New UDS air intake - patent pending design

[AUradar]

ya'll think this will work?

[Johnny_Crunch]

How big is it?

[deguerre]

Looks cool! Think the minimal amount of air those small gaps would allow will have any effect?

[colonel00]

It has potential. My concern would be the gaps at the top and bottom. Many people run their UDS with the ball valve just barely cracked open. I would also wonder if you could ever put the fire out completely with air still getting in.

[ianjoe]

looks promising.

[Johnny_Crunch]

Not sure there is much point in finding a replacement for a $9 ball valve..........

[AUradar]

its a 2" pipe. My first UDS I had a single 1 1/2" and sometimes wondered if I needed more air. I am concerned about the gaps though. probably won't work, but I'll try it.


Not sure there is much point in finding a replacement for a $9 ball valve..........

where are you getting a $9 valve? I can't find anything under 35-40 bucks.

[ianjoe]

well it looks cooler than a ball valve too. Almost like a carb for your drum.

[colonel00]

where are you getting a $9 valve? I can't find anything under 35-40 bucks.

He is probably referring to this. However, if you are looking for a 2" one then yes, you will pay a lot more. There was a reason that 3-4 smaller intakes were suggested and used on "standard" UDS builds.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-threaded-brass-ball-valve-66233.html

[Johnny_Crunch]

I assume this is for intake? In that case most are using 3 x 3/4" pipe nipples. Barely leaving one of them open during the cook via the ball valve. 2" ball valves do cost a bunch more and that is likely why everyone uses 3/4". Not sure why your UDS would need that much intake open. I don't think that is typical.

[Johnny_Crunch]

He is probably referring to this. However, if you are looking for a 2" one then yes, you will pay a lot more. There was a reason that 3-4 smaller intakes were suggested and used on "standard" UDS builds.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-threaded-brass-ball-valve-66233.html


That's the one!

[AUradar]

I assume this is for intake? In that case most are using 3 x 3/4" pipe nipples. Barely leaving one of them open during the cook via the ball valve. 2" ball valves do cost a bunch more and that is likely why everyone uses 3/4". Not sure why your UDS would need that much intake open. I don't think that is typical.

i never understood this. You have three nipples, but keep two closed and one partly closed with a ball valve? So why have three?

My first UDS I went with a single 1 1/2" intake. Piped it up to the top and covered it to control air. Not sure I was really happy with that. I think the long pipe was messing with me. Building a second and decided not to pipe the air intake up to the top. Decided to use 2" this time. Figured I could always turn it down if need be, but if I wanted to turn it up for some reason I could.

the other reason I went with one the first time is I didn't have a good hole cutter, so cutting one 1 1/2" hole would be easier than three 3/4 holes. But now I do have a hole cutter. Maybe I should drop back to three intakes.

[Teleking]

Not sure there is much point in finding a replacement for a $9 ball valve..........

Or free refrigerator magnets off the phone book.:wink:

[AUradar]

Or free refrigerator magnets off the phone book.:wink:

thats what I've been using, this is an upgrade

[Johnny_Crunch]

i never understood this. You have three nipples, but keep two closed and one partly closed with a ball valve? So why have three?

I use the extra intakes when I am bringing it up to temp or if the wind changes and I need intake from a different side. It is easier than moving the drum while it is cooking. I don't have wheels.

[Guamaque]

My UDS experience is that they want to burn hot. Look at how many post claim this. So it seams to need very little air intakes to maintain a high temp once the fire is going, hence the efficient design. 3/4" as mentioned is big, so 2 inch is great, but you will be running hot. Hard to do low and slow unless you have an airtight seal with that valve.

[Sly-one]

I use the extra intakes when I am bringing it up to temp or if the wind changes and I need intake from a different side. It is easier than moving the drum while it is cooking. I don't have wheels.

What Johnny said. Having the three intakes with one or two of them being ball valves allows a lot of air adjustment, from wide open for bringing up to temp or cooking hot and fast, to just a little for low and slow. JMHO

[Mo-Dave]

One 2 inch pvc ball valve, much cheaper than a metal one, on a 12 in riser no problems for the last 3 or 4 years with this set up. Only runs hot if I leave the lid off to long or let it get to hot at start up but I can bring it down without to much trouble.
Dave

[tburda]

I use all 3 of mine for getting up to temp, and sometimes wind changes. One of the last cooks I did when my temp started to stall, i looked in and could see almost all the charcoal on the side where my ball valve is was burnt to ash in a section closest to the valve. Luckily a good basket shake got it evened out again but thats why i like to switch around the intakes sometimes. Just gives me better fire/temp management.

[BBQ Bandit]

Before buying my first Lang... was tinkering with a my first home-built project: a fugly looking Double Barrel Smoker... utilizing the 2" threads as an air intake.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff72/bbq-brethren/brethren%20cookers/PICT0390.jpg

Been there, done that, cooked on it for a year... and scrapped the whole thing.

