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RevZiLLa
07-09-2011, 07:12 PM
Here is what happened when I turned on my propane gasser. I opened the valve at the tank. No problem, the valve to the gasser was still closed. Opened the valve on the gasser that controls flame height/temp, and WHOOOOOSH! At first the valve on the gasser didn't turn the flame down much...too much flame. So I turned it off and opened it again a couple times and got it lit and a controlled flame. My cook will finish fine. BUT...if I turn it off and on again I get the WHOOOOOSH!

I am thinking this is the pressure regulator that hooks to the tank from the gasser line, but it might be the valve on the gasser that regulates flame height?

Does anybody know what this is and whether there is a fix, or do I need a new part?

RevZiLLa
07-09-2011, 07:30 PM
To clarify, the whoosh is not from igniting the propane, it is when I turn on the gasser valve, before lighting.

RevZiLLa
07-09-2011, 09:53 PM
I found this

http://www.grill-repair.com/blog/2009/propane-safety-opd/

The cook was slow, but good. Ribs, Chicken, smoked mac n cheese, smoked baked beans

martyleach
07-09-2011, 10:01 PM
I had that problem with my gasser. It turned out that one tank would work fine but another whooshed and then wouldn't put out any heat. When you connect to the tank, it opens a spring loaded valve that lets the gas out. It is a very critical dimension. If you don't get screwed in all the way, the valve only opens a little bit. Try a different tank. See if that works.

RevZiLLa
07-10-2011, 12:03 AM
That happened when I first hooked it up.

Midnight Smoke
07-10-2011, 12:30 AM
I am not sure from Whoosh, but the first thing I would do is check the openings in the burner tubes to be sure they are clear. It sounds like possibly the holes closest to the igniter may be clogged.

Norm
07-10-2011, 08:20 AM
I had the same thing happen and it turned out to be a bad propane tank. When I took it back expecting to get some grief the store said they'd had several with this problem.

Black Dog BBQ
07-10-2011, 08:54 AM
I had that problem with my gasser. It turned out that one tank would work fine but another whooshed and then wouldn't put out any heat. When you connect to the tank, it opens a spring loaded valve that lets the gas out. It is a very critical dimension. If you don't get screwed in all the way, the valve only opens a little bit. Try a different tank. See if that works.

I have experienced this also. Another thing that sometimes happens in the regulator if you open the valve on the tank too fast the regulator will stick in the closed position.

RevZiLLa
07-10-2011, 04:49 PM
I reset the regulator and still had the problem. I tried the tank on a different unit and no problems. I tried a different tank and still had the problem. I can leave he tank hooked up, valve open, gasser valve closed, and i get a periodic whoosh from the gasser valve. I think its either the valve or the regulator.

RevZiLLa
07-16-2011, 08:15 PM
OK. It was the regulator. I was sure when I turned the flame down low and watched it pulse every 15 seconds or so to high. So, off I went searching for a regulator.

I found out that all gas grill regulators comply with the same pressure spec and have the same size fitting to go onto the tank, unless they are for table top models running on small Coleman type tanks. Most of them are made in China, but there is no standardization of thread types or sizes where the hose goes into the regulator or on the end of the hose where it attaches to the valve that controls the flame on the grill.

Regulators are as cheap as $5 and as expensive as $50, depending on what is attached to them. Control valves can run from $25 to $125....glad it wasn't that. Of course, the big box stores don't carry the simple $5 regulator. Lowe's had a Brinkman regulator with a 18" hose for $20.

Then I had to search for a way to attach the hose to my existing hose, since the 18" was way too short....I like to go big :D.

My existing hose has a male 1/4 tapered pipe thread. The end of the hose on the regulator I bought is female 3/8 flared. So, I had to go from flared to non-flared and from 3/8 to 1/4. The guy at Lowe's said it couldn't be done, but invited me to check out fittings and open packages and try to rig it. I found a 3/8 female flared to 1/4 female tapered pipe thread adapter!!! Then all I needed was a 3/8 flared male to 3/8 flared male connector. Picked up some yellow Teflon tape for gas connections too. The guy at Lowe's verified that the parts would seal and work and helped me put back all the open packages...he was really nice.

SUCCESS!!!

Brinkman regulator - $19
Teflon gas tape - $3.79
3/8 male flared to 3/8 male flared adapter - $3.79
3/8 female flared to 1/2 female tapered pipe thread adapter - $2.29

About 30 bucks and 90 min trying to find the right adaptors...

mbshop
07-16-2011, 09:14 PM
anytime you do stuff like this its best to look for leaks using some soapy water and check for bubbles.

RevZiLLa
07-16-2011, 10:03 PM
anytime you do stuff like this its best to look for leaks using some soapy water and check for bubbles.

Amen!

Boshizzle
07-16-2011, 11:03 PM
anytime you do stuff like this its best to look for leaks using some soapy water and check for bubbles.

When I used gas grills that was a routine for me. Thanks for the reminder.

Norm
07-17-2011, 07:49 AM
The solution that is used to blow soap bubbles works great as a leak detector.

Black Dog BBQ
07-17-2011, 08:23 AM
The solution that is used to blow soap bubbles works great as a leak detector.

I knew a guy who used his bic lighter to search for leaks. We call him "Flash" now. lol

Qing
07-17-2011, 08:33 AM
I knew a guy who used his bic lighter to search for leaks. We call him "Flash" now. lol

Now that's funny :shock::laugh::pound::rofl:I mean sad...