that much intake will allow for high heat cooking

Thanks.
Yes alot of folks like to do high heat sears and cook pizza above 500*
I was able to hit 600* using just used coals. Without using lump or wood sticks.
Using lump and wood sticks. This little unit should be able to hit 700*. Once a pizza stone is set on the grate. Full open intakes and exhaust.
Another advantage I see is. Easy mobility. The unit is short enough you won't ruin your clothes leaning over/into the drum to grab the coal basket. Shorter lift. 2 grates for cooking when required.
Sure you can not hang full racks of BB ribs. But 1/2 racks, chickens etc no problem.
I'm really liking this little drum. I might have to build one for myself. With the drum top firepit ( had to buy a fire place grate). I have $300 total invested. Could be done a bit cheaper. But building for a friend and being her first drum. I wanted as much new as possible. I also bought welding gloves, chimney starter cubes, chimney etc. Everything needed to cook except coal/wood chunks.
First cook/break-in fatties. While those were smoking I boiled up some brats in beer/peppers/onions/garlic. Grilled those after the fatties were done.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...922/UWu92t.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...923/ZVKKfB.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...922/f1oiSP.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...922/OoQP7o.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...924/vc2T21.jpg
Thanks for looking.
Side note. I am not sure why this little unit uses/requires more intake and exhaust to run 275* than any of my full size drums or my horizontal drum. It does use less coals/wood then full size.

build pics
 

More pics from my build.... vent cover is next.

https://i.imgur.com/yPlJoZx.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/PpgKWFP.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GSXKHzc.jpg

couple more pics of vent / latch / hinge
 

https://i.imgur.com/AulKHRk.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SDx8rV5.jpg

looking good meridian, looking GOOD

I cant believe I didn't post this here.

this is the graph of a 26 hour pork butt I did, just for giggles.

I filled the firebox half full with briquettes. firebox is 12"high, 17" diameter.

after 26 hours(22hours at 180°, 4.5hours at 200°) it still had almost half the lump charcoal left unburned

cooking direct over the coals is VERY efficient. I wouldn't be surprised if its as efficient as, or more efficient than , a kamado with a plate setter.


Heatermeter kept temps ROCK SOLID

https://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/a...1&d=1518331055

UDS is some kind of magic. I see this behavior with my tmp app every time I use it.
26 hrs and you only opened the lid twice. That's character:thumb:

Thank you :) and I agree. " UDS is some kind of magic" :rockon:

I moved the meat to the top grate so I could probe through the exhaust. I was doing an experiment and wanted to keep the temps as stable as possible.

most of the time I wasn't even around to open the lid. lets see, I slept, then went to work, then went to the gym all while this thing was going. Its great to have a set and forget cooker.

the one big thing I noticed from cooking that long is that the smoke went deeper into the meat than ever before. not more smoke, just deeper smoke if that makes sense at all.

Hello:

I joined (accepted to) the site yesterday and have signed-up for a subscription this morning. I, as many of you, own/use several pieces of outdoor grilling/smoking equipment. My drum smoker is a made from a stainless steel drum with the Big Poppa conversion kit. Since I cannot conduct searches here yet, I have a question and I hope this is the appropriate location.

The bottom-side of my drum lid gets a build-up of a black, greasy, tar-like yuk (best description I can give it). We built a smoker for a friend who used a mild steel drum with the same Big Poppa kit. The bottom side of his lid does not get the yuk build-up. Both drums get used a lot (butts, chicken, ribs, prime rib and brisket). Do you think I am getting the build-up because of the difference in the medal of the drums or is the under the lid build-up considered normal? Other than scrape it with a putty knife I have no clue how to remove it.

I have found the drum to be a very useful and excellent smoker. For me, it requires just the right amount of attention - not set it and forget it but also not demanding once it gets to tempt. I have cooked on it for 20 hours with single fill of charcoal.

