Seems like welding a big arse fender washer on the bottom side of the lid, at the opening, and choking each stack by AT LEAST 50% would do the trick and still look cool. making your own butterfly-valve type dampeners would be cool too maybe do both. Id say if you can come close to the area of a weber exhaust, you'd be in the ball park. Anyway's that 's what worked for me
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If you are using a Dial Type Therm mounted on the DrumPit side, the temp can vary from the side of the drum to the center of the cooking grate by as much as 100 degrees, at least that has been the case with mine...I use an Electronic Temp Probe on the cooking grate for additional temp exactness.... |
Well yesterday was funny, ended up not getting any meat on her. Just lit it today, and we will see how it goes.
Yesterday I lit it , temps started coming up slowly but after about 45min I was hitting 250* I was going to go to 300* for a seasoning run then ramp it down and do some cooking. The thing was, I hit 250* and immediately lost about 10* without ever touching anything. I went out and blocked half of each exhaust but the temps kept falling. I opened her up, shook the basket, and left a single exhaust open. Then my family decided to go to dinner. So I had to leave her mid-experiment. ( BBQ wasn't the dinner plan anyway) How much exhaust area does the weber have? I have about 6 square inches of exhaust area with both open, or 3in right now. I'm also thinking the fire box is too skinny? I bought the expanded steel in 12"x24" and welded the ends together, its like 2 coffee cans stacked on each other. Temp is taken digitaly and analog. I have a maverick I'm watching from inside that is on the side directly below the grate, I'm going to move that right now. |
Just moved the probe and got ~50* difference, oh my!
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My basket looks like this:http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/at...4&d=1182598999 Two 12x24 pieces bolted end to end and rolled into a circle, with the Weber Charcoal Grate being 2.5 inches from the bottom of the basket so the ashefall don't choke down the fire. |
Yeah, I need a wider basket...
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Scudrunr my expanded metal was 7 X 48 in rolled into a circle and bolted together dia. is 14 in + or - a bit It will hold 12 to 14 lbs no problem8)
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single inlet ugly smoker
to Scudrunner ....I have to ask This possibly stooooopid question. I have followed the Ugly Smoker thread but am confused as to the air inlet. Does the pipe end at the bottom of the barrel or does it also continue on to the middle of the barrel inside as the other design that has three inlets on the bottom.(bringing air to the basket)
mvk2604 Marty |
The pipe stops at the side of the barrel. Maybe not the best idea, however I have an ash catch bowl that would make things difficult. Things are steady right now at 230* I will construct a bigger basket in time for next weekend. I would make more mods right now but I have to get this brisket cooked or else it would have to wait a week, and I don't want it sitting in the fridge that long.
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love the stacks!!!!
Marty |
What is the Dia of those exhaust Tubes? Did you square the radius and multiply by Pi (3.14)? Assuming 3" pipe, both stacks would be a little over 7" and one stack 3 1/2" so you are definately in the ball park of horse shoes and hand grenades, which seems to be about as close as it takes to work
My Weber lid has 4-1 inch holes or roughly 3.14 square inches You are also onto something with the basket size, I learned the hard way on the 2 units I built this year, My drum basket wound up about 16" dia x 5" deep and it runs rock solid. Your smoker is the first Ive seen using a gate valve on the inlet, let me know how it works for you. |
Well my first smoke I have to call a success! Moist, tender, and smoky.
Took 8 hours for a 5lb brisket, would have been less had I not had to leave for 3 hours. My temps fell whilst I was gone There are some things I will do differently. The exhaust issue is OK but needs work. The stacks are 2". During warm up I experienced what one member said that the temps are high and hard to control. I reached my temp and couldn't throttle it back down to stabilize. I completely blocked one of the stacks and was then able to regulate temperature fairly well. I believe the proper equation of intake vs exhaust is 1:1 My fire basket is too small. The result of this is slow starting, poor temp control, very little smoke at temp, small smoke ring. As you can see there is a non-existent smoke ring. while you can smell it and taste it you cant SEE it. There is enough room for a long burn with the basket at its current size, I shut down with half the basket full. The larger fire basket would let me put in more wood and make more smoke. I think. I had no apple juice for foiling so I used hornsbys hard apple cider, seemed to work good. I want a different wood. I used mesquite because that is what was available. Its good but not my style. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...Picture387.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...Picture389.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...Picture393.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...Picture394.jpg |
I think you did great for the first cook on the drum... Temp control on one of these just takes a couple of cooks to learn but once you got it, it's a no brainer.
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You'll be fine Scud, like sampson said it just takes a few times to figure what your ugly wants and then you will be fine...actually, sounds like you have it pretty well covered for the first cook. Congrats, it sounds like it went better than most!!! Keep us posted!
