Cook times and running a 500 gallon Moberg

DECENT BBQ

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Hello everyone! Its been a while since I've been on here, but 2 years after putting down a deposit I finally received my 500 gallon Moberg Smoker. Here she is:
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Did my first cook yesterday on it: 4 briskets, 2 pork butts, 6 ribs and 50 wings. I made some interesting observations during the cook that I would like to share with you all and get some feedback and opinions about.

I used a 4" full pan as a water pan on the bottom grate closest to the firebox.
Brisket and pork butts went on at 7pm on the bottom grates farthest from the firebox at a temperature of 275*. Being that this was my first time using it, I struggled for the first 5-6 hours, but managed to keep the temps between 250-275.

What I figured out, or at least what worked best for me, was that you need to keep the exhaust damper fully open and fine tune the temperature via the firebox door. Whats counterintuitive here (to me) is that opening the door reduces the temperature, and closing the door increases it. There were times where I had the door fully closed and it would maintain temps for a good 30-40 min without me having to do anything to it. This is the exact opposite of my Chargriller offset, where you keep the firebox door fully open and fine tune the temp via the exhaust damper. Trying to regulate the temperature with the exhaust damper on the 500 only resulted in smoke coming out of the firebox door and not really doing anything to the temperature.

Any thoughts on the theory behind this? Is this common for all 500+ gallon smokers? I'm guessing it has a lot to do with the firebox being fully insulated. The top of the firebox doesnt get hot at all, you can put your hand on it no problem.

The bark on the brisket didn't set until after 10 hours. After 10 hours, I reduced the temp on the bottom grates to 250* for the briskets as this is when the ribs went on the top grates at 275*. I also wrapped them in foil at this time. I spritzed the briskets 4-5 times after the first hour, but nothing heavy. Does it normally take this long for the bark to set on these large smokers? On my small one its usually set after 5-6 hours, and is done (probe tender) after 10-12 hours. These briskets cooked for 17 hours and the flats were still not probe tender (the points were, though). I knew that it took longer for brisket to cook on large smokers, but not that much longer. I had to pull them off at the 17 hour mark as I was smoking for other people, and just told them to wrap them in foil and reheat in the oven until its probe tender.

Should I have not spritzed, used a smaller water pan, or maybe both? I'm sure reducing the temperature to 250* after 10 hours didn't help, but didn't think a 25* difference would be that significant as far as total cook time. Having said that, the ribs cooked exactly as expected, 5 hours at 275* using the 3-2-1 method.

So why did the briskets and pork butts take a lot longer, but the ribs cooked in the same amount of time as my small smoker? Would the briskets maybe cook in a shorter amount of time if they were on the top rack where the ribs were?

After getting the temps stabilized, I was averaging 1 cubic foot of wood per hour, does this seem correct? Ambient temp was between 45-50*. Seems pretty reasonable to me, my wood cost is $10 cu/ft. For this cook I only used wood. For the next one, I'm going to try using a charcoal/wood combination, which is what I used on my small offset with great success. Hoping to bring the operating costs down from $100/cook, which is what wood only cost me this round.

Here are some pics from the cook https://imgur.com/a/81bKHP2
 

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That thing is amazing!!!! With the firebox door closed, is there any air intake? I don’t see anything in the pics or on their website as to actual air intake... is it with the door only?

I’ve never run anything that big but when I had the LSG vertical offset always stacks wide opens and air intake (not door itself) wide open and control temp with fire size... but that was a muuuuuuccccchhh smaller pit...

And the Imgur cook pics looks delicious. Great looking bark!
 
Oh man, I don't have an answer to your quandary, but I do want to say thanks for sharing your experience and photos. The food looks great. You look happy. I would kill for that indoor cooking space you're in. :)

Is this beast primarily for catering purposes? $100/burn is pretty pricey! I can see why you'd want to reduce that if at all possible.
 
Oh man, I don't have an answer to your quandary, but I do want to say thanks for sharing your experience and photos. The food looks great. You look happy. I would kill for that indoor cooking space you're in. :)

Is this beast primarily for catering purposes? $100/burn is pretty pricey! I can see why you'd want to reduce that if at all possible.

