couple of questions?

1. What's the purpose of using the ball valve's and piping on the outside.
2. Some have vent holes, some just have piping.

I've read until I wanted to scoop out my eyes. There's just too many pages to go thru.

Only on post 5355 and this is my 1st post after the cattle call. Got my drum started so I figured I'd chime in. Google was nice enough to show all the other brothers that have used easy off to get the red lining out - thanks google.

First I sprayed a test spot and not much really happened. So I sprayed what was left (about 3/4) in the can put the lid on and let it sit 24 hours. The lid still had the rubber gasket and I put the lockring on for good measure.That bitch was sealed. About 80% came out with just the hose didn't even touch it. The 20% was a big patch toward the bottom that I must not covered too well. Sprayed 2nd can and sealed for 24 hours. Hosed it out again and it was at least 95% bare metal.

The local FD said no burning this time of year. I was on my cell so I'm going with he broke up when he said no. Figured if I could get the lining out and used some hardwood fireplace logs there would be minimal black plums of burning lining and cheap pine. Burned the thing for like 6 hours and no visitors! Rock on. Not looking forward the wire wheel part but I'm pushing past that cause I want some Q! Thanks everybody who has contributed to this thread.

The ball valve gives you an easy way to fine tune the amount of draft - and due to the nature of the handle - it is fairly easy to reproduce. You only need one valve (and two caps) to create any fraction of flow between 0-3 open holes.

That said, magnets work the same as caps, plus you can crack open a hole with one (fully adjustable). It is just not quite as easy to adjust and reproduce as the valve.

Exposed piping is to get the valve higher so you don't have to bend over.

I use my foot instead of bending over :becky:

Yep, same here. I use my foot to slide shut or crack open the draft door.

Hey Carbon, I love your UDS. I really like the vent system you have. Got any laying around you wanna get ride of?

New from Nashville TN; UDS project started
 

I got some of the hard stuff out of the way today. I work on the lid fit up to the rim of the drum, and got that fit I wanted without having it jam or stick on there from being too tight.

Welded up my expanded metal charcoal pot, which is 10"h x 15" across diameter, welded to the Weber Charcoal grate. I had the small piece of expanded metal for the bottom and cut it to fit. I likey. It should keep the original grate from disintegrating away on me. I didn't have very much scrap expanded metal after the pot build was finished. I bent the bottom of the expanded metal out to form a flat lip to make it easier to weld onto the inside the edge of the Weber grate. The barrel end I cut out is still a work in progress, I still need to do some more beating on it. I have a cut down tree with a stump about that size, I may get my chain saw and do a little free hand carving on the stump. Once I do that I should be able to beat $ell out of it so I can bend the edges more into a high sided pan. I plan for it to set on the floor, with the spacer bolts holding the charcoal pot bottom at 2" for it. I'll also have a All thread coming from the grate bottom with a formed hook on it for me to hook it and get it up out of there.

Did the burn out, and it should be just clean the remaining paint off repaint with high heat paint. I'll clean out the inside a little, to get any of the fire soot out.

I think other than these photo's, that is it for now

pfft I make sure to have my g string on when I reach down to adjust :drama:

Do you reall you really need to use a ball valve? What about just putting some holes at the bottem that can be adjusted for air flow work just as good if not better?

Another question is, can you create an opening on the side of the barrell to add fuel if you use some type of gasket to ensure that it's air tight? If that's not a good idea how do you add fuel to the fire when you are on a long burn? Do you have to take out the meat to get to the firebox to add fuel?

Ya can't get much easier than a ball valve. I can get 16-18 hrs out of a full basket-how much loner burn do you need?

A ball valve makes it easy to meter your air intake. You don't have to install one.....it could be as simple as using a magnet over the hole(s) to control air flow.

Got My Drum
 

Hello All

After spending a week reading the entire thread I had to build myself a UDS. After searching CL and finding only red lined very beat up drums I ended up getting a reconditioned drum from Sunwest for $36 bucks. They let me go through a ton of barrels to find a good one. Man I cannot believe the weight difference between drums. Went with the heaviest one I could find. Also ended up getting a full sheet of expanded #9 after seeing the ridiculous prices for that 18 gauge stuff at home depot. Anyway I will continue to post pics of the build as I go along. And yea that is a little blood on top of the drum..always wear gloves with that expanded…

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...arrelsmall.jpg

^^^ That expanded will get you every time, looks like your of to a good start!!

How long does the fuel last in the USD?

Also how does the USD hold Temp lets say 225° How many vents do you need? I'm thinking 4 around the btm of the drum. What do you use for a sealant?

Instead of ball valves can you put vent on the btm of the drum?

Do you need to have a gasket around the top?

Dude, all of your questions have been answered already. Read the thread and you will be the Yoda of UDSs