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mine is upside down and it makes it a heck of a lot easier to clean.also, when the lid rusts I can just replace a lid instead of a whole drum. potential downside -its only happened once- i was cooking direct and I guess the food was not directly over the coals. the fat dripped down and I saw some coming out the bottom of the drum. |
I was thinking about it not sealing good because the plastic/foam gasket needs to come out. Lowes has some silicone door and window gasket that's good up to 400 degrees. A strip or 2 of that may help seal it up or just some good old high temp rtv.
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I havent had a problem with air. I can close all my vents and the fire dies in short order. |
Just the grease from food. I have some weber legs left from another build and wondering if I can make them work.
Edit: just the axle and wheels |
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the silicone should work. |
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It's feels sturdy enough to me. Will probably be adding some angle iron like the hunsaker.
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oh yeah.
Had the macro damper printed for my heater meter. this thing is massive. Im not even sure how Im going to attach it to the uds as it has a 3" outlet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgzM0iZ-IUM http://i.imgur.com/CW6AubF.jpg |
Why is it you seldom see food grade 30 gallon drums? I want to do build a UDS but I really think 55 gallon might be overkill for my situation.
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Why do you say the 55 gallon may be overkill?
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Grainger sells unlined drums for $129. Stainless steel for over $700. Unless you’re talking about Craigslist... |
30 gallon drums are not a common. 30 gallon drums with an open head- less so.
Do the 55 - it's really not that much bigger. They are easier to find, cheaper to buy and you don't have to use the extra grate space if you don't want to. Don't do "food grade" - go "unlined". If it has a phenolic liner, you'll need 2 or 3 good fires plus some heavy steel brush work OR a friend with a sand blaster to get it all gone. |
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Think about this. The uds cousin the pbc I understand is 30 gallons. They have to hang the larger meats. The 22" diameter is just about enough to lay the larger cuts of brisket or ribs. Get the 30 but you may have to hang, fold or bend some longer pieces of meat |
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plus, you can grill on the uds and get rid of the kettle if you wanted to OR, you could just smoke on the kettle and forego the uds altogether. only thing is you wont get the fat dripping flavor(my favorite) but the kettle still puts out some GREAT Q |
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I want to leave the paint that's on the outside too but that seems to be a questionable thing for UDS builds also. |
The rust inhibitor is a coating or film that can be washed out with soap/water and a rag. its not the same has the thick solid liners in some barrels. Then you wipe down with vegi oil or pam and season.
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Ah so most likely mine wouldn't have had it since the coconut oil would have kept the drum from rusting?
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the uds CAN hold more charcoal for longer cooks but I wouldn't be surprised if you could get the kettle to have better temp control. I think with the coals being so close to the meat you may just be able to close down the bottom vent and just use the top vents for intake and exhaust. or you could just buy a heatermeter and for $150 you have temp control, awesome thermoworks probe, AND wifi monitoring :biggrin1: |
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possible "boomage and loss of eyebrows (or worse) could occur". Unless you live in an area where you can open burn, I'd forego buying a food safe barrel with a liner. There are too many better options. |
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it written by a tech guy so sorry about that in advance (no graphics etc) it is basically an arduino mated to a raspberry pi and a damper. here is a cost breakdown 1. heater meter package ($72- takes two hours to solder) 2. box for the hm $20 ( he often has misprints for free - I got a misprint) 3. power supply $15 4. temp probe $15 5. micro damper about $30 6. raspberry pi $35 7. wifi usb $8 total about $175 |
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(i didn't burn mine b/c mine was new w/ no liner) |
Alright. I just got a quote on a new unlined drum for $68. Its about a 1 and a 1/2 hour drive but thinking that might be better than screwing with the burn out and paint removal b.s. (was going to have to buy a weed burner to do this in the first place so that's $30 right there I won't have to spend if I opt for this).
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Question, if you end up buying a painted but unlined drum, do you have to still strip the outside and re-paint with high temp paint? Or is most of that paint on these drums sufficient to handle average smoking temps (225-325 give or take)? If I could avoid painting altogether that'd be pretty nice.
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If you want to change it to a different, non-high heat color, then Scocth-Brite the gloss black, spray high heat flat black as a base and then paint it any non-high heat color. If you can find the color you want in high heat, just spray it over the scuffed up gloss black. |
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the stock outside paint will handle 400 degrees no problem.
buy 2 drums that way you have a spare if you need one. I have 2 drums in my garage just in case |
In terms of the exhaust, I seen everything online from daisy wheels like on the big poppa smokers, to a pipe with an elbow to chrome exhaust tips from a car muffler to just plain old holes with no adjustment or cover whatsoever. Does it make any difference in terms of how hard it is to control temps? Those ones where they just drill about 6-8 holes sure seem attractive to my cheap side.
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also, doing it on the side allows you to put your temp probes in without having to drill addl holes . also we dont technically even need holes- just lay your lid on the drum and crack it open a tiny bit and youve got all the venting you need. |
I opted to follow the KISS principle with three 3/4” intakes and eight 1/2” exhaust. My plan was to evenly space eight quarters around the lid of the drum, mark them with a Sharpie, then drill the holes.
As I stood there contemplating how best to measure, my better half walked up with a beer in hand for me, took the quarters, arranged them on the lid and then she said “There you go. How’s that?” Nothing left for me to do but enjoy the beer. |
What about building a charcoal basket. I'm finding that looks to be a particularly expensive part of this endeavor what with having to buy expanded metal, a charcoal grate, and enough bolts and nuts to actually put it together. That Big Poppa basket pre-built for $57 really doesn't look like that bad a deal by comparison.
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something like this https://i.imgur.com/eoYii82.jpg |
Lol me and blue kettle are kinda on the same wavelength. I'm taking the advice of others and going with the hunshaker style intake on the bottom so wind isn't as much a factor. I will be building a conventional charcoal basket (2 sheets expanded metal, 17inch charcoal grate, nuts/bolts, and ash catcher). My question is with the intake at the center of the bottom how high should my ash catcher be to allow good airflow and do I need to worry about a lot of grease coming out?
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just my .02 so probably worth just that much. |
I was thinking of that also when it was suggested to me but hunsaker has a ash catcher under their vortex charcoal basket. Even if I raise it for the ash catcher I should still have room for 2 grates and a 3rd for the deflector.
Edit: if it's too high I'm fine with cutting a few inchs off the 12inch expanded metal |
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Pictures of the deep dish see the up?
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I used 2” square tubes that are 1” tall for the pan to sit on. The pan is 22” in diameter and 3” tall. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1468a9a065.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b35502755b.jpg |
may I ask where you got the 22" pan?
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https://www.bakedeco.com/detail.asp?...categoryid=103 |
Still considering this UDS build but I'm starting to resent having to drive from OKC to Tulsa just to acquire the drum. What's frustrating is there's got to be some of those here locally it's just finding them. What am I missing? Would a restaurant supply place have these perhaps? Craigslist is a dry well.
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