First Offset build

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Smokin Turkey

is Blowin Smoke!
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Today I was contacted by a guy ready to spend some $ on a custom built offset.

I already am spinning with ideas but he wants something decent size (36" wide cook area) and an offset firebox. I am thinking I will roll a 1/4" thick piece to a cylinder for the cooking chamber. I will then either roll or build a box from 3/8" steel for the firebox. I am thinking of building this as a reverse flow but I know little about the capabilities of these. Can you direct cook with a reverse flow or do I need to build this as a traditional offset to have the ability to sear and direct cook? I have always heard the amazing even temps of a reverse flow cooker which has me excited to do one.

I am pricing this both ways and I am not looking at this as the cheaper one gets the build, but the one that will get me noticed.
 
The one thing I wish I had on my offset was that it was insulated.
 
VGuilford said:
The one thing I wish I had on my offset was that it was insulated.
Click to expand...

I think I would have liked that too... At least insulate the fire box... The cooking chamber is never really a problem until you get below 40*... Then 'The Mistress' has a nice wool blanket I put over her...

As for your question of cooking 'directly' on a reverse flow, you have me confused... With an off-set fire box there is no 'direct' cooking, it's all indirect...

I would never turn in my Lang, she does a great job and yes, is a reverse flow... I find the temps run nice and even. Yes there is a difference between the fire box side and the 'smoke' side, about 25*... The nice part of having the warmer (I wouldn't use the term 'Hot' spot) side is that I can put things that can take a little more heat (like pork butt) there and my ribs toward the cooler side...

Mind you it's just my humble opinion, but I think it's well worth the effort...
 
are you saying insulated firebox or insulated everything? I'm really limited in my insulating BBQ's knowledge. only what I have seen here aas far as people showing in pictures from their clone builds.
 
Divemaster said:
As for your question of cooking 'directly' on a reverse flow, you have me confused... With an off-set fire box there is no 'direct' cooking, it's all indirect...

Mind you it's just my humble opinion, but I think it's well worth the effort...
Click to expand...
The customer requested it be able to cook directly also. I was thinking of building a removable coal grate to go over the baffle.
 
Smokin Turkey said:
are you saying insulated firebox or insulated everything? I'm really limited in my insulating BBQ's knowledge. only what I have seen here aas far as people showing in pictures from their clone builds.
Click to expand...

I guess if I had my choice, I would insulate all of it... If you can only insulate the fire box, I would recommend a double layer all the way around with an air space... Every little bit helps....

Divemaster said:
As for your question of cooking 'directly' on a reverse flow, you have me confused... With an off-set fire box there is no 'direct' cooking, it's all indirect...
Click to expand...

Smokin Turkey said:
The customer requested it be able to cook directly also. I was thinking of building a removable coal grate to go over the baffle.
Click to expand...

If that's the case, I would make a section of the fire box top removable and allow him to put on a grill grate... I don't think it would be a good idea to keep it in there as I'm sure it would warp with the temps the area would get to... I don't think I would mess around by the baffle, just keep that area simple...
 
Divemaster said:
I guess if I had my choice, I would insulate all of it... If you can only insulate the fire box, I would recommend a double layer all the way around with an air space... Every little bit helps....

If that's the case, I would make a section of the fire box top removable and allow him to put on a grill grate... I don't think it would be a good idea to keep it in there as I'm sure it would warp with the temps the area would get to... I don't think I would mess around by the baffle, just keep that area simple...
Click to expand...

Great suggestions of things I couldn't imagine until I had problems. Thanks for the help. I imagine I could make the baffle removable in sections? That way the heavier materials I would make the coal rack out of would be fine to take the much lower temps of the smoking heat?
 
Smokin Turkey said:
Great suggestions of things I couldn't imagine until I had problems. Thanks for the help. I imagine I could make the baffle removable in sections? That way the heavier materials I would make the coal rack out of would be fine to take the much lower temps of the smoking heat?
Click to expand...

I'm guessing you are talking about an adjustable baffle between the fire box and the cooking chamber, correct?

