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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, Equipment and just outdoor cookin' in general, hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures... but stay on topic. And watch for that hijacking.


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Unread 04-03-2011, 09:32 PM   #7696
Fornia
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Long time watcher of this forum, now trying my hand at 2 UDS builds. I'm starting a competition team, and my teammate and I are building.

I've read a bunch of this thread, but still weary on what I should do. Any and all help greatly appreciated.

After securing most all the parts, we were down to getting the drums....which proved tough for some reason around here.

We landed drums today via craigslist. We were told they had a plastic bag inside, and the guy just removed the bag. Looks nicely painted inside actually (beige/tan), and no liner. A perfect fitting clamp on lid with gasket (which I'll remove) on the underside of lid.

http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/IMG_3162.jpg

http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/IMG_3163.jpg

We're planning to burn out and have them sandblasted, and then paint ourselves. Trying to do this part as cheap as possible, but with good results. I know... I know.

I do have a weedburner, and was wondering if I could get away on this alone to remove the paint? I got it for Christmas, have not yet used it so that’s a problem.

I have a Weber 22.5 Lid, and that sadly isn't quite large enough to fit over the drum lip. On the photo below, I centered the Weber lid on the rolled edge of the drum. It's basically that 'short' of fitting the whole way round the drum.

Is the fix here to remove the rolled lip on the drum? Or add a welded strip on inside of drum extending higher than rolled edge?

http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/x...1/IMG_3166.jpg

Again....trying to do it as economical as possible, but also functional (2 cooking grids?). I called so many local metal places/welders trying to get help with a charcoal box. Everyone tried to rip me off, so I made it myself this weekend. Now I'm dreading I'll get the same thing from sandblasters for the drum, and lid mods.

Any and all help greatly appreciated!!!!
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Unread 04-03-2011, 11:35 PM   #7697
kcchiefdav
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Fornia, I had the same problem with my weber lid. I just flatted out the lip on my lid and it sits flat on my drum now. It's not air tight, but it's far enough away from the fire that it doesn't really matter.

I should note that my weber lid is from an old useless OTS, so I didn't mind flattening the lip and donating the lid to my UDS permanently.

As far as your paint issues...I'd say you should see what a good hot fire does to that paint before you start getting quotes on sandblasting. Then again, if a hot fire doesn't get rid of all that paint, I doubt that 250 degrees of BBQ temperature will disturb it either. I know that there are some in this thread who are cooking on drums that still have paint inside of them, the paint just happens to be under a nice layer of grease at this point.
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Unread 04-04-2011, 02:21 AM   #7698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcchiefdav View Post
Fornia, I had the same problem with my weber lid. I just flatted out the lip on my lid and it sits flat on my drum now. It's not air tight, but it's far enough away from the fire that it doesn't really matter.

I should note that my weber lid is from an old useless OTS, so I didn't mind flattening the lip and donating the lid to my UDS permanently.

As far as your paint issues...I'd say you should see what a good hot fire does to that paint before you start getting quotes on sandblasting. Then again, if a hot fire doesn't get rid of all that paint, I doubt that 250 degrees of BBQ temperature will disturb it either. I know that there are some in this thread who are cooking on drums that still have paint inside of them, the paint just happens to be under a nice layer of grease at this point.
I used my weedburner to burn from the outside. I burned it till the inside paint was powder, then I took my pressure washer and cleaned it out to clean steel.

As far as the top of the drum goes, I took a die grinder and cut off the top. then i put the clamp that held the lid on around the top about an inch below the top and tightened it. This made it round again. Then I welded a 3/16" round bar to the inside of the barrel at the top. The Weber lid then fit perfectly.
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Unread 04-04-2011, 07:29 AM   #7699
LoveBBQ
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My brother can get me a 55 gallon drum from his work for free. My choices are from one that contained washer fluid concentrate or one that contained brake cleaner. He says they are unlined and that he can have the top popped for me too. Are either of these good choices or should I stick with something food grade? So far the only food grade container I've found is about an hour plus drive, but only $12.

