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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, Equipment and just outdoor cookin' in general, hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures... but stay on topic. And watch for that hijacking.


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Unread 11-16-2008, 07:50 PM   #1966
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All of the best ideas from this thread!


By imn88fan
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Unread 11-16-2008, 08:31 PM   #1967
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Forgive me oh Drum master, as i have not completed my pimping out yet!

How'd you like my Fatman ballvalve extension?
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Unread 11-16-2008, 08:34 PM   #1968
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Forgive me oh Drum master, as i have not completed my pimping out yet!

How'd you like my Fatman ballvalve extension?
Question is do you like it? Fire it up yet?
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Unread 11-16-2008, 08:38 PM   #1969
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Started a thread......I think i'll love it!
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Unread 11-16-2008, 09:13 PM   #1970
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Originally Posted by fordman View Post
Just wondering how you all clean your grill grates they are big and a pain in the a** to move around in the kit sink.

I have a blue 55gal plastic drum bottom, cut off the bottom 3rd. Put about 3 inches of water in, add some simple green, place teh grrill and other greasy items in then soak overnight; wash off in the morning. Dry it off reall good and hang in the garage till next cook.

CAUTION .. keep open pails of water away from small kids.
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Unread 11-16-2008, 09:29 PM   #1971
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I have a blue 55gal plastic drum bottom, cut off the bottom 3rd. Put about 3 inches of water in, add some simple green, place teh grrill and other greasy items in then soak overnight; wash off in the morning. Dry it off reall good and hang in the garage till next cook.
Farking brilliant!
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Unread 11-16-2008, 09:31 PM   #1972
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Originally Posted by Norcoredneck View Post

Too purty to get dirty!

But not for long .. already seasoned with its "first cook" Ran a 10lb brisket through it today.

Thanks again for the firebox idea .. as you can see I plagiarized your build. Was able to load with bag of briquettes .. got a 13hr cook out of it with ease. Held 230* nicely .. after about 8hrs I started loosing temp .. kicked the drum to loose up the ash and back to normal temps.
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Unread 11-17-2008, 08:47 AM   #1973
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What about making this butterfly valve go one farther and make up some ash pushers out of 2" x 1/8" Angle Iron? that would serve to push the ash off as well as control the air flow?... kind of like a one touch weber?
That would probably work to plow away excessive ash, but with my design (using the diffuser plate between the bottom of the barrel and the firebox), there is no ash in or around the "butterfly valve."
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Unread 11-17-2008, 04:30 PM   #1974
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BBq buba can you post some close ups of your ball valve mod?
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Unread 11-17-2008, 05:50 PM   #1975
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That would probably work to plow away excessive ash, but with my design (using the diffuser plate between the bottom of the barrel and the firebox), there is no ash in or around the "butterfly valve."

Im thinking of this as a means to do away with the ash pan or any cleaning what so ever. So what if the bottom rots out after a few years. Im thinking as long as it is used frequently and kept dry it probably wont be an issue for a long time. I wonder how long it would last?
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Unread 11-17-2008, 10:10 PM   #1976
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The outperformer ended up working great. Wish I had a Weber I could experiment with for a quick easy build.
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Unread 11-17-2008, 10:23 PM   #1977
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To be honest, Ive had this idea way back in my brain for a couple of weeks.. NORCO.. you are the brain to pick.. The paddles could be 1/8" x 3" angle that would have to be closed on the ends for air control. Im also thinking about some uprights to attatch the charcoal basket to (shaker mod) that would be attatched to the valve assembly?
Im also thinking some kind of cheap bearing or brass bushing so it dont seize up like some of the weber one touches Ive been snagging lately (although the Weber replacement kit is only $10)
Sooner or later... when I get a "Round two-it", I will just say FARKIT and built one. But for now, Id appreciate any thoughts or feedback anyone has so Im headed in the right direction when I do get inspired.
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Unread 11-17-2008, 10:56 PM   #1978
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Trouble with a clased head drum is that the metal is kinda thin. It deforms pretty easy. Marks drum was Stainless and I would bet is thicker. Those numbers you see on the side are a type of DOT code18/20/20/12 (top/body/bottom/ring) These actually tell what specs. UN1A2/Y425/S; UN1A2/Y1.2/100
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Unread 11-17-2008, 11:01 PM   #1979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norcoredneck View Post
Trouble with a clased head drum is that the metal is kinda thin. It deforms pretty easy. Marks drum was Stainless and I would bet is thicker. Those numbers you see on the side are a type of DOT code18/20/20/12 (top/body/bottom/ring) These actually tell what specs. UN1A2/Y425/S; UN1A2/Y1.2/100

Clased? enlighten me on that one
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Unread 11-18-2008, 12:38 AM   #1980
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Quote:
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Clased? enlighten me on that one
Getto spelling for closed.
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