side and bottom. Makes moving it easy. I have more but I will post later. Sorry for the bad pics, they are cell phone.

i've been wondering about the exhausts being on the sides. doesn't this throw off the heat distribution ? ie making one side hotter than the other.

I installed a short probe thermometer and did some testing with the stacks in the back for a few hours and then rotated the lid so the stacks were over the thermometer, no real change.

I stopped by Big Lots and picked up one of those cheap 22.5" grills made by BBQ Grates (http://www.biglots.com/Outdoorlife/i...7&iid=7351) to see if the lid would work for my UDS build. It seems to work best if I use the bottom of the grill and the ring that held the drum lid in place.

Here is a pic of the grill bottom (which is taller than the lid) with the ring. It fits nice and snug inside the ring while sitting on the drum top "lip."

http://users.umw.edu/~jhaynes/uds/Bottom-with-Ring.jpg

Here is the bottom without the ring -

http://users.umw.edu/~jhaynes/uds/Bottom-no-ring.jpg

http://users.umw.edu/~jhaynes/uds/Bottom-no-ring-3.jpg

Here is how the grill lid fits -

http://users.umw.edu/~jhaynes/uds/Top-1.jpg

http://users.umw.edu/~jhaynes/uds/Top2.jpg

I had to bite! :icon_bugeyed What is that material around your drum?

I measured that BBQ Grates lid and it's close enough to a Weber in diameter it fits my WeberUDS without modification.

That deep bottom half sure does beg to become a tall lid doesn't it? I loved your use of the clamp ring, I'll be in the garage trying that combo for a fit tomorrow.

Nice job on the build. I like the charcoal basket idea.

I tightened the ring around the drum and the lid fits snugly inside so it might work out pretty good.

My drum was shipped to me new. The brown stuff is brown paper wrapping that I haven't removed yet.

I still can't tell for sure if it has a liner. Inside of my drum looks exactly like the 3rd picture that Pole d posted on page 328. I know to be sure I could burn it, but, it would save a heck of a lot of work if I don't need to. I don't know how to post a pic yet but if you guys would look on the page I mentioned I would appreciate your thoughts.

David

PS. I read all 5,148 post!!!

The picture your talking about does not have a liner. Did you wash it out ? If you didn't dry it good is there any rust starting ? Rust means no liner. If it showed rust I would just do a good season burn. Spray the inside with a good coat of pam, fill your coal basket and get the temps up to 400 and hold it there for a couple hours.