If so, I wouldn't make it removable and I would make it out of the same 3/8" you were takling about for the fire box walls... That way, if he is only going to be grilling (or cooking 'direct') he could close it and if he is smoking he could open it... I wouldn't worry that the baffle is to heavy as for the smoking temps... Remember that the fire box is going to be hot (we make our coffee on it at comps) so I would worry about warpage if the material used for the baffle is to thin.

On my Lang, the only baffle is on the stack (she was built before Ben started putting in baffles between the fire box and cook chamber) so I'm not used to having one but think it would be a great addition!
 
I would set the thing up so that it would accept a stoker or Guru. So I would include a damper between the firebox and cooking chamber. And an easy place to add the blower.
 
The Guru addaptor sounds like a good idea even if you don't have it on at the begining...

BTW Balls... I don't recall seeing your thread in Cattle Call... How about you swing by there and tell us about yourself...
 
Thats a great idea right there! i was actually thinking of the baffle that carries the heat from the fireside to the opposite end and then allows the smoke to come all the way back to the stack on the fire side. I was thinking if I made a rail for it to rest on and made the (lets just call it a duct) in pieces that would set in and allow the heat to roll from the firebox from end to end evenly. I would create a few holes in it and possibly even cut numbers so they can be placed back in the right order to fit correctly. Then below it, i would use some 3/8-1/2 round bar to build a wood/charcoal rack. the user could leave it in place while smoking if they want but it would be removable for cleanup. I like the baffle idea between the firebox and cook chamber though. gives it some more control. I will have to draw out some specs and get together a supplies list to quote the job. I am excited to finally get something larger and intricate to build. I already have some ideas about how to use the CNC Plasma to simplify the build.

Divemaster said:
I'm guessing you are talking about an adjustable baffle between the fire box and the cooking chamber, correct?

If so, I wouldn't make it removable and I would make it out of the same 3/8" you were takling about for the fire box walls... That way, if he is only going to be grilling (or cooking 'direct') he could close it and if he is smoking he could open it... I wouldn't worry that the baffle is to heavy as for the smoking temps... Remember that the fire box is going to be hot (we make our coffee on it at comps) so I would worry about warpage if the material used for the baffle is to thin.

On my Lang, the only baffle is on the stack (she was built before Ben started putting in baffles between the fire box and cook chamber) so I'm not used to having one but think it would be a great addition!
Click to expand...
 
with the thickness of the metal you using only thing I would do put firebrick in firebox reverse flow prolly be my next project.
 
What thickness are most fireboxes made from? I thought 1/4" would be over kill on the size project I am building. What would be the purpose of the bricks? To hold heat or insulate? I will be building a wood/coal rack at least 1/2 round bars linked to 1/4" plate. I want to make this an over build but affordable. I'm going to dress up the outside with a stainless work shelf and a custom sign on top. but that has nothing to do with actual functionality of the build. I guess I will have to get out the chalk and start sketching to see distances and things.
 
Congrats on the work...

I do have one question. Does your customer know what he wants? He seems to be leaving a great deal of up to you. The reason that I ask is that if I was spending this kind of money and went in to talk to you I, all the things you are asking are things I (and most of us) would be TELLING you we wanted.

I would be telling you exactly how thick I wanted the firebox, I would already know if I wanted it reverse flow, I would tell you I wanted baffles if I wanted them. The only reason I bring this up is that if the guy doesn't know what he wants other than it's 36 inches wide I would be cautious. Make sure you get a good size down payment before you start.

Most of us would know exactly what we want, even if we were buying KLOSE or GATOR or anything else. We'd tell the fabricator EXACTLY what we wanted.
 
Smokin Turkey said:
Thats a great idea right there! i was actually thinking of the baffle that carries the heat from the fireside to the opposite end and then allows the smoke to come all the way back to the stack on the fire side. I was thinking if I made a rail for it to rest on and made the (lets just call it a duct) in pieces that would set in and allow the heat to roll from the firebox from end to end evenly. I would create a few holes in it and possibly even cut numbers so they can be placed back in the right order to fit correctly. Then below it, i would use some 3/8-1/2 round bar to build a wood/charcoal rack. the user could leave it in place while smoking if they want but it would be removable for cleanup. I like the baffle idea between the firebox and cook chamber though. gives it some more control. I will have to draw out some specs and get together a supplies list to quote the job. I am excited to finally get something larger and intricate to build. I already have some ideas about how to use the CNC Plasma to simplify the build.
Click to expand...

