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Competition BBQ *On Topic Only* Discussion regarding all aspects of Competition BBQ. Experiences competing or visiting, questions, getting started, Equipment, announcements of events, Results, Reviews, Planning, etc. Questions here will be responded to with competition BBQ in mind.


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Unread 11-02-2008, 12:08 AM   #1
SmokeInDaEye
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Default Fireproofing?

I was planning on doing some mods on my little trailer this winter like maybe some outdoor speakers, some spotlights and, most importantly, fireproofing my back cooking area (the drop down door). Anyone have any thoughts on a fire resistent covering or coating?
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Unread 11-02-2008, 01:19 AM   #2
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Fireproof? U plan on cooking on the ramp? or just looking to generally protect it?

Ace hardware has a garage floor epoxy paint that runs about 40$ a gallon. . I add a bag of paint sand to the gallon and roller it on. It gives a good non skid coating and protects its. Not quite fireproff though, nut hard enuf to protect in from dropped embers and such. One gallon covers my ramp several times thru the season. probably 6-8 coats.
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Unread 11-02-2008, 06:01 AM   #3
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install some aluminum diamond plate on the ramp deck, get a hold of the Giggler, i'm sure he can hook you up with some
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Unread 11-02-2008, 07:56 AM   #4
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Rhino Linings is non-slip and is self extingushing (no-flame being applied it goes out) one coat sould last a life time.
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Unread 11-02-2008, 09:26 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBQchef33 View Post
Fireproof? U plan on cooking on the ramp? or just looking to generally protect it?

Ace hardware has a garage floor epoxy paint that runs about 40$ a gallon. . I add a bag of paint sand to the gallon and roller it on. It gives a good non skid coating and protects its. Not quite fireproff though, nut hard enuf to protect in from dropped embers and such. One gallon covers my ramp several times thru the season. probably 6-8 coats.
Yeah, I cook on the back. Also need to repaint the inside so the epoxy paint would probably work for that. Now Just need to figure out the lights and speakers!
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Unread 11-02-2008, 09:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokin' Gnome BBQ View Post
Rhino Linings is non-slip and is self extingushing (no-flame being applied it goes out) one coat sould last a life time.
That stuff is awesome! Any idea roughly how much it costs to get a small trailer sprayed? I may have them do my hands too!
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Unread 11-02-2008, 10:15 AM   #7
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I got a price of $550 to do my ramp with armorthane(just like rhino lining). it a little larger than yours. IMO, $$ was kind of steep for our applicaitons.

you can get herculiner DIY liners from JC Whitney. its 100$ a gallon and you could get one application out of it. Its used on the floor of jeep wranglers, not as tough as rhino. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/I...D:100000283140

steer clear of the diamond plate.

Looks good, but when it gets wet, greasy, or worse, both, you have a real problem.

the rest of us will most likely just watch and laugh(aftrer we made sure you didnt get hurt).


All i all, i liked the epoxy paint becase i can recoat when it gets too nasty. it scrubs well, but eventually the grease stains dont come out. It usually gets a new coat in the beginning and then halfway thru the season depending on how much crap sledneck spills on it.
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Unread 11-02-2008, 10:44 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBQchef33
nut hard enuf to protect in from dropped embers and such.

some jokes write themselves.

Seriously though, this place makes both flame resistant and retardant coatings, although I have no experience.
http://www.flamecontrol.com/woods_n.html

I do wonder how long they may smell after application. Make sure you have time to air them out.

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Wood
Flame Control makes several different types of coatings for wood.
We make Flame Retardant and Fire Retardant Varnishes and Clear Coatings for wood so that the surfaces are protected against burning while maintaining the look of the wood. These come in systems that give both Class A and Class B Fire Ratings and can be used on walls, ceilings, trim work and floors. Previously uncoated porous wood should be sealed with Flame Control #6 or #66 Wood Sealer prior to varnishing.

Click here to see our line of Flame Control Varnishes and Clear Coats
We make Flame Retardant and Fire Retardant Paints that can be used on interior wood and exterior surfaces that have minor exposure to extreme weathering. Finishes include Flat, Low-Gloss, Semi-Gloss and High-Gloss. Previously uncoated surfaces should be primed with Flame Control 3001 or 3003 primer prior to painting.

Click here to see our line of Flame Control Paints
There are times that wood surfaces may be in close proximity to heat generating equipment like wood stoves. In those cases you might need one of our special High
Performance Industrial Heat Resistant Coatings to protect the wood from damage and withstand the elevated surface temperature.

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Unread 11-02-2008, 10:56 AM   #9
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Clint, you just using the WSM's on the rear deck?

How about just laying down a welding blanket?

I can see that Rhino lining getting just as slick with water or grease on it.
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Unread 11-02-2008, 12:57 PM   #10
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One piece of advice on putting stuff on your ramp door: be wary of the additional weight.

The previous owner of our trailer applied heavy linoleum tile on the door. It is slick when wet, but also added a good hundred pounds to the door weight, enough to overpower the lift assist springs and make putting the door up a real chore for two men and a physical challenge for one. Scraping and chiseling the stuff off is a royal pain, one of my off season jobs this winter. :(
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Unread 11-02-2008, 02:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bbq Bubba View Post
Clint, you just using the WSM's on the rear deck?

How about just laying down a welding blanket?

I can see that Rhino lining getting just as slick with water or grease on it.
Yeah, just the WSMs. I was using a fireproof pad but also need to recoat the entire thing anyway since it just had a light coat of paint when I bought it earlier this year. I've got about 8 months to let it air out so should be fine.
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Unread 11-02-2008, 05:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBQchef33 View Post
I got a price of $550 to do my ramp with armorthane(just like rhino lining). it a little larger than yours. IMO, $$ was kind of steep for our applicaitons.

you can get herculiner DIY liners from JC Whitney. its 100$ a gallon and you could get one application out of it. Its used on the floor of jeep wranglers, not as tough as rhino. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/I...D:100000283140

steer clear of the diamond plate.

Looks good, but when it gets wet, greasy, or worse, both, you have a real problem.

the rest of us will most likely just watch and laugh(aftrer we made sure you didnt get hurt).


All i all, i liked the epoxy paint becase i can recoat when it gets too nasty. it scrubs well, but eventually the grease stains dont come out. It usually gets a new coat in the beginning and then halfway thru the season depending on how much crap sledneck spills on it.
armorthane is not like Rhino just another knock off, for the size area you are looking at having done it is more like $250.00 ot $300.00, unless they are tring to rip you off...
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Unread 11-02-2008, 06:41 PM   #13
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I have seen some one use the roll-on bed liner stuff (Hurculiner?) shot through a sand blast nozzle. Clean up is a beotch but its cheaper than the Rino or BullHide places.
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Unread 11-02-2008, 09:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
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. It usually gets a new coat in the beginning and then halfway thru the season depending on how much crap sledneck spills on it.
Who me?
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Unread 11-03-2008, 08:45 AM   #15
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Sounds like worthless extra work, I say just put the smokers on the ground.
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