Thanks,

Ken

I have a regular steel drum and I get sweaty drippings when it is cold out... or if I am running a temp below 275. From my experience, a higher temp would be able to vaporize most of the moisture buildup.

What are your temps? Any water pans?

I typically try to control the drum tempt around 250, + or - 20 degrees, for most of my cooks and I have never used a water pan. I have never grilled on the drum or had it above 300 as I have other equipment for high tempt cooking/grilling. Maybe I will just light her up, raise the coal basket to the high level and give her a good high tempt burn-out this coming weekend.

I would like to add that I also own a Grill Dome and Pellet Grill which I have and do infrequently use for low and slow cooks. Honestly, for no other reason, I just prefer the taste of the food from the drum.

Thanks again,

Ken

Look for this at the bottom of the page.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/pi...ictureid=11127
You can search the whole site from there.

He won't see it yet. You have to have an X amount of posts to search. I think it is like 25 or 50, I can't remember. This prevents newly signed peeps from spamming the board.

I've used the search bar without signing in on someone else's computer a number of times to get a recipe for them.

Nope, not available to me yet. Hopefully soon as I did pay for a subscription this morning.

Thanks,

Thanks man I appreciate the kind words...

WOW !!!! that is nuts.....

Any tips to keep the lid from sticking to the drum? During a cook I shut it to prevent any leaks. This creates a really tight seal. With the size and weight of my 110 gallon lid, it’s like using all my might to lift King Arthur’s sword. Most of the time I have to use a step stool for additional leverage.

Maybe a gasket on the rim of the lid?

Tweak/bend out the bottom outside edge of the lid slightly. All the way around. Just enough so the lid still sits firmly on the drum but the rolled edge isn't so tight causing your problem.

When I still had my flat top UDS (sold it -miss it), sometimes I had to use the end of a pair of tongs to break the seal. I loved that unit- and wish like hell my new stainless one had been open top. I like the room the weber lid gives, but would trade it in a heartbeat for a snug fitting lid.

If you want it ez, open the lip a bit like Ebijack suggested. I might opt to rig some sort of seal break on the leading edge of the lid- would easy to do.

Is there still rubber stuff on the lid around the rim? That stuff is like how when it gets warm

Since I have been planing at some point on building myself a new UDS without all the mods I had made over the years to test things. I decided to take my old coal/wood burning UDS and turn it into a stubby before I build anything new. Just to try it out first using coal/wood and burning pure wood splits.
Before
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...922/1v1N0H.jpg
Stubby version
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...922/vmn4dF.jpg

I used my weed burner to melt all the glue from the original gasket and scooped it out prior to using the lid.

Diffuser question:
Currently i use a 12 or 14 inch pizza pan with hole drilled in it. I think it's working fine but could be better. Its on my second grill grate located on the lower rings in a big popper smoker that is used to raise the basket up for grilling...
I was thinking of added some expanded metal to make by basket taller (for longer cooks). would it be better to just lay my holed diffuser right on the top rim of my basket? hansaker style minus the fans.
Think that will give more even cooking temps all around my drum? Then I could also use that lower grate to cook on, or do you think it will be too hot even with the difuser on the basket?

You may be better off just using some aluminum flashing to increase the height of your charcoal basket. You don’t necessarily need holes on the side of the basket if you have enough air drawing in from the bottom. Just buy a $8 roll of flashing and let it unravel inside the basket. It will naturally create a cylinder. They come in 12” or 18” in height and are 10’ feet long. Enough thickness to support a diffuser plate.

Lit charcoal will melt aluminum.

Las Vegas 55 gallon drums
 

Las Vegas craigslist has 55 gallon food grade drums for $15.

Had to check the melting point. I guess I never hit 650F in my WSM with the Hunsaker basket. I just don’t like expanded metal sides for a basket because it will project heat out in all direction.

Untold tons of bbq cooked in UDS with "leaky" expando baskets.

Pretty sure the solid steel sides would radiate a little heat outwards too but w/e.