Thanks! I bought this house specifically for the shop. I'm working on a catering business, and in the meantime just doing monthly cooks for friends. Goal is to fill up the smoker once a month and sell everything out for some type of profit. I had no idea what my costs were going to be so I just did everything for donation this time around. I barely broke even on fuel/food costs.
 
That thing is amazing!!!! With the firebox door closed, is there any air intake? I don’t see anything in the pics or on their website as to actual air intake... is it with the door only?

I’ve never run anything that big but when I had the LSG vertical offset always stacks wide opens and air intake (not door itself) wide open and control temp with fire size... but that was a muuuuuuccccchhh smaller pit...

And the Imgur cook pics looks delicious. Great looking bark!

Air is adjusted with the door only. My guess is the draw is so great that just the gaps in the door are enough to fuel the fire when its fully closed.
 
Thanks! I bought this house specifically for the shop. I'm working on a catering business, and in the meantime just doing monthly cooks for friends. Goal is to fill up the smoker once a month and sell everything out for some type of profit. I had no idea what my costs were going to be so I just did everything for donation this time around. I barely broke even on fuel/food costs.

I can definitely see why you would have. Its a beautiful space.

Ah, ya gotta start some where. Whats the ole saying? 'You gotta break a few eggs to make an omelette.' At least now you have a bit of data to work on & can work on improving it. I'm sure it'll get better when you get a grip on the handling of the smoker & the wood consumption habits. That's not an inexpensive toy to fire up. At least you're not committed to $100 a pop each time you turn it on, but there is definitely a start up fee with the mass you're having to heat.

Good luck on your quest!
 
The scary part is loaded up it's gonna use more wood. Im wondering if your wood is too dry?

I've seen a few cookers that don't like the fb door open. All the heat backs out the door and the cook chamber temp drops. I wouldn't be concerned.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
I don’t have that size of a smoker, but what I have noticed with mine during the winter months or colder nights is that a door fully open does the same thing. From what I have listened to from different sources and read is that by having the door fully open it allows that cool air to hit the fire more direct which takes some steam out of it. I typically only keep it cracked 2-4 inches during the winter or on really windy days.

Play with the fire to see how it reacts when you do different things. I can slow down the wood consumption a little bit by placing the log length wise (parallel with the smoker) which also reduces my temp a 5-10 degrees if I am burning too hot. I can turn it width wise (perpendicular with the smoker) which speeds up the consumption, but raises the temp a bit. Move the logs closer to the cook chamber or farther away allows me to get the most out of my wood. Same thing with playing with the door.

Here is a link to a video with some tips I have picked up. His point on minimal movements has seemed to help me a little bit too.
https://youtu.be/lNGCSoPVxa4

Franklin’s masterclass has a couple tid bits on fire management.
 
Don't spritz and get rid of the water pan. Ya don't need them in an offset. The water pan and spritzing are a good part of the reason your bark took so long to set.
Once your fire is going keep your doors closed and control with the dampers. I don't know Moburgs but *most* good offsets like to run with the exhaust damper open and controlled with the intake damper. When you open the firebox door you allow heat to escape out the door and that disturbs your airflow. It's the normal way good, sealed offsets run. Keep the firebox door closed unless you are feeding it or need to drop the temp.
Run it anywhere around 250°-275° or even 300° if that is where it wants to run with the least tending.
Do a biscuit test to find the hot spots and cool spots to explain why your meats cooked differently.
 
Are you buying bags of kiln dried wood? If so that's probably the most expensive way of running an offset smoker. You'll want to buy wood in full cords and it's much cheaper. I looked in the Seattle area on Craigslist (just search for firewood) and there's an absolute ton of wood available. 1 cord of wood = 128 cubic feet. Most of what I saw in the area was $300-400 per cord, so that's a cost of $.32 per cubic foot, rather than $10. Facebook Marketplace is also a good place to look. There is no way you can make any money when you're paying that much for fuel.

Quality offsets are designed to function with the firebox door closed, and use the dampers to adjust for intake. If you keep the firebox door open you lose some of the back pressure, and that's why you're getting temperature decreases. Without that back pressure less hot air is moving through the cooker, and more hot air is escaping out the firebox door. On crappy offsets leaving the firebox door open can often be necessary, but you've got a solid cooker so you shouldn't need to to do that.

