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View Full Version : Experienced UDS builders I need your opinions


cmwr
03-04-2015, 06:56 PM
I have built 4 UDS to my credit. My last one had 2 one inch ball valves sticking straight out of the bottom on close nipples about 2/3 apart around the barrel. http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o681/vaquero57/13984556942410_zps9jvg0blj.jpg (http://s1338.photobucket.com/user/vaquero57/media/13984556942410_zps9jvg0blj.jpg.html)

Here's a more detailed explanation. In the original UDS plans I followed 3 years ago when I built my first one it called for two 3/4 flat washers on the 3/4" nipples, one on the inside and one on the outside to reinforce the thin steel of the drum. So because I used 2 one inch balls on this last UDS I had to settle for thin guage romex washers as I could not find heavy flats big enough anywhere (1 3/8" opening) .

Every time I would go to use my smoker and I would go to crack open one of the balls, I could see the sidewall of the drum flex. I noticed the valves had a little stickage upon opening. I got nervous that over time this would fatigue the metal and cause it to crack so I removed them and put stainless slider draft doors on this baby.

Ok fast forward to today. A buddy of mine has commissioned me to build him a UDS. I got all this left over stuff laying around and I would like to put these 2 nearly new ball valves to good use but once again I am concerned of the issue. Has anyone used larger ball valves on close nipples on a drum without heavy reinforcement washers and experienced metal cracking later down the road? Am I worrying about nothing? Larger ball valves just have more friction upon opening than smaller ones and require more torque to get started. By the way.....before anyone comments otherwise, I am a fan of too much intake rather than not enough.

biggin69
03-04-2015, 06:58 PM
Weld your close nipple to the drum. Problem solved.

cmwr
03-04-2015, 06:59 PM
I don't have a wire welder. Plus I got to thinking that wouldn't necessarily be true. Welded or not it is still welded to thin guage steel. I may be over thinking this. Now that I think about it it may have been a stupid ass question lol. Sorry

NorthwestBBQ
03-04-2015, 07:41 PM
K.I.S.S. man. Get rid of the ball valves and the hardware. Then use large round magnets to regulate the air. :thumb:

ebijack
03-05-2015, 04:20 AM
I welded 1 1/2 inch elbows onto my UDS's and you have to get leverage ( long pipe) and pull pretty hard to flex the drum. But I do have heavier wall drums than the thin ones some guys end up with.

cmwr
03-05-2015, 06:29 AM
Remind me to post before I start drinking lol. Reading this now is kinda embarrassing I asked such a silly question.

ebijack you mean like this.....http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o681/vaquero57/13943779924622_zpsvztgqrgd.jpg (http://s1338.photobucket.com/user/vaquero57/media/13943779924622_zpsvztgqrgd.jpg.html)

I removed those because I was having issues with my temps at the time and blamed the uprights. Not sure if I was blaming the right thing though. Never put them back on and gave them a second shot.

Nuco59
03-05-2015, 06:45 AM
I'm in the K.I.S.S. camp too. Sure- the ball valves look cool but sheet magnets are cheap and work like a champ. Flexible, cut to any size you like, don't/can't rust, you can see exactly what your setting is- and no welding involved.

ebijack
03-05-2015, 05:18 PM
Like you, I built mine to be able to hit those 700+ degree temps and still be able to set any other temp I want/need to run at. Here are my 1 1/2 inch pipe elbows welded to the drum. When I'm REAL lazy and going for low n slow I screw in a length of pipe in one of the elbows for controlling temps. Works better than I had hoped, that's why I repeated the process on the second UDS and same on my mini, just smaller for the mini. I can get up to 350 using one 1 1/2 elbow full open most of the time. I need all 3 elbows to get the 700+ degree temps.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/538/5EdPeP.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ey5EdPePj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/537/ZKeEbe.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exZKeEbej)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/537/cRNMpp.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/excRNMppj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/537/YOsb9o.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/exYOsb9oj)

cmwr
03-05-2015, 07:21 PM
Well I scrounged around some more and found one more sheet of stainless steel leftover from my prior build where I put draft doors (sliders) on one to replace the ball valves. So I actually got enough crap to build 2 smokers if I had a second barrel lol. Mine with the draft doors works so damm well that i think I am building my friends with a single door opening of 1.25" wide x 6" long. I have 2 about 110 degrees apart but I only ever use one. On mine that can attain 450+ all the way down to choking it out with the one vent.

I just paid 15 bucks a pop for these 2 ball valves and thought it would be nice to get my money back out of them instead of having them sit around and collect dust. But they will sit a little longer.

My friend is one of those "I cook brisket in the oven ect" kind of people. I was surprised when he texted me the other night and asked me to build him a smoker.

I have been making pulled pork for some groups around town like the boys varsity basketball team as well as our high school principal and her family (for a meal one night) and I think the word has been getting around. Lets put it this way one night after a game the boys and girls devoured my entire crock pot of warmed up smoked pulled pork and it was a hit. There was none left. The next week this same buddy, that I am building for, and his wife brought pulled pork for an after game meal only they did theirs in the crock pot and they took a bunch home. Maybe he got the hint.....:laugh: Anyways I want him to have a nice functional easy to run smoker so he gets results and comes back for more. I think a nice stainless sliding draft door is as simple as magnets and prettier too.:-P