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-   -   Ugly Drum Smoker (https://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23436)

Big_Alvin 04-26-2011 04:41 PM

thanks 1funvet just what i was looking for. i'll post some pix once i get started.

Uncle Bucks BBQ 04-26-2011 09:32 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Ok the UDS is done, here it is!

Attachment 52232

Attachment 52233

Attachment 52234

Attachment 52235

Attachment 52236

AustinKnight 04-26-2011 11:57 PM

I need a table on my uds, anyone got a good but cheap mod for a removable side table? And don't say tv tray I already know that one lol:becky:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_o...2015.38.37.jpg

fissure 04-28-2011 09:57 AM

After reading 3/4's of this thread, I am ready to start a UDS build this weekend:clap2: So much info and so many options to think about:becky:

MrOneEyedBoh 04-28-2011 11:00 AM

Truthfully, its easier than the read. there is just too much to take in here. So im sure your mind was like. Im going to do this, but wait I remember reading this, but he said this would work better...

In the end, like all say keep it simple. The hardest part is choosing whether you want to use SS or zinc hardware. I went SS, its WAYYY cheaper at Ace than lowes. Trust me.

smokindave74 04-28-2011 11:12 AM

The previous post made me think of something I was going to post about a while back. I was using all stainless hardware on the first UDS I made, but I couldn't find the right size fender washers one day, so I bought Zinc, and figured I would just torch them to get the zinc off. No wayyyyyyy

I almost melted one of the washers....it was red hot, and it did not fume off anything. So, I looked up the specs on zinc coatings.........they don't even melt until about 800 degrees F, and they don't vaporize until over 1600 degrees F. Call me crazy, but I don't think that my UDS will ever get close to that hot, even if I had some red hot coals laying directly on the hardware.

I don't see any reason not to use Zinc coated bolts, and washers, etc, for grate supports and lid/handle hardware. This stuff will never get that hot, other than in the initial burnout, when I don't have any hardware on it.

Anyone else given any more thought to this??

fissure 04-28-2011 11:25 AM

I saw that about the zinc too.

Cut the bottom out of my drum since the weber lid fit easier. I am going to try and use the 2" bung on the bottom for my intake. I saw that most others end up only using 1 intake with a valve and the others capped off on the sides. Would it be any different using an intake in the bottom, not centered. Thought I'd come in through the bottom and put a 90 elbow on it so ash wouldn't get in it.

expatpig 04-28-2011 11:28 AM

Uh oh, I hear the zinc police coming!

otis 04-28-2011 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smokindave74 (Post 1624537)
The previous post made me think of something I was going to post about a while back. I was using all stainless hardware on the first UDS I made, but I couldn't find the right size fender washers one day, so I bought Zinc, and figured I would just torch them to get the zinc off. No wayyyyyyy

I almost melted one of the washers....it was red hot, and it did not fume off anything. So, I looked up the specs on zinc coatings.........they don't even melt until about 800 degrees F, and they don't vaporize until over 1600 degrees F. Call me crazy, but I don't think that my UDS will ever get close to that hot, even if I had some red hot coals laying directly on the hardware.

I don't see any reason not to use Zinc coated bolts, and washers, etc, for grate supports and lid/handle hardware. This stuff will never get that hot, other than in the initial burnout, when I don't have any hardware on it.

Anyone else given any more thought to this??

Hey--what's goin' on in here? Somebody thinking for themselves?? You know that's dangerous:heh:...

I'm with you all the way on the zinc deal. All the hubbub over it is ridiculous. Pretty much shows me that the internet is nothing more than a bigger "back fence" to gossip over... "somebody said that somebody said that somebody said this zinc stuff will turn your hair green and make you grow an elbow out of your forehead". Once it's repeated enough time it's "fact". I use whatever I've got around, or whatever I can find for the money I'm willing to spend at the time.

To top it off, I even use *gasp!* galvanized hardware cloth to make the walls for my fire basket. For less than the price of one chunk of expando, you can get enough 1" hardware cloth to make 4 or 5 baskets. Read the specs on what it takes for galvanized to give off fumes... It's a non-issue...

Thanks for bringing this up, and more importantly, thank you for thinking things through for yourself instead of following the herd.

And no, this is not to belittle anybody for coming to different conclusions than I did. It's all good in the end, and we do what we think is right.

PhilipW 04-28-2011 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fissure (Post 1624548)
I saw that about the zinc too.

Cut the bottom out of my drum since the weber lid fit easier. I am going to try and use the 2" bung on the bottom for my intake. I saw that most others end up only using 1 intake with a valve and the others capped off on the sides. Would it be any different using an intake in the bottom, not centered. Thought I'd come in through the bottom and put a 90 elbow on it so ash wouldn't get in it.

A couple of my thoughts.

I guess you'd use a magnet, or some other means of controlling the air intake? a 2" valve seems pretty big to stick on there.

I get liquid in the bottom of my drum when I smoke, so I'm guessing that might run into the hole, which might not be terrific.

fissure 04-28-2011 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PhilipW (Post 1624683)
A couple of my thoughts.

I guess you'd use a magnet, or some other means of controlling the air intake? a 2" valve seems pretty big to stick on there.

I get liquid in the bottom of my drum when I smoke, so I'm guessing that might run into the hole, which might not be terrific.

Magnet or a swivel teardrop over the pipe. I had planned running it up the side of the UDS halfway.

The liquid in the bottom is why I was thinking of installing a 90 on the inside. A 2" 90 on a close nipple will get the hole an inch or so off the bottom. Guess I'll just try it and see if it works good. If not, can always modify it to a hole(s) in the side later.

PhilipW 04-28-2011 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fissure (Post 1624699)
Magnet or a swivel teardrop over the pipe. I had planned running it up the side of the UDS halfway.

The liquid in the bottom is why I was thinking of installing a 90 on the inside. A 2" 90 on a close nipple will get the hole an inch or so off the bottom. Guess I'll just try it and see if it works good. If not, can always modify it to a hole(s) in the side later.

Ah, I follow you on the 90 now. Sounds good. I'm new to this but I like having complete control over the air intake, so I'd make sure whatever you do there provides good / repeatable sealing.

Jay871 04-29-2011 11:53 PM

I am building my second UDS and I have read every page of this forum, but I am looking for an idea i saw on here and I'm not sure where to find it amongst the 500+ pages. The idea I am looking for is the plans for the rod that extends from the ball valve at the bottom of the drum up to a handle about half way up the drum.

N8man 04-30-2011 05:08 AM

I think this is what you're looking for...The Big Belly Mod by Norcoredneck...
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...6&postcount=21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jay871 (Post 1626135)
I am building my second UDS and I have read every page of this forum, but I am looking for an idea i saw on here and I'm not sure where to find it amongst the 500+ pages. The idea I am looking for is the plans for the rod that extends from the ball valve at the bottom of the drum up to a handle about half way up the drum.


Jay871 04-30-2011 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N8man (Post 1626198)
I think this is what you're looking for...The Big Belly Mod by Norcoredneck...
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...6&postcount=21

Thanks, that's exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks


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