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My gawd what a thread....but it had all I needed.
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Took me a while to read it all but finally got through it and built one. Works great for such a simple system. Had a ECB and Walmart $99 sidebox both of which are junk. The sidebox takes so much tending and the ECB peters out after 5 hours. This thing seems like it will run for days on a basket of lump charcoal. I have about $40 invested and its worth every penny. Its great to be able to put meat on before bed and wake up in the morning to a delicious hunk of BBQ.
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. Oh heres a pic because of course no pictures means it didn't happen. |
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Couple more pics of my UDS.
The pipes in the bottom are all have 4 1/4 in holes drilled in them. I figured this would support the basket and provide even air flow. |
Nice job!, That certainly puts the "U" in UDS.
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gmatt, I still agree with righteousdog about leaving off the door. Everyone I know that tried it were extremely disappointed. I have been using my drums since 07 and have never had to refuel during a cook. I knowingly have extra fuel in case a longer burn time is needed for those stubborn pieces of meat. But, go for it if that's what you want. Good luck bro.
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I say design a proper fire basket with proper distance underneath for ashes, and fill that sucker up! No need for an access door on a UDS.
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Those pipes are 12" long 1/2" pipe nipples each has 4 1/4" holes cross drilled in it. 3 have pipe caps on them on 1 has a ball valve. Seems to work very well. In fact it may work too well. I am having trouble getting grill temps below 300. If i measure near the edge of the barrel I read 225-250 but over 300 right in the middle below the grill. The pipes fit very tight in the holes i drilled but i am going to try silicone around the holes to see if i am getting air leakage there. It may not be a big deal either way because it still makes great Q. :thumb:
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Rust removal via electrolysis
Hey guys, I have adrum that i just finished the burnout, stripping, repainting, and drilling for the shelves and ports.
Unfortunatly i forgot one part.... I have some light surface rust on the inside of the drum i was planning to electricute off. But now with the holes in the drum i will have to seal, and the stainless parts exposed to the process i'm a bit concerned. Do you think the electrolysis will strip the stainless parts? how long should i zap it for a light surface rust. deeply pitted parts usually get 24 hours. I am thinking of trying six to ten and see where i'm at. Do i need a electrolite like baking soda, or does it work with clean water as well? A grinder and my head inside a steel drum does not sound like a good day. |
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Other way to deal w/ the temps inside, is a diffuser.... This one has been debated often, but I for one have found it very useful for me. Does use a little more fuel typically, but it will help keep the middle of cooker a little more controllable. Next question is usually what to use, and again, various methods, but most commonly used is a large pizza pan with holes, slots, etc cut in it. Then there is SmkKing that makes us all jealous with this water jet cut diffusers.... :roll: LOL!! (Sorry dude, had to throw that one in there!) Look back in this thread a few pages, and I'm sure you'll see his and know it right away.... as well as others.... |
If you have your threaded nipples in place and there appears to be a loose fit, what are some ideas to seal this up??? Is it possible to sodder them in?? JB Weld?? Sealant??
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if it bothers you then spray it down with pam or rub it with some veg oil, green scrubbie it, then paper towel it to a cleaner state. hit it with the oil again and season it. i think i'd let oil and heat do the work first to see what i'm up against. |
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Stig, what is RTV and where do I get it?? Sorry if that is a stupid question. I am not real mechanically inclined...Thanks for the info...
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