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I think I'm done with mine. It's mobile thanks to cheapy handtrucks from Lowe's. I found the folding table thing at an auction. It's tri-colored for now, and not very pretty. But it is very functional!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/Xu...w117-h207-p-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c0...w117-h207-p-no https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/gB...w117-h207-p-no |
I just got finished reading this entire thread, took me a while. I decided within the first 200 posts that I wanted to build a UDS since I have not been able to get the low and slow style on my Weber OTS. Rather than post sporadically here as the build progresses, I have started a build thread here: http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=187208
It will be a Jacksonville Jaguars 1st helmet design theme when completed, http://imageshack.com/a/img845/9204/77no.jpg but pretty much a kiss UDS. The only real mods are going to be a bad back ball-valve extension and a non-diffuser, non-water pan attempt to even out temperatures from center to edge. (Read my build journal for more info) I will post some of the major progress photos as these milestones are reached. |
it is amazing, maybe not so much, after we do one, how much stuff we do was not needed and how much we don't do might be...as you found out when you studied the thread...smart too.
Simple is best usually in the beginning and almost always later. One thing, water not needed, not used in TX pro joints either. Just light is and crack beers. |
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While walking through Walmart this evening, I spotted something that my be of interest to those that are building an 85 gallon UDS. $82.00
Backyard Grill 26" Kettle Charcoal Grill http://imageshack.com/a/img845/1635/y4ow.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img834/2843/ibhp.jpg |
Building my first UDS, and thus has been a great read, thanks to everyone who contributed! I have 2 barrels at my disposal, possibly 3. I was looking doing a few mods.
1. Taking 1/3 or 2/3 of the second barrel and cutting and welding it on top of the base, both standing upright. Thought this might get up further from the heat and provide extra room for a good sized second rack. 2. Thought about putting a baffle above the fire, could double as a water retainer holder. 3. Welding 4 feet on the bottom, 2 with wheels, for easier moving 4. Adding doors on the sides, at least one in the bottom to get to fire basket Any thoughts on these would be greatly appreciated, I'm definitely not an expert and if you guys think any of these are bad idea, PLEASE let me know! You won't hurt my feelings, rather do it right the first time |
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Some ideas you just have to try yourself and see what works. I have asked tons of questions on these forums and have gotten much good advice but what works well for some people hasn't worked too well for me. Good luck and keep us posted with pics! |
I suppose I'll add my rotisserie only UDS to the mix. Since this has no charcoal grates it's gonna run sticks or charcoal... the charcoal basket is over sized 17x6.
http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/...ps222a2315.jpg http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/...ps77798a26.jpg http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/...ps645fb1b0.jpg |
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Been wanting to build my own UDS for a couple years now. My buddy has been wanting to buy a couple gateways. Week and a half ago I did my burnout of 2 open top drums. Had one with tan liner (only bought it because it was a heavier gauge) and one without. Sanded down the lined drum, prepped, painted, and assemble. Been a week now and still haven't fired it up. I've been coughing my lungs out since the build. I'm hoping I just got a cold or sinus infection and not liner remnants.
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uds
Can you put fire brick mortar in the bottom of a uds
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I am glad this came up, I am coming very close to finishing my UDS and was wondering how much air would be drawn in from my ball ball valve . I was going to weld it but I do have a tube of Fire Block repair mortar but had no idea if it would bond to metal good enough.
Eggtastico, how long has your mortar been on ? I had also though about using some Cold Weld which I know will bond very well to the drum an its non toxic. |
I normally use Rutland RTV High Heat Silicone to seal any cracks, etc.
I wanted a material I could sand, grind, etc. smooth. So, I built one BUFORD and used JB Weld High Temperature to seal the firebox to the drum. Been 2 years now, no cracks, etc. Expensive option if you need a lot. http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps5630e9fa.jpg |
No doubt the JB will outlast the drum, but ya its pricey, here in Canada its over $10, but I picked some up when a store was closing up shop for $5 each.
I would need enough to do the ball valve and three bung holes because I used the bottom of the drum as the top of my smoker and the lid had three bung holes, though I honestly do not know if any measurable amount of air would pass through the bungs even after I removed the rubber gaskets. |
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