Now I know what your talking about... I would still go with a baffle between the fire box and cooking chamber.

The 'duct' you are talking about (on my Lang) is built out of a solid piece shapped like '--v--' this way the juices (and grease) collect in the 'v' and run down to a drain pipe that goes through the bottom of the cooking chamber and into a bucket. What you are talking about is more along the lines of 'tuning plates' and I don't think would work in a reverse flow configuration.
trp1fox said:
Congrats on the work...

I do have one question. Does your customer know what he wants? He seems to be leaving a great deal of up to you. The reason that I ask is that if I was spending this kind of money and went in to talk to you I, all the things you are asking are things I (and most of us) would be TELLING you we wanted.

I would be telling you exactly how thick I wanted the firebox, I would already know if I wanted it reverse flow, I would tell you I wanted baffles if I wanted them. The only reason I bring this up is that if the guy doesn't know what he wants other than it's 36 inches wide I would be cautious. Make sure you get a good size down payment before you start.

Most of us would know exactly what we want, even if we were buying KLOSE or GATOR or anything else. We'd tell the fabricator EXACTLY what we wanted.
Click to expand...

Larry has a very good point... Even when I ordered my Lang 60 (a standard item) I went over all of the details with Ben to be sure we were both talking about the same items...
 
trp1fox said:
Congrats on the work...

I do have one question. Does your customer know what he wants? He seems to be leaving a great deal of up to you. The reason that I ask is that if I was spending this kind of money and went in to talk to you I, all the things you are asking are things I (and most of us) would be TELLING you we wanted.

I would be telling you exactly how thick I wanted the firebox, I would already know if I wanted it reverse flow, I would tell you I wanted baffles if I wanted them. The only reason I bring this up is that if the guy doesn't know what he wants other than it's 36 inches wide I would be cautious. Make sure you get a good size down payment before you start.

Most of us would know exactly what we want, even if we were buying KLOSE or GATOR or anything else. We'd tell the fabricator EXACTLY what we wanted.
Click to expand...

As with all my expensive builds, I am sure to at least collect 1/2 down which covers my materials and partial labor. I will experiment with offering something thrown in free if paid in full upfront. (IE - delivery?)

Balls Casten said:
no one has mentioned a water jacket to throw a little moisture in there.
Click to expand...

I had thought about that but I will leave that up to the customer to decide later. He can put a water pan or have me fab something later.

Divemaster said:
Now I know what your talking about... I would still go with a baffle between the fire box and cooking chamber.

The 'duct' you are talking about (on my Lang) is built out of a solid piece shapped like '--v--' this way the juices (and grease) collect in the 'v' and run down to a drain pipe that goes through the bottom of the cooking chamber and into a bucket. What you are talking about is more along the lines of 'tuning plates' and I don't think would work in a reverse flow configuration.
Click to expand...

Agree'd. I do like the V config for draining. Is 1/8" thick enough for that? I think for the small size of this build, I want to make it full of features but not make every piece as if it were going into battle with an M-1 Abrams.
 
Smokin Turkey said:
Agree'd. I do like the V config for draining. Is 1/8" thick enough for that? I think for the small size of this build, I want to make it full of features but not make every piece as if it were going into battle with an M-1 Abrams.
Click to expand...

Yea, I think you can get away with 1/8" if you are using a heavy duty baffle to absorb the direct heat coming out of the fire box or even 1/4" for the first 12 to 18" and then 1/8" after... That would lighten it up a bit and still protect the hotest end of the cook chamber... But what do I know... I always build them to last 100 years....
 
I'm sorry if you took offense. I am ok with using 3/16" for it but I don't have access to a break for anything larger than 1/8" steel. i can break 1/8" x 8' though.

If I were make it from 3/16" I would have to cut and weld instead of doing a break.

I am appreciative of all your advise and wisdom.
 
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