Ugly Drum Smoker

[jgp54321]

Doing a burnout on my two drums tomorrow and some last opinions before we go at it. They are unlined/food grade but have the rust inhibitor. Plan is to flip them over and burn off the paint/rust inhibitor from the outside with the weed burner. Wash the inside we a power washer and sand the outside to get ready to paint. Any issue with that regarding the rust inhibitor? If at all possible, I'd like to not climb inside to sand it but want to be safe as well...

Also, if I spray the inside with cooking spray - how long can I wait for my first seasoning burn, depending on weather and how long this takes it may be a week or more unfortunately...

[dadsr4]

Originally Posted by BearDownSmoky

Just joined the Brethren this week due to this amazing thread! I've been through the first fifty or so pages and the amount awesome tips and info has been incredible! I must say an entertaining read as well. I'll be picking up a drum in the next couple weeks for my first UDS. It's been awhile since I've this excited!

I'm not sure it's possible to read this entire thread without taking a week off from work, but I'm thinking about it!

Just don't sleep much until you're done.

[Bad Actor]

I used the weed burner on the outside and it burned the rust inhibitor out. I still used a wire cup on the inside as I was using it on the outside anyway. Felt like it was cheap insurance, and it only took another 15 minutes or so.

As far as a seasoning run goes, I wouldn't think it would matter much for just a week or two. But definitely coat the inside when done sanding, it will rust almost immediately.

[HomebrewTJ]

Finally got started on my UDS after acquiring all the pieces and parts over the winter. I'm using a Weber lid (with 2" of the top of the kettle for proper fit, a Big Green Egg intake vent door, and 2 racks inside. I used a weed burner to burn off the paint and remove the interior rust inhibitor. Seemed to work great.

All that's left is to sand it down, paint and season, and I'll be ready to roll!

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[Doug Crann]

all intakes shut....a 2" exhaust open and my UDS is holding a steady 220*....huh???

[biggin69]

Originally Posted by Doug Crann

all intakes shut....a 2" exhaust open and my UDS is holding a steady 220*....huh???

She's suckung air somewhere. Try plugging the exhaust. I currently use the flat lid on my uds with the 2" hole for exhaust. To extinguish, I simply close the intakes and put the 2" bung back in the hole and she is out within 5-10 minutes.

[Doug Crann]

Originally Posted by biggin69

She's suckung air somewhere. Try plugging the exhaust. I currently use the flat lid on my uds with the 2" hole for exhaust. To extinguish, I simply close the intakes and put the 2" bung back in the hole and she is out within 5-10 minutes.

That is what I figured. I used floor flanges for the intakes. Can't help but wonder if they are leaking a bit. Slathered some Hi Temp rtv around them....waiting to see.
Drums I got are all flat lids, no bungs. If it persists I am going to take all the intake flanges off and silicone them on the right way....see what happens from there....

[biggin69]

Originally Posted by Doug Crann

That is what I figured. I used floor flanges for the intakes. Can't help but wonder if they are leaking a bit. Slathered some Hi Temp rtv around them....waiting to see.
Drums I got are all flat lids, no bungs. If it persists I am going to take all the intake flanges off and silicone them on the right way....see what happens from there....

Leaving the exhaust open may be enough to keep it going as well. Try covering it with the intakes closed as well and see what happens.

[TXLX]

Originally Posted by jgp54321

Doing a burnout on my two drums tomorrow and some last opinions before we go at it. They are unlined/food grade but have the rust inhibitor. Plan is to flip them over and burn off the paint/rust inhibitor from the outside with the weed burner. Wash the inside we a power washer and sand the outside to get ready to paint. Any issue with that regarding the rust inhibitor? If at all possible, I'd like to not climb inside to sand it but want to be safe as well...

Also, if I spray the inside with cooking spray - how long can I wait for my first seasoning burn, depending on weather and how long this takes it may be a week or more unfortunately...

I just used a lot of soap and water on the rust inhibitor on my drums. It felt petroleum based, so I gave it a shot. It started rusting the next day, so I guessed it worked.

[Doug Crann]

Originally Posted by biggin69

Leaving the exhaust open may be enough to keep it going as well. Try covering it with the intakes closed as well and see what happens.

I shut shut the exhaust and closed the ball valve til the temp was done around 175*. Opened the exhaust and cracked the ball valve open very little...hovered around 235* for an hour before I got busy and snuffed it out.
I have "dual exhaust", they are both 2" pipes, 4 foot long. When I was screwing around with it I only had one exhaust open.

puff.jpg

Can't help but wonder if the length of the exhaust is not creating quite a bit of draft....Going to take the intake flanges off and seal them the correct way and try it again....

[dennisbrok]

If you havend made one start on one best meat best ribs best bbq i ever ate love this machine !!!

[Bushman5]

can't find thermometers to thread into the drum wall anywhere....(brick and mortar stores).

where is everyone finding these threaded thermos with long probes?

[biggin69]

Originally Posted by Bushman5

can't find thermometers to thread into the drum wall anywhere....(brick and mortar stores).

where is everyone finding these threaded thermos with long probes?

I picked one up for mine at Lowes but it does not have a long probe.

[Bushman5]

Hmmm, the Lowes near me musta been outta stock then......i'll check in a few days . Thanks Brethren.

[Kaptain Kadian]

Academy has a few options, and amazon has a ton of options