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Competition BBQ *On Topic Only* Discussion regarding all aspects of Competition BBQ. Experiences competing or visiting, questions, getting started, Equipment, announcements of events, Results, Reviews, Planning, etc. Questions here will be responded to with competition BBQ in mind.


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Unread 07-10-2013, 10:43 PM   #1
jmoney7269
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Default Competition Motorhome blowing 30a main breaker

Got a 2000 fleetwood bounder in mint contition from my moms bf for a hell of a deal just needing minor repairs here and there. The most recent repair was a converter went out and I replaced the old single phase 45a with a new 4 phase electronic 60a converter. Now in the Hott Texas heat both ac's run all the time + the converter. I figure the A/C's pull 12a each and that leaves not much room for a 30a service. Is there any way that I can wire it up differently so that it don't pop a breaker? I'm goin to replace it tomorrow with hopes of the breaker just being wore out using it for a year at max capacity on the main breaker.
Any food vendors or Motorhome owners please give some hypothetical suggestions. I got a comp this weekend. It does not blow breakers if I have the converter unplugged. I'm just wandering how long two 12v batteries in series 120aH will run the 12v climate control system. Thanks!


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Unread 07-11-2013, 12:32 AM   #2
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Is it tripping while running or when the compressor/s start. I believe the controller is supposed to alternate between AC's when current demand is high.
If it trips when the compressors start you can install hard start capacitors on the compressors http://www.modmyrv.com/2009/05/27/rv...tart-capacitor.
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Unread 07-11-2013, 12:45 AM   #3
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I had an older 30 amp motor home, but now in a 50 amp rig.

I DID have to replace my 30 amp breaker. They can wear out, especially when subject to dodgy generator power at contests. I had a SINGLE AC unit, and the old 30 amp breaker would still pop if the AC ran for a few hours on a hot day.

The batteries will probably run the 12v all weekend if they are in good shape, but if it were my motorhome I wouldn't run without the converter. Note that you have other 12v draws besides the climate control unit. Your refrigerator, even when running off propane, is using 12v. Same goes for the propane water heater. You aren't using these in electric mode, right?

Your electronic climate control unit (ECC) is supposed to perform load shedding (shutdown down an AC unit) when the load approaches 30 amps. Does it do that? Have you tested it to make sure that feature is working correctly?

Do you HAVE a true 30 amp input? The ECC only works with 30 amps. If you are on a 20 AMP circuit, you have to manage the power yourself. At comps, it's not uncommon to see the electric not deliver what was promised. The "30 amp" power at Pork in the Park in Maryland was running at 99 volts in the section where I was. That will pop breakers, or even damage electric motors. You should note your converter isn't supposed to run when the AC is under 105 volts. I monitor the input power at contests, and run my generator if I'm under 105 volts. This is not an uncommon occurrence. (You can buy devices to cut off main power when it isn't meeting standards. See http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ )

The new converter can draw up to 1000 watts on the 110v input side (see your photo). A 15 amp circuit @ 110v is 1650 watts. A 12 amp AC unit draws about 1350 watts, but probably more when the compressor starts. Some motorhomes have AC units larger than 12amps, too. If the batteries are low and charging at full power, and/or there is a high 12v load, the converter is drawing about 2/3 of what an AC unit draws. Your ECC should kick off an AC if that is the case. If it's working properly, I think you are right to start off by replacing the 30amp main breaker.
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Unread 07-11-2013, 06:29 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBQ View Post
batteries will probably run the 12v all weekend if they are in good shape, but if it were my motorhome I wouldn't run without the converter. Note that you have other 12v draws besides the climate control unit. Your refrigerator, even when running off propane, is using 12v. Same goes for the propane water heater. You aren't using these in electric mode, right?

Your electronic climate control unit (ECC) is supposed to perform load shedding (shutdown down an AC unit) when the load approaches 30 amps. Does it do that? Have you tested it to make sure that feature is working correctly?

Do you HAVE a true 30 amp input? The ECC only works with 30 amps. If you are on a 20 AMP circuit, you have to manage the power yourself. At comps, it's not uncommon to see the electric not deliver what was promised. The "30 amp" power at Pork in the Park in Maryland was running at 99 volts in the section where I was. That will pop breakers, or even damage electric motors. You should note your converter isn't supposed to run when the AC is under 105 volts. I monitor the input power at contests, and run my generator if I'm under 105 volts. This is not an uncommon occurrence. (You can buy devices to cut off main power when it isn't meeting standards. See http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ )

The new converter can draw up to 1000 watts on the 110v input side (see your photo). A 15 amp circuit @ 110v is 1650 watts. A 12 amp AC unit draws about 1350 watts, but probably more when the compressor starts. Some motorhomes have AC units larger than 12amps, too. If the batteries are low and charging at full power, and/or there is a high 12v load, the converter is drawing about 2/3 of what an AC unit draws. Your ECC should kick off an AC if that is the case. If it's working properly, I think you are right to start off by replacing the 30amp main breaker.
now that i think about it, the load shedding process does work properly. when i run both air conditioners and if i say use the microwave, it kicks the back ac off. i am running off a true 30a hookup squareD shore power. i never had this problem before so im just hoping that the breaker is wore out. gonna replace it today if i can find it. my last hope is a electrical supply down the road. no place that i have neen to yet has carried the Cutler Hammer BR breakers in the size i need. its a 30/20
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Unread 07-11-2013, 09:24 AM   #5
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I would also try the breaker first. do the main and the one that controls the ac
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Unread 07-11-2013, 11:57 AM   #6
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I would also try the breaker first. do the main and the one that controls the ac
thanks, not to change the subject, but do you have another handle called jimsbarbecue or something like that. like on pelletheads?
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Unread 07-11-2013, 10:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmoney7269 View Post
now that i think about it, the load shedding process does work properly. when i run both air conditioners and if i say use the microwave, it kicks the back ac off. i am running off a true 30a hookup squareD shore power. i never had this problem before so im just hoping that the breaker is wore out. gonna replace it today if i can find it. my last hope is a electrical supply down the road. no place that i have neen to yet has carried the Cutler Hammer BR breakers in the size i need. its a 30/20
Ya, if the load shedding works, try swapping the breakers.

Try checking RV dealer parts departments and places like campingworld.com for the breakers if you aren't having any luck with the electrical supply houses. They will have common RV sizes, and the Bounder is a pretty popular model.
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