Fordman- He's correct. Read the reply from my post. The grate needs to be 24" from the bottom of the basket. I was worried as well.

Chris

My grate is 24 well (23 7/8) but they want me to go 3" legs on the basket and if I do that I have to move the grate up and lose 1 1/4 up top. And right now I have a open top and and will look into getting a doner closed drum for a doner lid. I removed my riser and will see how it goes. If no better will go 1" pipe on the valve.

Fordman..My Vertical Intake is 1" I.D. 30" Tall. I don't have a Valve on it, I use a Sheet Magnet and have no Troubles Maintaining 230*-250* with it..
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/at...0&d=1182125922
I Also Have a Round FireBasket, 2.25" Air Clearence from the bottom..
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/at...0&d=1208032648
From The FireGrate I measured 24" and placed my first cooking grate.
I hope this helps you out with your build,,,,

Well I will try it like it is if not will do like you did 1" pipe. Thinking on leaving my fire basket alone. Don't know why 23 7/8 had a smilely face. Might do the big belly mod a rod running down to the valve instead of an intake riser. Going to try brikets next instead of lump.

Here's a crazy thought. I'm thinking of drilling a 2-3" hole in my flat lid for spritz access. I can put a dampler flap on it and slide it open when I need to spritz. I hear alot about temp spikes when people remove their lids.

Chris

Well bought some kingford hickory bricks only thing they had in kingsford other than matchlight. And bought a 9 lb bag of sams choice to do a test burn. Pulled the intake riser off and cut 2 inches off my fire box just because I thought it was to tall. Benn abought a half hour now 224 to 227 temps. One cap off and valve cracked open. Just wondering how much wood do you all put in?

Sounds like you have it chuging along good.
Remember small adjustments to the air intake to see how they react.
The Sam's stuff works real good.
As far as chunks I use about 6, 3 on top and 3 down alittle further in the basket.

Chris, that make cent$.

Fordman, good advise from "ON THE FARM". The drum reacts slow to small temp changes. Anywhere from 15 - 30 minutes is real common. Patience brother and you will be just fine. ENJOY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well just lifted the lid like you would do for a spritz and wow the temp spike. Didn't think it would do it but gave it a little time up to 250 before I capped the one cap to bring it back down. Now I see why someone said to bring it down to 200 then spritz. I thought the sams would be ok but bought the KF for my first smoke.

If you are going to have the lid off for moer than minute close off all of the intakes for 5 minutes or so, then remove the lid (no air at the bottom = no temp spike).
After a spritz the temps will come back down by its self.
If you have the ball valve set just right befor the spritz just cover it with foil, then you will not have to hunt for the sweet spot again.

Oh by the way 250 is not what i would concider a spike.

I think I finally have the XXL UDS dialed in!! As everyone told me the doors were an issue. I ran a bead of high temp RTV around both door openings then sprayed the doors with pam and locked them shut. It is a good thing I checked the doors after a period. In case you were wondering, the pam doesnt work for crap.

Plan two, built a fire in the belly of the beast, latched the doors shut and periodically opened and closed them so they would not end up glued shut. The temps seem to run much more consistant and return after the spike from opening the doors. In the past if I opend them I would gain 10 degrees after coming down from the spike.

I am thinking tomorrow will be the rib test..

Vasoline works to keep silicone from sticking.

Well tomarrow I will try my uds on a 7.5 lb butt. Hpoefully everything will turn out ok. Got it rubbed and in the fridge. How do you guys get the sides covered don't want to handel it to much but is there any rub down tips. Anyway going to be an early morning.

Mustard slather, helps the rub stick.