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James. |
James, I drilled a couple of small holes in the side of my drum. 1 for the grate temp and one for the meat. The holes are just large enough for the probes to slide in. The grate probe sets usually right in the middle running thru a block of wood.
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Thanks, smooookin... I'm figuring that I need to drill another hole for the probe as well. I don't usually cook with a probe in the meat anymore, so 1 should do me! I hope... :grin:
James. |
James, no probe in the meat? just go by time?
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James. |
Snausage rods for the trashcan...for those that make Slim Jims, Dry Salami and Whatnot...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...itz/ZIPP11.jpg |
Did anyone ever try using a 110 gallon drum? I just got offered a free 30 and 110 gallon drum and was thinking about taking them. You could potentially get 3 shelves in the 110. Don't know if anyone tried it or has pics.
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As long as the diameter corresponds to standard Weber grates.
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the 85 gallon drums ive seen are greater in circum. than the 55 gallons it has a 26 inch inside diameter...anyone know if there are grates that can be bought that are 25-25.5 inch in diameter?? also I saw a post in site somewhere , cant find anymore. said they could buy reconditioned Stainless 55gal drum for about 135 bucks or so..any help would be great |
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I would jump all over a 110 if it were 6 feet tall. Since building my extension I am hooked on hanging meat for smoking.
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is there a ratio of air intake size to exhaust size?
I have seen different examples and was wondering if one is better than the other. Finally found were to get my drum from now just have to find time to pick it up and start this build ...... and yes I know plenty of pics during build and after |
one of my drums has 3/4 inch intakes and one has 1 inch intakes i do not see any differance the only differance is the 1 inch ball valve is more money
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I use a Weber kettle lid with the four holes that are about 1/2 inch. It works fine. For intake I have four 1/2 pipe nipples. Three have caps and one has a ball valve. Usually, I only need one of the caps off and the ball valve open about 1/2 the way to get it to chug along at 220-230.
I know Keale had some problems with too much exhaust opening. He had to stick foil in some of openings. |
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I am trying to gather all the best suggestions before I begin my build of the first uds. So my first question about the air vent holes: would magnets big enough to cover the holes and then slide open as you needed be a good cheap otion for air control?
Rob |
Drycreek, I think n8man has a post w/ magnets. Looked pretty slick.
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James. |
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http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/at...0&d=1182125922 |
Thanks n8man, that was what I was thinking of doing. One more question; Is it necessary to extend the bottom air pipes into the barrel, or does that just give you a place to rest the charcoal basket? I was wondering if it helped the ignition of the coals.
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On most of mine that I have built I have used a close nipple (all thread). On one I used approx a three in nipple and have seen no difference.
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I'm sorry if this is a dumb question, but I need to know. The intake on these UDS smokers is always set up from the bottom of the smoker. Now, since hot air rises and cold air sinks, then what is the point of this? The hot air should rise and go out of the exhaust pipes on the lid, and this would draw in air from the intake right? Why does the intake have to be moved up?
This may have been asked before, but this thread is f'in HUGE and it is not THAT nagging to me to read through every post to find out. |
My take on it is that if they were right on the bottom the fallen ash could block the intake on a longer cook. On mine though the 4 pipe nipples hold the fire grate so they have to be off of the bottom so there is room for the ash to fall.
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Me and my dad might be making an ugly drum smoker this year.
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What about the original rubber seal/gasket in the drum's lid? Does it need to be removed?
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You don't need it Art. And unless you can idefinately dentify what kind of rubber it is (and its silicone) you don't want it.
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I finally got me a drum and have started on my build:cool:. I am trying to use as many parts off my cookers that I already have as possible. I'm wondering if anyone has tried using the charcoal pan out of a Brinkman Gourmet ECB? It will hold 15#'s of charcoal and the deminsions are within the range of what I've seen you guys make. I'm just wondering about the airflow.:confused:
Anyway, here are some pics of what I've got so far. All I've been able to do is cut the roll off the top so my kettle lid will fit, then it started pouring down rain so I can't do the burn off of the coating inside.:mad: http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/9...0373yr0.th.jpg http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/8...0374or9.th.jpg http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/2...0375ou0.th.jpg http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/4...0376wr0.th.jpg I'm planning on using 2 - 1"x4" black iron pipe nipples with elbows and 30" risers and full port ball valves for the intake air. If it will work I want to put 4 evenly space pieces of 3/8" all thread rod in above the intakes to set the charcoal pan on so the bottom of the pan is just above the intake nipples. What do you guys think about that plan? Another ?, has anyone found any hi temp paint that can be mixed in colors? Thinking seriously about a purple and gold LSU can:grin: |
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