Is the uds usually 44 gallon or 55?
I havecaccess to 44

Wouldn't allowing the basket to let heat radiate out towards the wall of the drum and then up help increase the out edge of your grates temp. And having a diffuser over the top of the basket cool the middle kinda evening out the inner and outer of your top grate? sounds legit in my head hahaha

Ugly Drum Smoker
 

UDS sizes are mostly 55 since it’s the same diameter for a 22” grate (24"). If your 44 has a 24” diameter but just shorter then that is fine too.

Thanks mate

Never heard of 55 gallon here,

The drums I have bought/used were all 22 3/4" I.D. to 23" I.D.
Weber grates are 21.5" Some cheap copy grates are only 21"
Drums I have bought are pretty close to 35" tall.
Shorter drums are not a problem. At 24" tall you still have plenty of room for 2 cooking grates and a diffuser/drip pan grate. 3" tall legs for the coal basket with 6" high sides.
Example
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...922/CURj2r.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...923/K3D9vY.jpg

I would not recommend aluminum flashing for a coal basket sides if you are going to do high temp cooking. Aluminum flashing is very weak/flimsy across the flat surface. Probably won't hold up with a handle attached for lifting said basket full of coal/wood. And yes you get more even heat around the drum using expanded metal. My experience.
But there is no problem using aluminum flashing for intakes/exhausts. All of mine have seen 700-800* multiple times/years.
A couple examples, this was when new. Cooking at 600*
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...922/wdRGVv.jpg
A few years later, still working just fine.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...922/vmn4dF.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...924/7PuhWj.jpg
One on my vertical cabinet. But it does not see high temp
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...924/hV5AUO.jpg
Flat lid drum
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...537/vu5Akc.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...661/2ksHZ7.jpg
Even on my Acorn for an intake. This was when new. Smoke Ninja still using it today. Many nuclear cooks. No problem.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...922/IsysXG.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...922/E8glJC.jpg

44 gallon drum vs 55 gallon
 

Titch said:
Never heard of 55 gallon here,[/QUOTE]

Yes you have- y'all just call it a 44. You guys use imperial gallons (tad larger than US gallons. Both your 44 and our 55 hold right at 200 liters. There are minor differences in the actual dimensions of our 55 drums depending on mfg- I would expect the same in your neck of the woods.

Most common steel drum in the world plus the grates of the most common sized charcoal grill - it's no wonder why that is the "normal" uds config.

Yes you have- y'all just call it a 44. You guys use imperial gallons (tad larger than US gallons. Both your 44 and our 55 hold right at 200 liters. There are minor differences in the actual dimensions of our 55 drums depending on mfg- I would expect the same in your neck of the woods.

Most common steel drum in the world plus the grates of the most common sized charcoal grill - it's no wonder why that is the "normal" uds config.[/QUOTE]

wow didnt' even look where he was from. Good catch.. Thats why a 44 gal drum seemed so foreign to me....b/c it is hahaha.

anyone else want to weigh in on the benefits of putting my diffuser right over the coal basket instead of on teh lower great about 8 inches above?

The Hunsaker basket has the deflector right on top because why waste vertical cooking space? If you’re not hanging then it’s no big deal. Doesn’t make much difference where it starts, from my experience.

3 bolts/nuts and you can have a 3rd grate/diffuser/drip pan location.
Keeping the diffuser above the basket a bit will have better airflow than sitting on top of a full/mostly full basket. IMHO

I’m a new member/new to smoking. I built a homemade UDS and tested it this weekend. I have to say I’m quite pleased. I have a bit of learning to do as I figure out exactly where my intake should be set to get my target temps. I used a homemade slider instead of ball valves. Has anyone else done something similar? If so what are your thought. I did it this way because it was much cheaper. I may change that down the road as the slider is a bit stiff. Also need to make a mount for my meat probe. Would post photos but I don’t know how. Lol.

Heat rises.

