Ugly Drum Smoker

[---k---]

Originally Posted by Anchors Smokeshop

Do I have to go through all 449 pages of this thread, or can someone tell me where I can find the specs to build a UDS?

If you set your settings to 50 per page, it is only 135 pages.

Try this link:
http://hawgfathers.com/RD.aspx

and this:
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=43943
but even that thread, you have to read a ways into it, because the first post didn't get edited. Luckily, you just have to look at the photos.

[Paul B]

Originally Posted by Anchors Smokeshop

Do I have to go through all 449 pages of this thread, or can someone tell me where I can find the specs to build a UDS?

Yes, it is a right of passage.....Heehee.

Paul B
SS UDS

[MushCreek]

Originally Posted by Anchors Smokeshop

Do I have to go through all 449 pages of this thread, or can someone tell me where I can find the specs to build a UDS?

The preferred method is to build your first UDS without reading the thread, than go back and find out what you did wrong!

[chassup]

Originally Posted by Anchors Smokeshop

Do I have to go through all 449 pages of this thread, or can someone tell me where I can find the specs to build a UDS?

Wax on, wax off.

[Rodney]

Originally Posted by Anchors Smokeshop

Do I have to go through all 449 pages of this thread, or can someone tell me where I can find the specs to build a UDS?

Here's a clue: If you read the posts from newest to oldest, you'll probably run across someone asking the same question and getting some answers.

[Southern Home Boy]

Building a UDS is like BBQ itself; it's more about the journey than the actual end-product

In all seriousness, slogging through the thread is truly well worth the time to do it. There are conversations imbedded within it that discuss a variety of issues having to do with intake draw, firebasket construction, exhaust options, grate placement, thermometer placement, types of thermometers and more that help you understand how the UDS works, not just build one.

Understanding the cooker you build will save you a lot of frustration and wasted money on botched cooks.

OR....

Just take a 55 Gal, open-head drum, cut three holes in sides about an inch from the bottom of the barrel with a 1" bi-metal hole saw, thread in three 3/4" black iron close pipe nipples, anchor them on the inside with conduit nuts, burn it out till it glows cherry red, wirebrush the inside till it's down to bare metal, build your firebasket, measure 24" up from the bottom of your firebasket and mark that as your cooking grate level. Put in three 2" stainless steel bolts to hold your cooking grate. Immediately under the grate, drill a hole for a 12" stem turkey frier thermometer to anchor in. In the lid, screw in a piece of 2" pipe about 12" long into the 2" bung hole. Put a handle on the lid, some bricks under the drum to keep it off the ground, coat the inside of the clean, bare metal drum hardware and cooking grate with cooking spray, load up the firebasket with about 5-6 lbs. of charcoal, light one full chimney of coals to put on top, open up all your intakes and let it burn for another 5-10 hours to season the inside of the drum. POOF: UDS ready to cook on.

If you have any questions about ANY of that.... READ THE THREAD!!!

[Rodney]

Originally Posted by Southern Home Boy

Building a UDS is like BBQ itself; it's more about the journey than the actual end-product

In all seriousness, slogging through the thread is truly well worth the time to do it. There are conversations imbedded within it that discuss a variety of issues having to do with intake draw, firebasket construction, exhaust options, grate placement, thermometer placement, types of thermometers and more that help you understand how the UDS works, not just build one.

Understanding the cooker you build will save you a lot of frustration and wasted money on botched cooks.

OR....

Just take a 55 Gal, open-head drum, cut three holes in sides about an inch from the bottom of the barrel with a 1" bi-metal hole saw, thread in three 3/4" black iron close pipe nipples, anchor them on the inside with conduit nuts, burn it out till it glows cherry red, wirebrush the inside till it's down to bare metal, build your firebasket, measure 24" up from the bottom of your firebasket and mark that as your cooking grate level. Put in three 2" stainless steel bolts to hold your cooking grate. Immediately under the grate, drill a hole for a 12" stem turkey frier thermometer to anchor in. In the lid, screw in a piece of 2" pipe about 12" long into the 2" bung hole. Put a handle on the lid, some bricks under the drum to keep it off the ground, coat the inside of the clean, bare metal drum hardware and cooking grate with cooking spray, load up the firebasket with about 5-6 lbs. of charcoal, light one full chimney of coals to put on top, open up all your intakes and let it burn for another 5-10 hours to season the inside of the drum. POOF: UDS ready to cook on.

If you have any questions about ANY of that.... READ THE THREAD!!!

A couple points about what you've written here:
1) The 12" pipe makes a nice handle by itself,
2) Only about 10-12 lit briquettes are needed to get the UDS started, otherwise it'll likely get too hot right off the bat (based on Norco's recommendation and my personal experience with 2 runs where I thought I knew better!)
3) Some kind of bushing is needed to support the turkey fryer thermometer (this is a good research item! Several good ideas exist out there...)

