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Unread 11-11-2013, 03:31 PM   #16
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Could it be your thermo is reading directly over your food?

Move your thermo to just below your cooking rack for more accurate reads. I agree with the elbows and risers, they hurt the performance of a drum.
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Unread 11-11-2013, 04:06 PM   #17
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I have used briquettes in my drum 1 time a 5lb bag of matchlight to start my burn out pre build. I burn nothing but Lump in it Never has given me a problem I can go 14 hrs at 300+ or over 20 hrs at 250. The key is to let it sit & burn awhile before you close it up
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Unread 11-11-2013, 04:16 PM   #18
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Elbows and riser sound like the problem to me, if you want to run risers you will need to increase the size. JMHO
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Unread 11-11-2013, 04:21 PM   #19
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First off, lump should require less airflow than briqs. Second, lump doesn't soak up moisture like briqs. I've never had any issues using lump in my uds or any cooker. the only change in performance is more btu's when you need them. I like cooking at higher temps, so lump fits my needs perfectly.

I agree with Bludawg about the intakes, and restricted airflow. If I were going to do a fat man mod, I'd use 2" pipe and use a fridge magnet or sheet metal slide to control air flow. Not a fan of ball valves at all.
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Unread 11-11-2013, 04:50 PM   #20
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I would check to see how close to the birds your pit temp gauge is. If they are close to the meat, you will get wrong readings. Move the probe at least 2-3 inches away from the nearest bird. Also get rid of the 90* elbows and use only one valve with the other 3 just short nipples with a cap on them for easy removal.

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Unread 11-16-2013, 09:41 AM   #21
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Was having a similar problem. I didn't have my vents open enough. New to Q though, so was a learning experience.
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Unread 11-16-2013, 09:56 AM   #22
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One thing that wasn't mentioned yet... Pits (at least UDS types) need more air to get hot when cooking whole chickens then any other meat. IMO it has something to do with the moisture the chickens put out that contributes to evaporative cooling of the pit.

I could do a high heat butt (325-350) and will need half of the air that i'd need for a chicken cooking at the same temps
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Unread 11-16-2013, 12:14 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Bludawg View Post
Your Proble is HERE!!!
Every 90 deg turn you pur in a line restricts its flow by 50%. in the simplest terms 4X.75= 3/2= 1.5 1.5/4=.375 so your 3/4" intakes are now 3/8" Solution:> Get rid of those Elbows on 3 of your intakes and use 1 valve. Then do this:
Take that farkn diffuser out start with at least 1/2 chimney of hot stuff and leave the lid off at start up until the thermo hits 200 then put the lid on and let it settle in then put on the meat.
This is essentially the problem. I put risers on all 4 intakes of my big drum (1 with a pipe valve, fat man mod) and couldn't get the drum up to temps high enough to crisp up chicken. I initially had just 1 intake on a riser, the other 3 were at the bottom of the drum, but I thought I would be clever and add risers to all of the intakes. Bad move - once the other risers were added, I couldn't hit high temps anymore. The pipe valves are actually much narrower than you think - turn the valve open and look inside. My solution was to add one more big intake (1.25") at the bottom with just a nipple and cap on it, no bends or valve on it. It was easier than taking apart the other intakes and messing with them.

I call it the chicken hole - whenever I need higher temps (chicken, hot n fast cooks) I open that one up too and the UDS can chug along.
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