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Competition BBQ *On Topic Only* Discussion regarding all aspects of Competition BBQ. Experiences competing or visiting, questions, getting started, Equipment, announcements of events, Results, Reviews, Planning, etc. Questions here will be responded to with competition BBQ in mind.


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Old 10-25-2013, 05:08 PM   #1
sdbbq1234
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Default Comp trailer things to consider

We are in the market for a competition type trailer. Aside from having the luxury of a porch unit, this post is requesting items that the basic trailer should have, or that we should/would consider.

Things like: Flooring - what type material, what thickness, undercoating? Framing - what type material, spacing of the "studs", floor studs/framing?

I don't know squat about this stuff, so, nothing is too basic for me.

I am looking for a basic built unit, basic inside wall covering, etc.. Due to the fact I am not rich , I would like to finish the inside wiring, walls, lights, plumbing, etc..., myself.

I know there were some threads about this, so if anyone can recall those links as well, that would be great.

Thanks.

wallace
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:20 PM   #2
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Our old trailer had rubber coin flooring in it. It gives some padding, good traction if it gets wet, and is very easy to clean.



Otherwise, make sure that you have enough head room after the ceiling is finished. Our old trailer was 6'6" inside and after finishing the ceiling and adding lights I barely cleared the lights (I'm 6'2")
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Old 10-25-2013, 06:04 PM   #3
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I would make sure it was able to carry more weight than what you have now incase you want to grow... Heavy duty axels with good trailer brakes then add a break box in your truck.... Also a bull dog hitch.
I am working on a build myself and these were on top of my list.
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Old 10-25-2013, 06:07 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shiz-Nit View Post
I would make sure it was able to carry more weight than what you have now incase you want to grow... Heavy duty axels with good trailer brakes then add a break box in your truck.... Also a bull dog hitch.
I am working on a build myself and these were on top of my list.
Thanks. Probably a dumb question, but what is a bull dog hitch?

Thanks!

wallace
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Old 10-25-2013, 06:10 PM   #5
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Old 10-25-2013, 07:08 PM   #6
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To save weight, we did the floors with a bedliner product called Herculiner. Goes on with a roller. Cost was about $300. Factory wanted $900. Similar to Rhino Liner.Think about insulating walls and ceiling. Nothing hotter or colder than a big tin box.
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Old 10-25-2013, 07:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdbbq1234 View Post
Thanks. Probably a dumb question, but what is a bull dog hitch?

Thanks!

wallace
This... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0y5CLIE6cN4
Also a lock is made to go in place of the pin which intern makes it harder for thieves to cut the lock and make off with your equipment... Many a smokers and trailers have been stolen when on the road traveling to wake up heart broken.
Also the safety of the hitch it insures me my trailer will not pass me while driving down the road.
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Old 10-26-2013, 08:24 AM   #8
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Check with your local health department and see what they allow as well. Even if you don't do the food truck thing with your trailer, future owners might and you don't want to put in a flooring that isn't going to be acceptable. Some rubberized floorings aren't allowed here.
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Old 10-26-2013, 09:22 AM   #9
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We had a couple of windows that slid open and had screens plus an RV-type door with a screen door added to ours. It really helped keep it cool on hot days.
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Old 10-27-2013, 03:15 PM   #10
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Thanks for the tips and info.

Is thee a standard floor type used (plywood, particle board, marine plywood, etc...)?

Also, is there a standard thickness to the flooring?

Thanks.

wallace
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Old 10-27-2013, 07:42 PM   #11
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When choosing a cargo trailer, make sure it has Dexter axles. The cheap ones use Chinese units that will cost you plenty to replace when they go bendy.
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Old 10-27-2013, 08:17 PM   #12
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Consider what you will be pulling it with and how much gas milage you are willing to lose. Every pound on the trailer translates into gas usage. I know that creature comforts are not a high consideration but, if your other half goes, then bathroom, shower and ac are a way to get her more enthuseastic about the project and the money expended. Use FRP for the walls and ceiling as they are hd acceptable. Shop for the thinner sheets of FRP because of weight. Use lots of insulation, blue sheets from Home Depot are the right thickeness for the wall struts, between the tin and inner walls. Watch your final weight as you add things, even the floor needs to be weighted prior to installation. There are trade offs for things if you approach the max weight of the trailer. Have fun with your project.
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:52 AM   #13
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I would very highly recommend that you purchase the NFPA 1192 and read it extremely carefully. It spells out all the standards that should be followed for trailer wiring, plumbing, LP gas, etc.

Russ
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:47 AM   #14
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We chose plywood walls so that we could attach stuff easier than with frp. With frp you have to find a strut for mounting an item. Our ceiling is frp. We went with the wire closet shelves to save weight. It is a trade off, comfort and convenience or weight.

Our work tables are now down the left side rather than in front.

This is a 7x14 with v front. Like your house, you will expand to fill the space.
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Last edited by Cayman1; 04-19-2015 at 06:07 PM..
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:40 PM   #15
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Looking at the picture, I calculate an additional 500-750 pounds of axle weight. Goes to previous post about weight and gas milage.
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