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thillin
06-03-2007, 10:47 AM
Those of you that cut chunks from splits using a table saw or miter saw, what type blade do you use? I'm looking for an easy way to cut quite a few chunks. I usually use a chainsaw and then mual to chunk. But I was thinking if I split smaller, then chunk with a saw. Any thoughts?

Puppyboy
06-03-2007, 10:53 AM
When I make chunks for my small cooker, I use a chain saw to make approximately 4" disks. I then use the hatchet to wack into chunks.

Kevin
06-03-2007, 10:57 AM
Here's an idea I tried that didn't work. A miter saw. Kind of tricky to get the splits positioned safely against the back fence. Seemed kind of dangerous to me.Went back to cutting wheels and then splitting.

jpw23
06-03-2007, 10:57 AM
When I make chunks for my small cooker, I use a chain saw to make approximately 4" disks. I then use the hatchet to wack into chunks.
Ditto.

Meat Burner
06-03-2007, 10:57 AM
When I make chunks for my small cooker, I use a chain saw to make approximately 4" disks. I then use the hatchet to wack into chunks.

same here.

thillin
06-03-2007, 11:04 AM
That's about what I do now. But what can I do when I get wood that's already split?

bowhnter
06-03-2007, 11:25 AM
That's about what I do now. But what can I do when I get wood that's already split?

I just split it to the size I want, then use the table saw to chunk it up. I use a general use blade.

Papa Tom
06-03-2007, 11:39 AM
I have used the table saw and mitre saw both to chunk wood. And I still have all (count 'em) fingers. Just be careful especially with the table saw, use the table saw miter to push through don't use a fence. Come to think of it I have used a radial arm saw too, with it definately use the fence.
Heck I've used the band saw too it would be the safest.
Like BH2 said just use a GP blade.

The_Kapn
06-03-2007, 11:52 AM
Use a chop, miter, or radial arm saw with caution.

Split logs are irregular in shape and the blade can grab them, bind up, and slam the log onto a finger trapped between the log and the rear fence. This can result in damage to the index finger of your left hand to include permanent loss of feeling from the base of the finger nail to the tip.
Don't ask me how I know this :oops: .

Also, the blade can grab the wood, bind up, and cost you a $73 repair bill :oops:

A table saw can work, but I don't have pictures of the damage when it threw a chunk of the actual miter fence back at me. No personal injury on that one :lol:

A "real" band saw would work wonderful.

I think the best and safest plan is to cut into 2 to 4 inch wheels as mentioned above. Then split down to size.

TIM

MrSmoker
06-03-2007, 12:08 PM
This is what i use,i like the fact that it slides so i start cutting from the front and push the blade into the wood.I have a carbide tip blade.

VitaminQ
06-03-2007, 12:30 PM
Hmmmm . . .

I've been using a miter saw for some time. Might have to re-think that.

Bigmista
06-03-2007, 01:10 PM
I just split it to the size I want, then use the table saw to chunk it up. I use a general use blade.

BBS gave me some splits. I took them over to Bentley's and he cut them on the table saw.

I have such good friends.

swamprb
06-03-2007, 01:14 PM
Shopsmith Bandsaw, I should use the re-saw blade but I'm too lazy, funny you should ask because I just cut up a bunch of Apple limbs and cut them down to fist size and tried to split a few and just ran them through the blade again.

Papa Tom
06-03-2007, 01:34 PM
Use a chop, miter, or radial arm saw with caution.

Split logs are irregular in shape and the blade can grab them, bind up, and slam the log onto a finger trapped between the log and the rear fence. This can result in damage to the index finger of your left hand to include permanent loss of feeling from the base of the finger nail to the tip.
Don't ask me how I know this :oops: .

Also, the blade can grab the wood, bind up, and cost you a $73 repair bill :oops:

A table saw can work, but I don't have pictures of the damage when it threw a chunk of the actual miter fence back at me. No personal injury on that one :lol:

A "real" band saw would work wonderful.

I think the best and safest plan is to cut into 2 to 4 inch wheels as mentioned above. Then split down to size.

TIM


I might revise my entry. If your tool is under powered or the blade is not sharp it is dangerous. I would not ever (sorry to you owners) recommend Craftsman power tools, nor Ryobi nor Black and Decker or any off brand. These tools are built with marginal power and can be frustrating and dangerous. Go see what the pros are using and buy that brand. My table saw is a Delta, My chop saws are a Dewalt and Delta, My band saw is a Craftsman it was a gift but yes my above comment applies. I also have a Craftsman drill press but I scrapped the original motor and replaced it with one of sufficient power.

In another thread I'll give a partial listing of codes from Sears products identifying the manufacturer.