Up in Seattle the air is humid so there's really no need for a water pan at all (I also don't think offsets need a water pan in general). I also don't spritz because I feel like it does absolutely nothing. The moisture you spray on the meat evaporates almost immediately, and now you've lost all that heat from opening the door, so this will slow you down. If you excessively spray and your meat has divots then the moisture can pool in certain areas and you don't want that.
 
Are you buying bags of kiln dried wood? If so that's probably the most expensive way of running an offset smoker. You'll want to buy wood in full cords and it's much cheaper. I looked in the Seattle area on Craigslist (just search for firewood) and there's an absolute ton of wood available. 1 cord of wood = 128 cubic feet. Most of what I saw in the area was $300-400 per cord, so that's a cost of $.32 per cubic foot, rather than $10. Facebook Marketplace is also a good place to look. There is no way you can make any money when you're paying that much for fuel.

Quality offsets are designed to function with the firebox door closed, and use the dampers to adjust for intake. If you keep the firebox door open you lose some of the back pressure, and that's why you're getting temperature decreases. Without that back pressure less hot air is moving through the cooker, and more hot air is escaping out the firebox door. On crappy offsets leaving the firebox door open can often be necessary, but you've got a solid cooker so you shouldn't need to to do that.

Up in Seattle the air is humid so there's really no need for a water pan at all (I also don't think offsets need a water pan in general). I also don't spritz because I feel like it does absolutely nothing. The moisture you spray on the meat evaporates almost immediately, and now you've lost all that heat from opening the door, so this will slow you down. If you excessively spray and your meat has divots then the moisture can pool in certain areas and you don't want that.

There is no damper for the intake, just a solid door. I realized after about 8 hours or so this thing will burn with the door completely shut just fine. This still doesnt make sense to me, as I dont understand how its getting air for combustion, my only guess is the gaps in the door when closed are enough to feed the fire.

Historically I have only used hickory for smoking, and purchased 10, 2cu/ft bags from a local company http://www.cookingwoods.com. This cook I used 4.5 bags at a cost of $20/bag. Not cheap! So now what I am thinking is either run a charcoal and hickory combo like I have been using for years on my little offset, or like you said get a cord of some locally sourced wood to mix with the hickory.

From my experience, I'm guessing any fruitwood mixed with hickory should work without sacrificing too much of the hickory flavor that I'm partial to. Every fruit wood I've used didn't really give much (if any) smoke flavor IMO. There is one CL posting selling Oak, I've never used it before and am not sure how much different that is to say Post Oak used in Texas. I didn't even know Oak grew in WA.

Looks like its going to be a fun summer experimenting with different mixes to figure out how to reduce fuel costs.
 
I picked up a 500 gallon smoker in March that has a similar set up to yours. First thing I would recommend is ditching buying wood buy the bag. That will kill any profit you have way too quickly. Don't get too hung up on using one type of wood and explore what is readily available in your area and build a relationship with a good wood vendor and buy local.

In regards to charcoal, I would stay away from that. Like the cost above with the bagged wood, your cook costs will increase exponentially. I'll typically use a chimney full of charcoal to get the fire/coal bed started, but move to all splits after that.

With the door fully closed, are you still burning a clean fire? Also, I would imagine that the air flow through the cooker is being drastically decreased by having such a minimal ingress. This could be the reason for your problems with getting the bark set. With minimal air moving over the meat, it will take a lot longer for the moisture to evaporate off of the surface of the meat. When I have a roaring fire going, I will crack it maybe a couple inches at the very least, just to ensure that there is still proper airflow getting through the smoker.

For cook times, it definitely seems to take some extra time, but I think that again can be contributed to the reduced airflow. Offset cookers by nature cook through convection. Once that convection is limited, cooking times are going to go up due to not having air constantly moving through the cooker.

After saying all that, I am super excited for you and that is one beautiful cooker. Keep after it and it will become incredibly rewarding once you get it dialed in. Can't wait to see your progress and hear all about it once you get everything how you want it
 
Wow!! Those Mobergs pit are absolutely stunning!! Congrats on the new pit and here's to many cooks getting it dialed in.
 
way you can make any money when you're paying that much for fuel.