I have a bit of learning to do as I figure out exactly where my intake should be set to get my target temps. You will have it figured out in a couple of cooks- a UDS is very easy to dial in.

I used a homemade slider instead of ball valves. Has anyone else done something similar? If so what are your thought If it can open or close to regulate air, it's probably been used on a UDS. Big fan of the slider. If your slider is stiff, work it a bit - it will get easier. Might need to tweak it a bit with a pair of pliers or a persuader.

Also need to make a mount for my meat probe I used a thin strip of sheet metal (18 gauge) about 3" wide by 9" bent into right triangle -painted it black- used a couple of strong magnets to attach it to the drum. Stick my DOT to that - move it from cooker to cooker as needed.

Enjoy your drum- built my first one about 4 years ago- still cook on one about every other weekend.

congrats!!!!!111

you have just built a smoker that has proven capable of winning multiple competitions in the right hands. there is nothing wrong with a slider. might even be a better way of doing it vs ball valves as its more repeatable.

just remember to sneak up on your set temp and, a UDS does not need a lot of intake air to maintain 225-275. it uses surprisingly little intake area so have it wide open till its within 25 degrees of your set temp, then close it down till its about 10 degrees away, then close it down quite a bit. if it stops rising or starts dropping, then open it just a bit more.

for reference, my drum will hold 225 degrees with just two 3/8 holes providing intake air.

Thanks. This is my rig so far. A few mods I want to make yet. I’ll keep the slider but need some way to mount my temp probe.
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0...4e&oe=5B462B03

It will also radiate through the expanded metal unless you contain it.

Sans 007
 

This is the first time using "stubby 007" burning pure wood since the stubby mod was completed. My raised grate ring 4" above the barrel. That 4" allows cooking over fire burning wood splits. With fire management. You can grill from 250* up to 550*. Those are the temps I was able to maintain before shortening the drum. Stubby follows suit very well.
I smoke/grilled wings (marinated in Franks over night) at 250-275* for 1.5hrs till the wings were in 190*+ intenal temp range.
Anyways, with this set up I have 24" between the coal basket and cooking grate bottom. For those that want to know :becky:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...923/k99RIs.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...922/UonxVq.jpg

Got stubby fired up, a bit of hot coals to help to make a nice coals bed quickly.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...924/5G7814.jpg

Toss the wings on and add dry rub
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...922/t5SEba.jpg

Flipped wings around the 45 min mark
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...924/kLJC8J.jpg

Fire/flame control cooking at 275* Very easy to maintain thru the cook.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...922/AwtuVy.jpg

Wings done
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...924/XX3ZSA.jpg

Thanks for lookin.

Were you inspired by Baby Back's video? :heh:

Nope
Been doing this since
https://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/s...d.php?t=231293

But now I have a "stubby". My next(new) UDS will be a stubby. Except for not being able to hang full racks of ribs. I see no benefit to staying full size.
This is easier to clean (shorter and less reach). Cooks/operates just like full size. More mobile.
And no more getting grease stains on coats, shirts etc from bending over to get the coal basket handle.

instead of using a pan under the meat to catch drippings for ease of clean up does anyone just line the bottom of the drum with foil then later the next day just clean up the foil. Any fat that didn't make it into the fire basket that would have hit the bottom of the drum will now be solid and stuck to the foil for easy clean up right?
Thoughts on this? I was mainly thing about this from when cooking 3 racks of ribs where where the meat would over hang if i put a pan under and also would over hang the area of my basket and ash pan.

On a tip from a Gateway comp cooker, I line the bottom of my UDS and PBC with Floor Dry, a product gearheads use to clean up oil spills. It’s not flammable and easy and cheap to get at Auto Zone and such. I use about 1/8” thick of the pellets on the bottom and every few cooks I scoop it out with a dedicated pooper scooper from Amazon. Takes maybe 30 seconds and no muss, no fuss compared to foil.

Good idea. Thanks!