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I'm new here and I just thought to post some questions. Found a drum for free but with 2 different obstacles. 1. It is a closed head drum and 2. Had either hydraulic oil or Glycol. I'm thinking not to use it for smoking just because all the work to burn and clean all the nasty stuff. I live in Indy and haven't found a place to buy a good food grade drum.
Other issue is that I can't burn anything right now because of the drought, the city is dry and they will fine me. Does anybody here knows where to get food grade drums in Indy. Unlined and food grade ideally. Thanks |
Food grade drums all have liners, to the best of my knowledge. Just saw "trash Barrels" for $13 in a Rural King ad. Haven't laid eyes on the drum, but might be worth looking there. One in Martinsville and one near Columbus. Let us know what ya find. Good luck.
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got my barrels
i just got 2 closed top drums from a feed store near my home...no liner.......now the fun can start.....i remember reading about a process of removing the tops a closed drum with a grinder and cutting through 2 or 3 of the metal layers....but i can find the youtube clip..can anyone help....thanks Joe
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If you look at a soda can you will see I think the same construction as a drum head, now take that can out and run the top rim on your bench grinder, and you can pop the top right out, probably would work on a drum too if you still want the "ring" in place. My flat lid came from another drum and was too big of a dia to fit inside the "ring". Bill |
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There is something to make note of that is simple but still needs to be considered. Make sure you are fully aware of what was inside that barrel and if it is flamable. Even one that has been emptied and washed out has risk of an explosion. Some have been seriously injured and even died from overlooking this. Mine had thinner in it, was "empty" of fluid but full of fumes. I filled it to overflowing with water and used a sawsall to cut off the top. I got wet but didn't blow up. If you get a drum with the liner in it just take it to a small body shop. They will sand blast the whole thing and then all you have to do is put it together. Burning out one of these drums is pretty labor intensive. Just decide how much your time is worth. |
Well, found a new drum for about $60. I might have to go with that. I'm almost sure it has that terracotta color rust inhibitor paint in it thought.
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My Build has started ... Pics at a later date.
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First UDS
Hello everyone,
New to this forum and just finished making Paul's Ostrom's design for the UDS. Pretty simple but I do have a couple of questions in regard to the build. The only thing that was deviated from the plan was mine has 2" feet instead of 1" on the ash pan which puts the lip of the ash pan @ 2 1/2" above the intakes which were drilled per specs @ 2" on center. My first question is will there be sufficient air flow with the intakes below the ash pan? Even with the original design of 1" legs on ash pan the intakes are about 1" below the lip of the ash pan. Am I looking at the engineering of this wrong. It just seems that the intakes should be more at the level of the actual fire basket and not under the ash pan. My second question relates to the first one in that because I have 2" feet it leaves only 22 1/2" between the bottom of the fire basket and the cooking surface of grill instead of the desired 24". I lost the 1/2" somewhere else within the basket. If it is a major deal, I can always cut the feet down to 1" and get 23 1/2" between surfaces. I'm looking to do a test burn tomorrow so input is greatly appreciated. Cheers, Sparky |
Holy moly...this thread has 657 pages. Awesome!
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I'm planning on the ash pan sitting directly on the floor of the drum, then three in legs on the coal basket...that would ( having 24" between) have the grate at 8 ins below the top rim...
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I would do a test run and see how your temps hold with current intake config. Maybe throw on a Fattie! You can always change (move holes up) if you need to. You'll just want to do it before you get the cooker too greased up from cooking on it. On second question...I wouldn't worry too much about the grate being exactly 24" inches above basket. There will always be some variation based on how much fuel you're using anyway. I don't think mine is 24" either and it's always done just fine. |
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Sparky |
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Sparky |
Why elevate the ash pan ... The coal basket is really (if i understand correctly) the only thing that needs to be elevated.
Scroll down the page and you'll see what I mean. http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...t=43943&page=6 |
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