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Old 10-25-2011, 11:27 AM   #1
kartman35
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Default A few UDS questions

Just finished my first UDS build and I have a few questions I haven't been able to find the answers to.

1. Regarding the black metal parts for the intake, they're kinda oily and nasty out of the bag...I've seen where some guys paint 'em, but I thought were not s'posed to have paint inside the pit...should I burn 'em?, clean them in alcohol and treat with vegetable oil? leave as is?..I saw one guy who put two coats of primer and two coats of paint on them and I wonder how they still thread together after all that...Also the conduit nuts from the electrical section that hold them on...aren't they galvanized?

2. The expanded metal that I got for the firebox is a little rusty...does that matter at all?

3. All the hardware I bought for inside the drum was stainless...however for the fender washers to hold the expando together (no weld build) all I could find was plated steel. How bad is that? In the meantime I'm holding it all together with .032 stainless safety wire I had left over from my kart racing days, but I'd rather have it bolted.

4. If I fire her up tomorrow (first fire) and if the temps level off can I cook on it right away? She'll be all covered in pam on the inside so can I season while I cook? I'd certainly let it burn for an hour or two at least to let the rustoleum paint smell go away...If not why not? I started with a new barrel and burned the paint off with a propane torch/repainted so the inside should be clean (except maybe for the black metal see question #1)

Thanks in advance for any advice

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Old 10-25-2011, 11:32 AM   #2
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1. Regarding the black metal parts for the intake, they're kinda oily and nasty out of the bag...I've seen where some guys paint 'em, but I thought were not s'posed to have paint inside the pit...should I burn 'em?, clean them in alcohol and treat with vegetable oil? leave as is?..I saw one guy who put two coats of primer and two coats of paint on them and I wonder how they still thread together after all that...Also the conduit nuts from the electrical section that hold them on...aren't they galvanized?

Just paint them on the outside. The oil on them now keeps them from rusting but they will eventually rust if you do not paint them.

2. The expanded metal that I got for the firebox is a little rusty...does that matter at all?

No, that is fine. It will soon be burned off or covered in grease.

3. All the hardware I bought for inside the drum was stainless...however for the fender washers to hold the expando together (no weld build) all I could find was plated steel. How bad is that? In the meantime I'm holding it all together with .032 stainless safety wire I had left over from my kart racing days, but I'd rather have it bolted.

Zinc plated? I believe you could soak them in vinegar to remove the plating.

4. If I fire her up tomorrow (first fire) and if the temps level off can I cook on it right away? She'll be all covered in pam on the inside so can I season while I cook? I'd certainly let it burn for an hour or two at least to let the rustoleum paint smell go away...If not why not? I started with a new barrel and burned the paint off with a propane torch/repainted so the inside should be clean (except maybe for the black metal see question #1)

You need to season the inside. Get a can of Pam and spray down all the bare metal on the inside. Then do a hot burn. It is customary and should be mandatory to cook a fatty during this process.
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Old 10-25-2011, 11:32 AM   #3
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The black pipe is coated with oil to keep it from getting rusty. Just clean it off. If you don't want it to rust then you can paint it. Any paint that gets on the inside of the intake will not be an issue.
Nothing you can do about rust on firebox. first few cooks it'll be coated in fat and ash.
Don't sweat the plated washers. Cooker won't get hot enough to burn the plating.
I'd let it get nice and hot for awhile then if there are no nasty fumes try something cheap to smoke for the first time. I threw on some potatos and moink balls for my first cook. Even straight bacon is good on the smoker
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Old 10-25-2011, 11:36 AM   #4
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'Nuff said!
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Old 10-25-2011, 11:52 AM   #5
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The melting point of zinc is 787.15*F. Unless you plan on getting your UDS that hot, I wouldn't worry about it one bit.
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Old 10-25-2011, 12:16 PM   #6
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Wrap the threads with some masking tape, then run some wire through the pipe, form a hook on the top and bottom to hold the pipe put some of the tape over the holes then spray. Hang the pipe somewhere convenient to dry and spray a couple more times if you like, remove tape and there you go. Clean the pipe first with either alcohol, paint thinner, gasoline or just plan soap and water and let dry good. I would use high heat spray paint and forget the primer, just put a couple coats or more on them. Conduit nuts will be just fine as is.
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Old 10-25-2011, 12:16 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bover View Post
The melting point of zinc is 787.15*F. Unless you plan on getting your UDS that hot, I wouldn't worry about it one bit.
Ditto, common sense prevails!
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Old 10-25-2011, 12:39 PM   #8
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Default I'm not sure I understand this one...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mo-Dave View Post
Wrap the threads with some masking tape, then run some wire through the pipe, form a hook on the top and bottom to hold the pipe put some of the tape over the holes then spray. Hang the pipe somewhere convenient to dry and spray a couple more times if you like, remove tape and there you go. Clean the pipe first with either alcohol, paint thinner, gasoline or just plan soap and water and let dry good. I would use high heat spray paint and forget the primer, just put a couple coats or more on them. Conduit nuts will be just fine as is.
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If I cover the threads with tape (the entire nipple is threaded) and cover the holes with tape...am i not just spray painting the tape?
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Old 10-25-2011, 01:18 PM   #9
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[QUOTE=kartman35;1828982]If I cover the threads with tape (the entire nipple is threaded) and cover the holes with tape...am i not just spray painting the tape?[/QUOTE


How long are these nipples? In this case turn you drum upside down after you install the nipples with the conduit nuts secured both inside and out or put it up on blocks or something to get it up high enough to be able to spray all sides. Then put on the cap and spray away. You could protect the uds from over spray with some tape and paper, if you feel it necessary. After taking another look at your uds I don't think I would paint it at all.
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Old 10-25-2011, 01:22 PM   #10
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Most important thing-have plenty of cold beer on hand
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Old 10-25-2011, 05:13 PM   #11
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Is the cold beer for us watching on the sidelines? I hope so

To original poster. I wouldn't worry too much about painting the threads. The threads are tapered and the conduit nuts will start. any set of slip joint pliers will take care of the rest. Put this drum together and get cookin! Build a 2nd and make it with all the improvements from what you learned on the first one.
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Old 10-26-2011, 09:44 AM   #12
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Sounds like you worry about little things more than I do.

I had many of the same concerns, but then after reading a few uds posts, I learned to relax and just start cookin stuff.

Coat the inside with veg oil, run a hot (350+) fire for a few hours, cook something, enjoy, pat yourself on the back.
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:29 AM   #13
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Default Thank you thank you thank you

Ok so regarding the black metal bits, i just washed off the oily stuff with some alcohol and re oiled them using vegetable oil. I then did my seasoning burn with vegetable oil rubbed all over the inside, and using a leaf blower attachment on my shop vac I got the temps up over 400 and let her stay there for a few hours.
I then ran to the grocery store and by around 10:30 pm dinner was finally ready. They turned out pretty good for a first run.

Thanks to all who replied and all who've posted info regarding UDS construction and use. I couldn't have done it without ya!!


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Old 10-27-2011, 09:42 AM   #14
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Looking good!!!
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:46 AM   #15
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All that talk about nipples......well never mind, :)

P.S. They look great.
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