ZBQ
06-03-2007, 02:15 PM
I've used my miter saw and it can defiantely be dangerous!

I have had pieces split from end to end when the blade grabbed hold and luckily I got my fingers out without any damage. At the very least, wear some good tight fitting leather gloves when you are doing it. I have a carbide tipped blade.

From now on I am cutting disks and using a hatchet to bust em up.

Bentley
06-03-2007, 03:12 PM
I might revise my entry. If your tool is under powered or the blade is not sharp it is dangerous. I would not ever (sorry to you owners) recommend Craftsman power tools, nor Ryobi nor Black and Decker or any off brand. These tools are built with marginal power and can be frustrating and dangerous. Go see what the pros are using and buy that brand. My table saw is a Delta, My chop saws are a Dewalt and Delta, My band saw is a Craftsman it was a gift but yes my above comment applies. I also have a Craftsman drill press but I scrapped the original motor and replaced it with one of sufficient power.

In another thread I'll give a partial listing of codes from Sears products identifying the manufacturer.


I cut Mista pieces on a B&D table saw...just a course rip blade. First time I have heard of a power problem. I thought Dewalt was a B&D product, but I have been known to put saw blades on backwards so...:eusa_clap

Papa Tom
06-03-2007, 04:35 PM
I cut Mista pieces on a B&D table saw...just a course rip blade. First time I have heard of a power problem. I thought Dewalt was a B&D product, but I have been known to put saw blades on backwards so...:eusa_clap


DeWalt is made by the same company as Black and Decker but it is a upscale brand, Porter Cable is made by the same folks and they are good. I don't mean to condemn all B&D tools they used to make fine tools but today they have concentrated on the low end consumer products. BTW putting the blade on backwards is a trick sometimes used by the pros to reduce blade "hook" and have less grab, generally when cutting non-ferrous soft metals.

PaPaQ
06-03-2007, 06:18 PM
When I make chunks for my small cooker, I use a chain saw to make approximately 4" disks. I then use the hatchet to wack into chunks.

Same Here.

Kevin
06-03-2007, 06:34 PM
DeWalt is made by the same company as Black and Decker but it is a upscale brand, Porter Cable is made by the same folks and they are good. I don't mean to condemn all B&D tools they used to make fine tools but today they have concentrated on the low end consumer products. BTW putting the blade on backwards is a trick sometimes used by the pros to reduce blade "hook" and have less grab, generally when cutting non-ferrous soft metals.

Porter Cable is a whole other league than Suzy Homemaker B and D. May be manufactured under the same banner, not the same tool.

BBQchef33
06-03-2007, 09:08 PM
depending on the size i am starting with, either a chain saw to cut 3-4 inch wheels and then a maul to chuck them up, or if its <4" thick log, a chop saw.

nthole
06-03-2007, 09:47 PM
I use my 12 inch DeWalt miter to chop up about 6 inch logs. I always brace it up again the fence but never with my hand anywhere near it. Usually use two people, have someone hold the far end.

ModelMaker
06-04-2007, 06:31 AM
C'mon boys, (RIGHT TOOL FOR RIGHT USE). Didn't your daddy ever slap you up side the head for using a screwdriver for a chisel??
Your just beggin for trouble using power tools meant for flat sided boards on irregular shaped logs and limbs.
ModelMaker

bowhnter
06-04-2007, 06:37 AM
C'mon boys, (RIGHT TOOL FOR RIGHT USE). Didn't your daddy ever slap you up side the head for using a screwdriver for a chisel??
Your just beggin for trouble using power tools meant for flat sided boards on irregular shaped logs and limbs.
ModelMaker

That there is probably a true statement, just a matter of time. And it sounds like a lot of us are in the running to be first.

chinesebob
06-04-2007, 06:40 AM
This is great. I was just about to ask this question as I have about 2 cords of 12 ft wood that will need to be cut down and then resplit.

In the past I have always used the chainsaw, maul, axe usually in that order. My back isn't what it used to be with all the extra brisket I'm carrying up front so I was thinking about the mitre saw.

Of course if I could figure out how to mount my chainsaw to a table it could do double duty .........

Mark
06-04-2007, 11:28 AM
For dissembling trees, once down, I use several tools depending on the size of the wood I'm cutting. I got a Shindawa 36" gas chain saw, a Ryobi 16" electric chain saw, a Porter Cable "sawsall" an old B&D commercial circular saw and a heavy duty machete. I don't use the Shindawa any more. I also got something called a "monster maul," various wedges and a sledge hammer I use when necessary.

The right tool for the right job definitely minimizes physical exertion. I store wood out of the elements and off the ground. I've got some plastic 55-gallon barrels I store my properly sized chunks in.

Norcoredneck
06-06-2007, 06:29 AM
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