[caliking]

I like the air intake control options of 3-4 smaller intakes. One of them is a ball valve. When I want to do beer can chicken or hot and fast, I open the other intakes. Needed all intakes wide open when i did a leg of lamb this summer. Usually for ribs I only need 1 intake and the ball valve cracked to get the temp I need. HF is the place for cheap ball valves and an inexpensive step bit set ($15 I think).

[Sammy_Shuford]

One word for a UDS, KISS.

[ComputerMike]

Three 1" holes covered with magnets. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy.

[Cook]

Before buying my first Lang... was tinkering with a my first home-built project: a fugly looking Double Barrel Smoker... utilizing the 2" threads as an air intake.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff72/bbq-brethren/brethren%20cookers/PICT0390.jpg

Been there, done that, cooked on it for a year... and scrapped the whole thing.

Did that cook/hold temperature very well?

[Muscrat]

I have used 2" header tubes and welded a collar in side the pipe and used a PVC ball valve with a close nipple. Those are really cheap!!
I got pics but don't know how to post them.

[jmccann]

Here's my version. The servo is connected to an Arduino, that's connected to a thermocouple in my drum....
It's 1" PVC pipe. Drum never gets hot down low, so melting has not been an issue.
Used a wood dowel for an axel, 1/8 ply for a disk in center. Works great.

http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt52/bigflash1/P1010148.jpg

http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt52/bigflash1/P1010152.jpg

[Outnumbered]

i never understood this. You have three nipples, but keep two closed and one partly closed with a ball valve? So why have three?

That may be one of the best questions ever asked. I'm building a UDS right now and I've wondered the same thing. But I've got three holes drilled just cause that's what the direction said.

Thanks! :clap2:

[morgaj1]

That may be one of the best questions ever asked. I'm building a UDS right now and I've wondered the same thing. But I've got three holes drilled just cause that's what the direction said.

Thanks! :clap2:

Granted, when smoking, I usually have 2 nipples capped and the ball valve open 3/4. However, when bringing it up to temp, I have all 3 wide open. Also, when smoking wings, I smoke them at 250* for a few hours. Then, I open all 3 valves up and crank the temps up to crisp the skin. Having 3 air inlets gives temp flexibility, with only adding about $10 to the final cost (if using nipples and caps for 2 of them).

[BBQ Bandit]

Did that cook/hold temperature very well?

Sorry about the hijack...

Was a fuel hog... similar to a Bandera.. however the temps were stable and responsive.
A drawback to the existing DBS design... no grease drains... not good.
There will be a need for a drain.... hence the mods below.

There will be grease dripping through the flanges onto the lower fire barrel if its not addressed (fire hazzard).

Image taken from thread: http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46215

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff72/bbq-brethren/brethren%20cookers/PICT0414a.jpg

[swamprb]

Did you clear this with Norcoredneck??

[martyleach]

I have three nipples.... on my drum. 3/4 inch like most people. When it is cold out I use them all. When it is warm, I use one. I like the better granularity that more small nipples provide in tight temperature control.

[h20loo]

Marty- I really do like the stuff you share with us but - Granularity?? C'mon, we're talking UDS here. One hole is all that's needed and an ability to control that opening. I've been building UDS' for years and in the spirit of kiss, I use one 2" hole with a BGE style intake control and I have to say that my UDS works perfectly. My fire burns properly as it does in a BGE. Had to look up granularity to see if I still remembered what it meant LOL!!

[NorthwestBBQ]

What's the patent number?

[B-Lazy BBQ]

I would say that with the gaps in your baffle and the fact that it is a 2" pipe nipple, the drum will probably run perfect to a bit hot with your baffle completely closed.

[Sammy_Shuford]

Here's my version. The servo is connected to an Arduino, that's connected to a thermocouple in my drum....
It's 1" PVC pipe. Drum never gets hot down low, so melting has not been an issue.
Used a wood dowel for an axel, 1/8 ply for a disk in center. Works great.

http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt52/bigflash1/P1010148.jpg

http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt52/bigflash1/P1010152.jpg

I still believe in KISS, but I do like good ingenuity. Nice work on the control.

[Smokin Turkey]

I have three nipples.... :laugh:

[AUradar]

I would say that with the gaps in your baffle and the fact that it is a 2" pipe nipple, the drum will probably run perfect to a bit hot with your baffle completely closed.

i think i might try adding a gasket around it, half circle on each side so it still opens.

I thought about using a wood blocker since I have a circle cutting bit for wood, but though it would burn up. Until seeing that other contraction.

I do believe in KISS, however, UDS seems to be about rigging as much as smoking :-P

[BBQ Bandit]

:laugh:

I have three nipples....

Brian likes Marty's nipples... pass it on.

[Carbon]

It doesn't matter how many or big the hole is as long as you're able to granulize the air flow. :)))