Quality offsets are designed to function with the firebox door closed, and use the dampers to adjust for intake. If you keep the firebox door open you lose some of the back pressure, and that's why you're getting temperature decreases. Without that back pressure less hot air is moving through the cooker, and more hot air is escaping out the firebox door. On crappy offsets leaving the firebox door open can often be necessary, but you've got a solid cooker so you shouldn't need to to do that.

Up in Seattle the air is humid so there's really no need for a water pan at all (I also don't think offsets need a water pan in general). I also don't spritz because I feel like it does absolutely nothing. The moisture you spray on the meat evaporates almost immediately, and now you've lost all that heat from opening the door, so this will slow you down. If you excessively spray and your meat has divots then the moisture can pool in certain areas and you don't want that.


I've never cooked on a 500 gallon, so I was gonna stay out of this.


But on that smoker, there is no damper in the FB door. Moberg builds them to use the door. They build them for optimum air flow.



Every vid I've watched from Texas bbq joints who use Moberg smokers, use a water pan and they spritz.



To the OP, you paid a good price for that smoker, it it were me, I'd be on the phone with Sonny Moberg instead of asking in this forum. But hey, that's just me.
 
I'd be on the phone with Sonny Moberg instead of asking in this forum. But hey, that's just me.

I'm sure Sonny would be happy to talk you through how he runs his pits and his years of experience.

If it were me I'd want to run that monster a few more times to get a bit more knowledge before going to the oracle to learn the finer points.
 
Congrats on the new smoker, Moberg's are top notch. I have a 250 gallon myself and it's very similar to the 500's i've cooked on and your smoker.



I cook with the exhaust fully open and the door on the firebox open at most an inch or so. I always use a water pan and keep it full thru my cooks. I never spritz briskets until at least 3hrs into the cook and even then usually only hit corners that are looking a little crusty. I don't spritz the whole brisket until the bark is set usually closer to 5-6 hrs. Rib cook times are pretty consistent for me with what you described. Briskets on my smoker take pretty consistently 1 hr to 1hr 15min or so per pound to get done. Not sure what size your briskets were but if they were bigger that might explain the longer cook. good luck it took me a few cooks with my smoker to start to figure it out and i still learn something every time i cook
 
I agree on watching mad scientist video as he does a great job on fire management on his 500 gallon fat stack. I also agree with contacting Somny Moberg and asking him for pointers. Those big pits have so much convection and airflow I have to believe the exhaust should always be 100% wide open and you control the temperature in the pit by the size of the fire. I would vary the airflow through the fire by cracking the door open one or 2 inches etc.


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My mistake on the Moberg...looks like it's designed to run with the door open. I made a poor assumption and we all know how that works out. haha

As for the wood I would just stick with what you can get local. As long as it's a hardwood and cured you really can't go wrong (though, of course, there are exceptions like black walnut). You are paying way too much for wood and that's going to make doing even small experiments excessively expensive. Get yourself a cord of maple, apple, or oak and you'll do just fine. Oak is a fantastic smoking wood and you'll get some awesome flavor out of it. Looking at Craigslist, if it we were me, I'd go with this guy.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/grd/d/totally-seasoned-fruit-wood-apple/7283903924.html

In regards to charcoal give it a go and see what happens. I was at a KCBS competition next to a guy who was running a Jambo mini with charcoal. He had a propane fueled contraption where he would pour in a full 20Lb of KBB and use the propane to light it all off. Once it was white he wheeled this thing over to the firebox and dumped it in. Then he'd put on a single split of wood every 30 minutes or so. He went through 4 or 5 of the 20Lb bags, but it did keep his smoker almost dead on at 300° for 6 or 7 hours...long enough to do a full KCBS cook. I would imagine on your much larger smoker you'd be going through charcoal like nobody's business and that's also going to eat up all your profit. I'd really suggest getting comfortable with just using hardwood and learning how to make it work for you on your particular smoker.

Good luck and that thing is amazing! As others have stated I'd reach out to the builder and see if they can offer you some guidance to help you shorten the learning curve.
 
I just want to say this discussion is fascinating & I appreciate it as a bystander. Learning a lot here. Interesting how things don't scale up like we expect them to. A lot of stuff is like that in life TBH.


Using '$/cook' is an interesting output because you can min/max it in a bunch of different ways(many of which are suggested here).
 
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