Norcoredneck
somebody shut me the fark up.
Use scotch brite and knock off what you can. Might wash out with a heavy mix of tide and hot water and dry. Then use Pam like suggested on inside. I would just leave outside alone.
Ugly Drum Smoker
- Thread starter jgh1204
- Start date
O
Old Hippie
Guest
What is the gray or silver color on the inside the lip of the drum?I am just about finished with my attempt at a UDS, thanks to this thread.
What is the red color on the outside the lip of the drum?
Is this a mod to get the Weber lid to fit?
grills gone wild
Knows what a fatty is.
The gray ring is a piece of 2" steel formed into a ring that is pressed into the inside of the drum, the red stuff is just a piece of rope, to see how a gasket would work. I will put some stove gasket in its place. The weber lid fits perfect like this.
grills gone wild
Knows what a fatty is.
She is complete, minus some paint, and finding a black lid.
I added the side shelf and some wheels:-D
I added the side shelf and some wheels:-D
A
alltoys
Guest
I can't believe I read the whole the thing and made one too!!
Some questions I have about the smoking of meat.
I have smoked some ribs and a brisket. One thing that happens is the meat gets rather dry. Should I brush on a coating of what ever after the meat is smoked. I notice that the meat has pulled away from the bones nicely. I have not marinated or basted the meat while it has been smoking should I baste more and marinate?
Also I have 3 one inch holes in the bottom of the drum and it seems that the coals do not get hot enough. It gets a steady 170 to 190F stays there for 4 hours then drops. If I take off the top almost instantly it gets hotter. Should I have more holes in the bottom?
I wonder also if I should have larger vent holes in the bottom of the basket for the charcoal brickets. Seems like the ash doesn't get a chance to fall and let fresh air get to the remaining brickets.
Does the bottom of the basket need to have large slats or large enough for the fine ash to fall and leave remaining brickets to burn?
Some questions I have about the smoking of meat.
I have smoked some ribs and a brisket. One thing that happens is the meat gets rather dry. Should I brush on a coating of what ever after the meat is smoked. I notice that the meat has pulled away from the bones nicely. I have not marinated or basted the meat while it has been smoking should I baste more and marinate?
Also I have 3 one inch holes in the bottom of the drum and it seems that the coals do not get hot enough. It gets a steady 170 to 190F stays there for 4 hours then drops. If I take off the top almost instantly it gets hotter. Should I have more holes in the bottom?
I wonder also if I should have larger vent holes in the bottom of the basket for the charcoal brickets. Seems like the ash doesn't get a chance to fall and let fresh air get to the remaining brickets.
Does the bottom of the basket need to have large slats or large enough for the fine ash to fall and leave remaining brickets to burn?
J
jswordy
Guest
Here's a few build pix of the latest drum builds. One had a Weber lid, the other Uniflame. The Uniflame has a certain advantage, as you can see!
Almost ready to paint.
Ring to adapt Weber lid to barrel. I had to form and sit the metal ring on top of the barrel. Welded all around, and also sealed with JB Weld in case of pinholes. The Uniflame ring was able to slip inside the barrel, so it worked a bit easier.
Fire baskets. We used bails off five-gallon buckets to make the handles.
Painted. I used the Rustoleum stove paint in the quart, thinned with a bit of mineral spirits and run through a $10 H-F spray gun.
Stanley looks them over.
First burn. Used pure charcol. Nine pounds lasted 6 hours at 250-300. Snuffed them out after that.
The Uniflame advantage -- it hinges! Used 2 1" L brackets for the barrel portion of the hinge.
Almost ready to paint.
Ring to adapt Weber lid to barrel. I had to form and sit the metal ring on top of the barrel. Welded all around, and also sealed with JB Weld in case of pinholes. The Uniflame ring was able to slip inside the barrel, so it worked a bit easier.
Fire baskets. We used bails off five-gallon buckets to make the handles.
Painted. I used the Rustoleum stove paint in the quart, thinned with a bit of mineral spirits and run through a $10 H-F spray gun.
Stanley looks them over.
First burn. Used pure charcol. Nine pounds lasted 6 hours at 250-300. Snuffed them out after that.
The Uniflame advantage -- it hinges! Used 2 1" L brackets for the barrel portion of the hinge.
N8man
Babbling Farker
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Do you have pictures of your drum and basket setup that we could look at? It'll help us to answer some of your questions.
One thing that is beneficial is to gently shake or kick your drum every 5 or 6 hours to knock down the ash build up.
Norcoredneck
somebody shut me the fark up.
JSwordy, nice job. Better start gathering parts because you will be getting request from friends.
Alltoys, N8 is right pics of entire set up will lead to answers.
Alltoys, N8 is right pics of entire set up will lead to answers.
J
jswordy
Guest
Thanks for your help, Norco! I did one thing differently on the valve. I used JB Weld in the connector nut to epoxy it to the valve screw, rather than tap the connector for a set screw. It seems to work, and since I had already welded the connector to the allthread, it allowed me to rotate it until the flats lined up for the control handle.
Highly recommend the Rustoleum stove paint in quarts, especially if you have a spray gun. Makes them look almost store-bought (at least until we ruin it later).
These were the best ones so far, thanks to all the mods developed on this site. Thanks!
Highly recommend the Rustoleum stove paint in quarts, especially if you have a spray gun. Makes them look almost store-bought (at least until we ruin it later).
These were the best ones so far, thanks to all the mods developed on this site. Thanks!
Norcoredneck
somebody shut me the fark up.
See your partner has the essential tool in his Left hand. Important part of any UDS Build.
Norcoredneck
somebody shut me the fark up.
For those looking for Gauges I found these on Ebay. I just got in 4 and they are nice.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170376192170&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170376192170&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Bbq Bubba
somebody shut me the fark up.
And for those looking for a thermo that you can actually afford AND read.....
http://www.greatlakesbbqsupply.com/product.sc?productId=37&categoryId=6
Norcoredneck
somebody shut me the fark up.
Your right Bubba they are nice at 2 1/2 times the price. How can an all stainless thermometer be anodized aluminum?
Bbq Bubba
somebody shut me the fark up.
Just the face bro! :biggrin:
J
jswordy
Guest
See your partner has the essential tool in his Left hand. Important part of any UDS Build.
And 2 empties on the table! :mrgreen:
Far as the great gauge debate, I know the Wally World gauges get a lot of abuse here, but they are cheap and they have worked for me. Reading one is no problem. I put a mark on it at 250 with red marker. I can see that from inside my house with a pair of binoculars. I am not saying a gauge that costs nearly $50 with the shipping isn't somehow better, I am just saying these work for me at $15 plus sales tax.
TrustTheDust
Full Fledged Farker
Total UDS Paradise.
Norcoredneck
somebody shut me the fark up.
To possibly clear up confusion I paid $63 for 4 gauges which included shipping $15.75 each, and you can recalibrate them. Bubba is right Tele Tru are very nice gauges that you can trust. If it was a more expensive smoker then it would be worth spending the extra cash.
Bbq Bubba
somebody shut me the fark up.
And then i apologize to Norco, thought you got ripped off bro!
(i should know better than that!) even if they are made in Japan. :twisted: :roll:
Norcoredneck
somebody shut me the fark up.
Gonna go and check when I get home! Farker!
Norcoredneck
somebody shut me the fark up.
:biggrin:99
