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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, Equipment and just outdoor cookin' in general, hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures... but stay on topic. And watch for that hijacking.


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Unread 03-20-2009, 08:28 PM   #2641
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Mark is the true spendthrift. If he could forge the metal himself he would. Wood is the only thing for him mostly because it's free. Of course I'd do the same thing if I could figure out how to make my own chunks smaller than 6 inches without destroying one of my saws.
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Unread 03-20-2009, 08:40 PM   #2642
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What I'm trying to figure out is the ideal cart for the new drum. I've seen a lot of them on here and I'm torn between putting one on permanently and making it stowable.
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Unread 03-20-2009, 09:06 PM   #2643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bbq Bubba View Post
No more rusty nipples.
Magnets are your friend!
Stainless Steel "Slide Control"......

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Unread 03-20-2009, 11:48 PM   #2644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark View Post
I still recommend this method:
Needs more wheels...
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Unread 03-21-2009, 01:57 AM   #2645
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[quote=Norcoredneck;879508]It doesn't exactly spray. Don't want to seem like a know it all but my dad was in on the beginning of the powdercoat process. He ran a wheel company. They bought one of the first powder coat lines sold. Ithe clean piece is electracally (?) charged and so is the powder. A low pressure air or kinda "poof" is blown on the part and it is drawn to the part. Then it is put in the oven. Process is great. 400 is the minimum temp to start process. About the only way I had ever seen him get it off or strip it is with extreme temps. Great coating.


You are correct. I run a powder coat paint booth were I work, we only use gloss black but there are all kinds of colors and all kinds of finishes. We use to use a hybrid powder paint that required a 425 degree cure for about 30 minutes but now for conservation of propane we use a standard powder coat that only requires 320 degree cure and as little as 15 minutes cure time.

Not being an electrician or tech I don't know how you would achieve the required charge to make the powder stick I do know that it is an extremely low charge something I think you would only need a flashlight battery set up to make work for short durations.

Low air pressure is inportant because to much pressure will just blow the powder off and away from the part causing thin layers and holladays in the finish. The part must be free of any grease or lubercant or the powder will not stick and slide down the part like a run with conventional paint when it is cured. It will look fine when you put a coat on but will show up after it is cured. You can just grind off any paint defects and spry that area again.

If we have a bad powder coat job which happens daily we have an oven that burns the powder coat off at 1400 degrees for 5 hours. It does not have to be that hot but we make radiators and they of course have hundreds sometimes thousands of nooks and crannies and this heat will reach all the inside painted areas. Powder coating should stand up to the heat of a uds with no problem but they do also make a high heat coating. Please don't paint the inside of your uds.

The only problem I can see with powder coating a uds is the uniformity of heat distribution during a cure process, if you were to build a fire inside the barrel being much hotter at the top then around the bottom especially under the fire livel. Maybe setting the uds up on a fire grate of some sort and building a fire with charcoal not wood, being carful not to let flames lick aroud the ouside schorching the paint. Leave the lid on to keep heat in and curing the lid in the process. I don't know just thinking out load here.

A person may want to try to locate a powder coating shop around there location, it may be worth while even if you have to spend a little. The major expense would be in prep and set up, it takes very little paint but by the time you buy the spraying unit the paint and figure out how to cure it, prep the uds, ie., taping off any threaded parts, holes and any areas you may not want painted, well you get the idea. I would also think it would be just about as cheap to do a couple drums at the same time, if going to a shop.
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Unread 03-21-2009, 06:47 AM   #2646
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Question UDS Drum advice

Hello, everyone this is my first post. I have been soaking up bbq knowledge and making some great food by lurking the forum for the last 3 weeks. After reading many posts I think I am ready to build my own UDS. I would like to say thank you to everyone's dedication and information shared. Being that I am in Australia the food drums are a bit different here. I have the opportunity to acquire the jewel of a steel drum shown below. According to the seller, it is food quality and from what I see it already has a tap and lid! I also managed to salvage a weber 22.5 from imminent doom. I plan on using the lid of the weber as a top to the uds. The diameter of the drum is 600 mm (23.622 047 244 in) and the height of the drum is 1050mm (41.338 582 677 in).

My question is, do you uds experts think this size drum will work?
Thank you all again for all your inspiration!

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Unread 03-21-2009, 07:27 AM   #2647
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Welcome to the ultimate UDS World Cisco! That barrel looks beautiful. Is it Stainless Steel? As long as it is not galvanized metal the barrel should be perfect and the extra height, most barrels here are 36" tall, will allow for a second grate with room to spare. Happy building.
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Unread 03-21-2009, 08:06 AM   #2648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD McGee View Post
Stainless Steel "Slide Control"......