I plan to wash the drum with warm soapy water at least twice to get any remnants out before I burn the inside. Anything else I should do?
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Unread 04-04-2011, 09:52 AM   #7700
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hey guys, I did my burn out and then once it was done, it started to rain. I got some light rust in spots on the inside of the drum, but Im not worried about that. I think that shows whatever was in the barrel is gone now.

Question is, on my S/S basket ( I threw it in the barrel during the first burn out ) , it looks like a red powder is stuck on the S/S or is that from the wood I was burning? I only included one pallet and burned all sticks/wood pieces.

Any idea on what it is?

edit: I did have an uncoated barrel. Just some rust stuff that was it. No epoxy.
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Unread 04-04-2011, 10:15 AM   #7701
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Fornia!
See how your Weber lid fits on the bottom side of your drum. Should be a lot better. If it fits, invert your drum and make the removable lid and clamp your BOTTOM. This would solve a lot of problems for you.
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Unread 04-04-2011, 10:17 AM   #7702
thetazzbot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bone In View Post
I understNd everything and can't wait to start, but what do u use under the coal basket to catch the ash so it doesn't just fall on the bottom of the drum? And I assume the coal basket sits on screws coming through the wall like the grates.

And no water pan like the WSM right?

I can't afford a WSM but these beauties I can have 2
Aluminum water heater pan seems like it may fit. I have not measured it but I eyeballed the one in my garage.
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Unread 04-04-2011, 10:36 AM   #7703
MrOneEyedBoh
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are the 4 holes in a weber kettle lie enough exhaust?
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Unread 04-04-2011, 10:54 AM   #7704
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I'm curious as to what paint you're all using for the glossy finishes. Is it engine paint? and do you notice any where near the bottom around the fire basket? I currently have the high heat flat black stuff, but want to color my UDS up and make it shiny.
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Unread 04-04-2011, 10:59 AM   #7705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoveBBQ View Post
My brother can get me a 55 gallon drum from his work for free. My choices are from one that contained washer fluid concentrate or one that contained brake cleaner. He says they are unlined and that he can have the top popped for me too. Are either of these good choices or should I stick with something food grade? So far the only food grade container I've found is about an hour plus drive, but only $12.

I plan to wash the drum with warm soapy water at least twice to get any remnants out before I burn the inside. Anything else I should do?
The food safe barrels will actually have a liner in them making them more of a PITA. Just do a burn. Mine is a recycled windshield washer fluid drum.
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Unread 04-04-2011, 11:04 AM   #7706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IrregularPulse View Post
I'm curious as to what paint you're all using for the glossy finishes. Is it engine paint? and do you notice any where near the bottom around the fire basket? I currently have the high heat flat black stuff, but want to color my UDS up and make it shiny.

You can use engine or header paint available at auto parts house.I used purple and yellow on mine-LSU Tigers.
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Unread 04-04-2011, 11:11 AM   #7707
MrOneEyedBoh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IrregularPulse View Post
I'm curious as to what paint you're all using for the glossy finishes. Is it engine paint? and do you notice any where near the bottom around the fire basket? I currently have the high heat flat black stuff, but want to color my UDS up and make it shiny.
yeah, just make sure when you paint it, do all the coats you want within the first hour. And then you have to let the paint cure ( think dont touch/use ) for 7 days. This will let the paint harden etc. It will get a tad harder when you use it the first time because of the heat but yeah. Let it sit.
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Unread 04-04-2011, 11:13 AM   #7708
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Thanks, that's what I was looking at but was concerned about the 600°F limit
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Unread 04-04-2011, 11:13 AM   #7709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrOneEyedBoh View Post
yeah, just make sure when you paint it, do all the coats you want within the first hour. And then you have to let the paint cure ( think dont touch/use ) for 7 days. This will let the paint harden etc. It will get a tad harder when you use it the first time because of the heat but yeah. Let it sit.
Thanks, will do. I'll see what colors my local autozone has tonight after work.
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Unread 04-04-2011, 11:15 AM   #7710
MrOneEyedBoh
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I bet you they will have TONS. Duplicolor's high heat line has a zillion colors and it doesnt have to be header it can be the engine stuff too.

If you have a Pep Boys or an ADvanced Auto, those have the biggest selection for me at least.
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