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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, Equipment and just outdoor cookin' in general, hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures... but stay on topic. And watch for that hijacking.


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Unread 06-07-2008, 09:27 PM   #46
Forney
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Thank you for the non-welding tips. I have a pacemaker and can't go near a welder. Thank you thank you!!
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Unread 06-08-2008, 01:36 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinesebob View Post
I was looking at the nuts earlier today at HD and they said steel. No mention of galvanized. Those still ok?

Plugs - how do you open them up if you need additional airflow?
OK been wanting to say something but bit my lip. Most hardware you get at a standard hardware store is Steel that is either Zinc plated or Cadium plated. This is those Bolts, nuts, washers, ect. in the bins, Eyebolts, brackets and what not. Things that are galvanized are usually thin cheap metal for outdor use. I was told by an old guy that they started galvanizing water pipe because it was poor quality iron and the galvanize coating sealed it and also provided a rust protectant. Zinc and Cad are also bad for you. I don't know if it gets hot enough to outgas or not. If I did not have access to the stainless I use I doubt that I would spend the probably 3X the amount of what I refer to as "'K" bolts (as in Kmart). To be safe I would hit with torch and wire brush. People might argue but that is my feeling on the matter. Those Conduit nuts are probably zinc plated. Most things with threads are Zinc not galvanized. Galvanizing is a coating that adds thickness and would plug or foul the threads. You will also find things like that that are made out of what I refer to as Pot metal. It is a really low grade aluminum alloy of sorts. It is light and looks like aluminum but it is not. Think the bottom of old Hot Wheels cars. That is pot metal. Cheap to use in manufacturing and does not rust.



Now on the Plugs. To increase temp you just pull a plug. The screw set up Swampb came up with just makes it easier. To lower you install a plug. From one plug to 2 is a large increase but in between can be obtained by choking exhaust. Maybe Swampb can chime in and give better details.
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Last edited by Norcoredneck; 06-08-2008 at 09:57 PM..
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Unread 06-08-2008, 01:44 AM   #48
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Cost example
Part Number: 3013T341 $3.94 Each
Type
Eyebolts
Shoulder Type
Without Shoulder
Thread Type
Fully Threaded
Material Type
Steel
Finish
Zinc-Plated
Steel Type
Plain Steel
Thread Size
1/4"-20
Work Load Limit
500 lbs.
Dimension A
3/4"
Dimension B
1"
Part Number: 33045T71 $8.91 Each
Type
Eyebolts
Shoulder Type
Without Shoulder
Thread Type
Fully Threaded
Material Type
Stainless Steel
Finish
Plain
Stainless Steel Type
304 Stainless Steel
Thread Size
1/4"-20
Work Load Limit
460 lbs.
Dimension A
3/4"
Dimension B
1"
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Unread 06-08-2008, 09:59 AM   #49
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Thanks for fantastic pics Norco ,I'm one of those primitives that needs to see it done ,no amount of reading will do it for me .I reckon UDS's will start taking over Australia !! Anyone ever done one in stainless steel , I know where i can lay my hands on a drum . Look pretty smart in stainless with a red weber lid !
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Unread 06-08-2008, 01:17 PM   #50
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Here are some pics of the Kiss Drum. Flexable magnets, three bolt firebox wired together to a weber 22.5 fire grate. The inside of the drum with three bolt cooking grate. The two bolt handle and lid hanger.
Was going to use swamps intake air controls idea,then remembered N8mans use of the magnets on his intake pipes and tried them. So far no problems. They adjust very easy
Attached Images
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Unread 06-08-2008, 02:00 PM   #51
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Walker, how longs it take you to bend down and reach those magnets??
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Unread 06-08-2008, 02:45 PM   #52
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Not long at all. Try this, go to your fridge peel off a magnet if there is

one, if not get one, bend over and stick it to fridge at the bottom pretty

quick and easy. Not like screwing caps on the end of nipples or fiddling

with valves. To adjust just partially cover hole with magnet. once you are

used to your drum, adjustments are few and far between. I am 6'4", have

a bad back and my barrel chest has rolled down hill I don't have a

problem doing it. Easy Peasy
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Unread 06-08-2008, 06:24 PM   #53
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Flexible magnets? Genius!
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Unread 06-08-2008, 08:56 PM   #54
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http://www.magnet4less.com/index.php?cPath=4_17

Enough to cover a lot of holes.
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Unread 06-08-2008, 09:16 PM   #55
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Having trouble with progress. not fast enough! Post lock and can't edit to add steps. Sorry for repost.

Divide drum into 3 sections





Layout grill holes.
I chose 1 3/4"" and 8" from top. You should assess the drum you are using.



Layout Intake holes.
I chose 2" from bottom.



Layout Gauge hole.
I chose 9" (1" below lower rack)



Centerpunch marks.



Drill pilot holes.







Drill holes for Intake nipples
I use 1" which lets you thread 3/4" nipple (clean round hole)







Drill out holes for Grate supports
I am going to use 1/4" bolts. I use Unibit to get clean holes in thin metal.