Hows that workin for ya JD, i still want to build one of those!
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Unread 03-21-2009, 10:14 AM   #2649
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[quote=Mo-Dave;882955]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norcoredneck View Post
It doesn't exactly spray. Don't want to seem like a know it all but my dad was in on the beginning of the powdercoat process. He ran a wheel company. They bought one of the first powder coat lines sold. Ithe clean piece is electracally (?) charged and so is the powder. A low pressure air or kinda "poof" is blown on the part and it is drawn to the part. Then it is put in the oven. Process is great. 400 is the minimum temp to start process. About the only way I had ever seen him get it off or strip it is with extreme temps. Great coating.


You are correct. I run a powder coat paint booth were I work, we only use gloss black but there are all kinds of colors and all kinds of finishes. We use to use a hybrid powder paint that required a 425 degree cure for about 30 minutes but now for conservation of propane we use a standard powder coat that only requires 320 degree cure and as little as 15 minutes cure time.

Not being an electrician or tech I don't know how you would achieve the required charge to make the powder stick I do know that it is an extremely low charge something I think you would only need a flashlight battery set up to make work for short durations.

Low air pressure is inportant because to much pressure will just blow the powder off and away from the part causing thin layers and holladays in the finish. The part must be free of any grease or lubercant or the powder will not stick and slide down the part like a run with conventional paint when it is cured. It will look fine when you put a coat on but will show up after it is cured. You can just grind off any paint defects and spry that area again.

If we have a bad powder coat job which happens daily we have an oven that burns the powder coat off at 1400 degrees for 5 hours. It does not have to be that hot but we make radiators and they of course have hundreds sometimes thousands of nooks and crannies and this heat will reach all the inside painted areas. Powder coating should stand up to the heat of a uds with no problem but they do also make a high heat coating. Please don't paint the inside of your uds.

The only problem I can see with powder coating a uds is the uniformity of heat distribution during a cure process, if you were to build a fire inside the barrel being much hotter at the top then around the bottom especially under the fire livel. Maybe setting the uds up on a fire grate of some sort and building a fire with charcoal not wood, being carful not to let flames lick aroud the ouside schorching the paint. Leave the lid on to keep heat in and curing the lid in the process. I don't know just thinking out load here.

A person may want to try to locate a powder coating shop around there location, it may be worth while even if you have to spend a little. The major expense would be in prep and set up, it takes very little paint but by the time you buy the spraying unit the paint and figure out how to cure it, prep the uds, ie., taping off any threaded parts, holes and any areas you may not want painted, well you get the idea. I would also think it would be just about as cheap to do a couple drums at the same time, if going to a shop.
Dave
I talked a little more to my guy who does this and he said that the coating I had put on my drums does get shot out of a sprayer that electricly charges the pait particles and the items to be painted, get grounded as well as him self. It also gets a clear with uv pretectant over the top. He said if I wanted to, I could watch him next time, I might just do that.
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Unread 03-21-2009, 10:49 AM   #2650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bbq Bubba View Post
Hows that workin for ya JD, i still want to build one of those!
It works awesome! Temps come up quick when fully open and settle in nicely to cruise along @ 225-250 all day long with no fussin'. I can get a big ol' wiggle rod in there and even take a peek at the basket if I want to.
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Unread 03-21-2009, 11:25 AM   #2651
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looks like a good idea
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Unread 03-23-2009, 12:31 PM   #2652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thawley View Post
Needs more wheels...
I was thinking more like putting it on bobcat tracks
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Unread 03-23-2009, 12:36 PM   #2653
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chinesebob wrote but apparently deleted the following
***************
Mark is the true spendthrift. If he could forge the metal himself he would. Wood is the only thing for him mostly because it's free. Of course I'd do the same thing if I could figure out how to make my own chunks smaller than 6 inches without destroying one of my saws.
***************
I don't know why you deleted this Bob. I'd like to encourage people to burn wood instead of charcoal. Yes; even in a UDS. It's been quite some time since we discussed wood chunking methods.

Where should I start? In a new thread?
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Unread 03-23-2009, 05:52 PM   #2654
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Mark, do you still get the long burn time? I have Kiawe wood (mesquite) available on a consistent basis.
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Unread 03-24-2009, 08:35 AM   #2655
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No: You got to tend the fire. What you want to do is establish a nice bed of embers then just feed it chunks.
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