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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, equipment and outdoor cookin' . ** Other cooking techniques are welcomed for when your cookin' in the kitchen. Post your hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures, but stay on topic and watch for that hijacking.


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Old 10-03-2009, 07:56 PM   #46
HARRYSTOWN
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You should name it The DeLorean!
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Old 10-03-2009, 08:35 PM   #47
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Insted of UDS..why not PDS for "pretty" drum smoker, or SDS for "shiny"drum smoker.
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Old 10-03-2009, 08:38 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azkitch View Post
That's stinkin' b YOO tiful!!
Awwww, shuckssss........really??????

Thanks,

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Old 10-04-2009, 06:11 PM   #49
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Hey Paul- I measured my drum, and it's exactly 23-1/32". My Weber lid is about 1/4" too small. You can kind of balance it on there, but I don't like it. I'm going to call Arctic tomorrow and see if they'll sell me a lid. If it's too small, I'm going to add a strip of SS to the inside of the bead, sticking up about 1/4" above the bead. I'll screw or rivet it in place, and use Hi-temp RTV to caulk it. I wish I could weld it in, but I'm not set up for SS. My friendly local welder would be too expensive. I got my fire basket done this weekend- I'll post pics when I get the rest of it done. I'm still toying with ideas for lower vent control. I was thinking about SS tubing coming up to the top of the drum, with some kind of valve at 'operator level'. Boat railing and fittings might be cool looking (but spendy). I also thought of using copper pipe, polished to a nice shine, which would offset nicely against the SS, but it would have to be maintained
to look good. I'm going for a classy look, like yours. Definitely not in the 'ugly' category!
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Old 10-04-2009, 06:16 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MushCreek View Post
Hey Paul- I measured my drum, and it's exactly 23-1/32". My Weber lid is about 1/4" too small.
Does the drum have a wide radius lip rolled over the outside? If so, you can use a BFH and a body dolly (or some other suitably large hunk of metal) to slightly compress the lip and lessen the diameter of the drum, enabling the lid to fit without any welding or other fabrication.
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Old 10-04-2009, 07:17 PM   #51
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OK, here are the final photos. Just off the SS UDS and cut up:




These just had a memphis rub on one slab, salt and pepper on one slab, and real lite garlic on the third slab. No spritzin or saucen.(this is my very first attempt at smok'in). I'll get fancyer as I go along. I know it isn't as tasty lookin as ya'lls but my wife's mom and dad, and our neighbors sucked them down and raved about them!!!

I think it was a toss up on which one I liked, to me they were all good.

OK folks, critique away, and be honest........... Oh, 3 1/2 hours at about 230*.

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Old 10-04-2009, 08:02 PM   #52
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I've seen some very nice lookin' drums posted, but I think yours outshines them all, and the ribs look darn good.
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Old 10-04-2009, 08:38 PM   #53
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surgical BBQ at your service...what a masterpiece!
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Old 10-05-2009, 09:07 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MushCreek View Post
Hey Paul- I measured my drum, and it's exactly 23-1/32". My Weber lid is about 1/4" too small. You can kind of balance it on there, but I don't like it. I'm going to call Arctic tomorrow and see if they'll sell me a lid. If it's too small, I'm going to add a strip of SS to the inside of the bead, sticking up about 1/4" above the bead. I'll screw or rivet it in place, and use Hi-temp RTV to caulk it. I wish I could weld it in, but I'm not set up for SS. My friendly local welder would be too expensive. I got my fire basket done this weekend- I'll post pics when I get the rest of it done. I'm still toying with ideas for lower vent control. I was thinking about SS tubing coming up to the top of the drum, with some kind of valve at 'operator level'. Boat railing and fittings might be cool looking (but spendy). I also thought of using copper pipe, polished to a nice shine, which would offset nicely against the SS, but it would have to be maintained
to look good. I'm going for a classy look, like yours. Definitely not in the 'ugly' category!
Drip enough BBQ sauce on the exterior and it will soon develop a nice brass patina. That way, you won't have to wear welding goggles to cook on it.
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Old 10-05-2009, 10:56 AM   #55
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I got a price today from Arctic, so I'm going to order the lid, and see how (if) it fits. I thought of trying to roll the bead inward, since my drum is still sealed. I grabbed it with a big pair of pipe pliers and tried to bend it inward- didn't budge. I'll try the BFH and see what happens- that ought to piss off the neighbors! I'm also collecting all of the other bits and pieces for my build- all SS, other than the fire basket.
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:55 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MushCreek View Post
I got a price today from Arctic, so I'm going to order the lid, and see how (if) it fits.
How much was the lid?

Quote:
I thought of trying to roll the bead inward, since my drum is still sealed. I grabbed it with a big pair of pipe pliers and tried to bend it inward- didn't budge. I'll try the BFH and see what happens- that ought to piss off the neighbors!
Yeah, I waited until Saturday afternoon to do mine. It was quite a racket.
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:12 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MushCreek View Post
I got a price today from Arctic, so I'm going to order the lid, and see how (if) it fits. I thought of trying to roll the bead inward, since my drum is still sealed. I grabbed it with a big pair of pipe pliers and tried to bend it inward- didn't budge. I'll try the BFH and see what happens- that ought to piss off the neighbors! I'm also collecting all of the other bits and pieces for my build- all SS, other than the fire basket.
The thought and the sound (literally) of spending money for a new lid and pounding it larger to fit the barrel just pains me.

Here's my suggestion. Get a strip of steel that is 2" wide by 72.4" (where 72.4" = 23.03125 times Pi rounded up) Tack weld, bolt or pop rivit that to the existing lip of the drum to make a new smaller lip projecting above the existing lip.
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Old 10-05-2009, 02:13 PM   #58
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Mark- That was an idea I had (#49), and I think it would work well for any drum that's too big for a ready-made lid. I ordered the Arctic lid today- $27.50, plus $20 for shipping and handling. That's kinda spendy, but for an all-stainless UDS (Ultimate Drum Smoker) I think it's worth it. Where else could you get an all-stainless smoker for that? I also ordered a bunch of different stainless options- some handles, hooks to hang tools on, SS U-bolts for grate racks, etc. If the Arctic lid is too small, I'll add the strip of SS to the inside of the bead, which is about 22.4" in diameter. I figured I can seal it with hi-temp RTV if the fit isn't perfect. I'm coming to find from reading the various threads that a good seal on the lid is vital to controlling temperature.

I wouldn't try to stretch the Arctic lid- it would be too hard to do it cleanly. I was thinking of trying instead to pound the bead of the drum inward with a BFH. Since my drum is sealed, I could pound on it pretty hard. Once it's cut, it wouldn't work. I'm afraid that pounding on it too much will distort the bead, though, and harm the seal. I just have to cool my jets til the lid gets here.
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Old 10-05-2009, 02:24 PM   #59
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Before you try pounding on the lip with a BFH, make cuts in the lip every 0.25 inches or so along the circumference . Then when you pound the lip inwards, it will give easily and the gaps will close.

I use dthis technique to make an extension ring for a UDS and it worked well. No need for a gasket even! I used a cheap harbor freignt cut-off tool to make the cuts and made cuts about 3/8" deep.
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Old 10-05-2009, 02:25 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MushCreek View Post
I wouldn't try to stretch the Arctic lid- it would be too hard to do it cleanly. I was thinking of trying instead to pound the bead of the drum inward with a BFH. Since my drum is sealed, I could pound on it pretty hard. Once it's cut, it wouldn't work.
I would suggest doing it after you cut it. If you do it before you cut, there's a lack of mass on the inside of the rim to help direct the force and you risk crimping the rim or just deforming it.
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