Open up hole for gauge.
I use 3/4" hole which is a tight fit for a 1/2" pipe thread.





Thread in 3/4" close nipples
I use cap to protect threads and screw in as far as possible.
This link will show alternative to welding nipples.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...2&postcount=40



Weld in Nipples





Install 3/4" ball valve.


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Install grate supports.
I use this set up. I go hex head in. It seems to keep grate from slipping off when setting in. Also nice when you spin grate.
I use 1 3/4" for top and 2" for bottom.





Install gauge.
Again use conduit nut that comes with gauge to lock in.






Add Handles (optional)
I got these at Home Depot in the Hardware isle by garage door section. Little tip pre-bend ears with pliers past radius of drum so they will bend and hug drum when tightened.

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Unread 06-08-2008, 09:23 PM   #56
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Here is what it is looking like. Mentally working on way to streach lip of Weber lid to fit drum. Also working fire basket/ash pan. Starting with charcoal grate from 18" weber. Measures 13.5" diam.



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Unread 06-08-2008, 09:37 PM   #57
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No need to apologize , the repletion is quite good for many that are building a UDS for the first time - I remember reading the entire UDS thread over a dozen times before building mine

and those of us that have built a UDS always seem to enjoy seeing build pic's


hey on this pic - whats the measurement from the top of the drum and does it clear a flat lid?

might as well state both measurements for the cooking grates

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Unread 06-08-2008, 09:40 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hook_Line_and_Sinker View Post
No need to apologize , the repletion is quite good for many that are building a UDS for the first time - I remember reading the entire UDS thread over a dozen times before building mine

and those of us that have built a UDS always seem to enjoy seeing build pic's


hey on this pic - whats the measurement from the top of the drum and does it clear a flat lid?

might as well state both measurements for the cooking grates
Layout grill holes.
I chose 1 3/4"" and 8" from top. You should assess the drum you are using.



Don't have a flat lid here.
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Unread 06-08-2008, 09:45 PM   #59
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[quote=Norcoredneck;657689]OK been wanting to say something but bit my lip. Most hardware you get at a standard hardware store is Steel that is either Zink plated or Cadium plated. This is those Bolts, nuts, washers, ect. in the bins, Eyebolts, brackets and what not. Things that are galvanized are usually thin cheap metal for outdor use. I was told by an old guy that they started galvanizing water pipe because it was poor quality iron and the galvanize coating sealed it and also provided a rust protectant. Zinc and Cad are also bad for you. I don't know if it gets hot enough to outgas or not. If I did not have access to the stainless I use I doubt that I would spend the probably 3X the amount of what I refer to as "'K" bolts (as in Kmart). To be safe I would hit with torch and wire brush. People might argue but that is my feeling on the matter. Those Conduit nuts are probably zinc plated. Most things with threads are Zinc not galvanized. Galvanizing is a coating that adds thickness and would plug or foul the threads. You will also find things like that that are made out of what I refer to as Pot metal. It is a really low grade aluminum alloy of sorts. It is light and looks like aluminum but it is not. Think the bottom of old Hot Wheels cars. That is pot metal. Cheap to use in manufacturing and does not rust.

Pat
Thanks for taking the time and creating a very thorough and easy to follow UDS design.

I purchased all of my 1/4" bolts-washers-nuts from Lowes in Stainless Steel ( they are in the pull-out drawers in hardware section )
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Unread 06-08-2008, 09:47 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norcoredneck View Post
OK been wanting to say something but bit my lip. Most hardware you get at a standard hardware store is Steel that is either Zink plated or Cadium plated. This is those Bolts, nuts, washers, ect. in the bins, Eyebolts, brackets and what not. Things that are galvanized are usually thin cheap metal for outdor use. I was told by an old guy that they started galvanizing water pipe because it was poor quality iron and the galvanize coating sealed it and also provided a rust protectant. Zinc and Cad are also bad for you. I don't know if it gets hot enough to outgas or not. If I did not have access to the stainless I use I doubt that I would spend the probably 3X the amount of what I refer to as "'K" bolts (as in Kmart). To be safe I would hit with torch and wire brush. People might argue but that is my feeling on the matter. Those Conduit nuts are probably zinc plated. Most things with threads are Zinc not galvanized. Galvanizing is a coating that adds thickness and would plug or foul the threads. You will also find things like that that are made out of what I refer to as Pot metal. It is a really low grade aluminum alloy of sorts. It is light and looks like aluminum but it is not. Think the bottom of old Hot Wheels cars. That is pot metal. Cheap to use in manufacturing and does not rust.



Now on the Plugs. To increase temp you just pull a plug. The screw set up Swampb came up with just makes it easier. To lower you install a plug. From one plug to 2 is a large increase but in between can be obtained by choking exhaust. Maybe Swampb can chime in and give better details.
Pat
Thanks for taking the time and creating a very thorough and easy to follow UDS design.

I purchased all of my 1/4" bolts-washers-nuts from Lowes in Stainless Steel ( they are in the pull-out drawers in hardware section )
__________________
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www.stlbbqstore.com
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