1.25" ball valves in a UDS

[cmwr]

Getting ready to build a UDS for a CO worker and I'm trying to use up supplies I already have on hand. I have several 1 1/4" ball valves laying around and since my previous builds used free flowing stainless slider doors, I was thinking maybe using these larger valves would really flow some CFM. I guess I got spoiled once I started using sliders. I was wondering if anyone has used larger ball valves like this and if so did you have to reinforce the drum where they attached? Larger valves tend to take more effort to crack open from a closed position I've noticed. BTW my stainless scrap supplier has shut down so that's why I'm looking at using these valves. I built all my previous sliders from scratch and the supplies are gone. Thanks

 

[bschoen]

I used a ball valve on one of three intakes. It was a waste of money as I found the fine tuning it allowed wasn't required on a uds. If you insist on that level of control a cheap magnet on one of the intakes will do the same job.

 

[Nuco59]

Thin aluminum sheet from HD or Lowes would do in a pinch to fab a slider from. But if you have lemons.... go for it. You might be right about having to reinforce that thin barrel wall. That big of ball valves will definitely let in more air- but just like a large slider, I'd think you'd lose a lot of the "coarse adjustments" like Full open, half open, 1/4 open ex- I have a 3" x 4" ss slider on my drum- it's GREAT getting it up to temp-but to run it at 290-ish, I can only leave it cracked of about 1/16" inch or so - making small adjustments off that tiny opening is sort of a pain. I'd think a large Ball Valve might have the same sort of issue- but that's just gut- not backed by math.

 

[cmwr]

I used a ball valve on one of three intakes. It was a waste of money as I found the fine tuning it allowed wasn't required on a uds. If you insist on that level of control a cheap magnet on one of the intakes will do the same job.

I agree with you 100%, but my buddy told me what he's looking for and I don't think he'll be happy with just some magnets. I'm building technically for a customer not for myself

 

[Paul B]

I use a bge slider on mine. Get temp rising a start shutting down to about 1/4" to run at 275-300°.
Forgot haw to post, but my UDS is the all stainless pictured in the uds thread awhile ago.
Paul B

 

[cmwr]

Thin aluminum sheet from HD or Lowes would do in a pinch to fab a slider from. But if you have lemons.... go for it. You might be right about having to reinforce that thin barrel wall. That big of ball valves will definitely let in more air- but just like a large slider, I'd think you'd lose a lot of the "coarse adjustments" like Full open, half open, 1/4 open ex- I have a 3" x 4" ss slider on my drum- it's GREAT getting it up to temp-but to run it at 290-ish, I can only leave it cracked of about 1/16" inch or so - making small adjustments off that tiny opening is sort of a pain. I'd think a large Ball Valve might have the same sort of issue- but that's just gut- not backed by math.

Holy cow your draft door is huge! The ones I made were only like one and a quarter inch wide by 5 in long. Yes they will get a drum up to temperature quickly but I don't need to shut it down that much lol. If mine is open about half to three quarters of an inch I can maintain 250 easily. One quarter of an inch can have me around 200 lol. And wide open can have me around 450 to 500 if I'm using lump.

 

[cmwr]

I use a bge slider on mine. Get temp rising a start shutting down to about 1/4" to run at 275-300°.
Forgot haw to post, but my UDS is the all stainless pictured in the uds thread awhile ago.
Paul B

Yeah if he wants to spend the money I'll order all that stuff but I'm just trying to make him one as cheap as I can with free stuff or leftover stuff. He's willing to spend a little bit that's for sure