-Rodney

[Southern Home Boy]

Originally Posted by Rodney

A couple points about what you've written here:
1) The 12" pipe makes a nice handle by itself,
2) Only about 10-12 lit briquettes are needed to get the UDS started, otherwise it'll likely get too hot right off the bat (based on Norco's recommendation and my personal experience with 2 runs where I thought I knew better!)
3) Some kind of bushing is needed to support the turkey fryer thermometer (this is a good research item! Several good ideas exist out there...)

-Rodney

Actually, just about every point I mentioned could be a good research item. There's at least three or four ways to do each and every step I described.

The higher temps from a full chimney are for seasoning purposes, not necessarily cooking. The oil doesn't really get "baked on" unless your temps get above 400* for at least an hour. The longer you can maintain that higher temp, the better your seasoning coat will be.

Anchors Smokeshop seemed to want a "this is how you do it" answer.

My point was truly that it is better to read through the whole thread - long, cumbersome and sometimes monotonous as it is - so that a person can get a feel for what works best for them instead of simply trying to rely on one description or what worked for someone else.

[Rodney]

Originally Posted by Southern Home Boy

Actually, just about every point I mentioned could be a good research item. There's at least three or four ways to do each and every step I described.

The higher temps from a full chimney are for seasoning purposes, not necessarily cooking. The oil doesn't really get "baked on" unless your temps get above 400* for at least an hour. The longer you can maintain that higher temp, the better your seasoning coat will be.

Anchors Smokeshop seemed to want a "this is how you do it" answer.

My point was truly that it is better to read through the whole thread - long, cumbersome and sometimes monotonous as it is - so that a person can get a feel for what works best for them instead of simply trying to rely on one description or what worked for someone else.

Ahh... that makes sense. I totally agree. I did it too.

[chaddie]

Is it a right of passage? Me kinda thinks so. I have a weber dome but it doesn't fit, what now? Did I turn the drum upside down and check dome fit? Yes I did, it fit perfectly! So how do I cut the bottem out? Depends on the tools you have available. I have a lever lock flat top with no bung holes and no way to cut a 2" hole? What are my exhaust options? Will 8- 1/2" holes work? I don't want to buy expanded steel for my fire basket, but I have a square basket, will that work? How high should the basket be off the bottom? How do I get the ashes out!...etc...etc. I could go on and on. I did my build when the page count was #291, and I've read every page since and STILL learning! NOTHING IS CHISELD IN STONE! The guide lines of what works good and maybe not so good are in this thread. You don't have to read it to build a UDS, but I'm very glad I did and still do!

[kyle corn]

Just about ready to finish my UDS. I just need to drill the holes for the openings and paint and it's ready. I have all the nipples and a ball valve but while at Home Depot today I almost bought a 3' piece of pipe and a 90* arm so that I could relocate the valve up higher so I don't have to bend down. I decided to put it back and just get it cooking before I "modify" it.

However, it got me thinking, is there any difference in how the cooker vents if the valve is down low or if you relocate it up higher? Or does it do it's job no matter where it's at?

[DawgDrvr]

I found these on Portland ,OR CL. Stainless 55 gal drums for $220 or best offer .

with pic's

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/for/1947810761.html


"55 Gallon stainless clean barrels for sale. Make beer, wine, whatever. I have all sorts of brewing stuff for sale and will even make you a brewing system for the right price. I can make brew pots out of the 55 gallon drums for an additional $100-150 each depending on parts. I may be able to make a price break if more than one drum is bought at a time. The price is for one drum. These are used but in great shape. They sell for $700 to $1000 brand new from the manufacturer so this is a great deal. "

[expatpig]

Originally Posted by kyle corn

Just about ready to finish my UDS. I just need to drill the holes for the openings and paint and it's ready. I have all the nipples and a ball valve but while at Home Depot today I almost bought a 3' piece of pipe and a 90* arm so that I could relocate the valve up higher so I don't have to bend down. I decided to put it back and just get it cooking before I "modify" it.

However, it got me thinking, is there any difference in how the cooker vents if the valve is down low or if you relocate it up higher? Or does it do it's job no matter where it's at?

The UDS doesn't care, but I don't like bending over.

[N8man]

I built mine with the riser air intake and it has been a joy to cook on...
I used 1" i.d. Black Pipe....And don't forget, you can use magnets instead of the ball valves to regulate the air intake...

Originally Posted by kyle corn

Just about ready to finish my UDS. I just need to drill the holes for the openings and paint and it's ready. I have all the nipples and a ball valve but while at Home Depot today I almost bought a 3' piece of pipe and a 90* arm so that I could relocate the valve up higher so I don't have to bend down. I decided to put it back and just get it cooking before I "modify" it.

However, it got me thinking, is there any difference in how the cooker vents if the valve is down low or if you relocate it up higher? Or does it do it's job no matter where it's at?

[Sugar-T]

I say no cheating. I am a newby on here and I was told a few times to read the thread... read the thread... so, being one to not want to cause a fight, I read the thread and know what. I feel it is a rite to passage. now don't ask me who said what but I have all the parts together and plan on building me a drum very very soon. I wish I was a welder, pipefitter, painter, mechanic and maybe mine will turn out like some of these "amature" made cooking drums.

keep up the good work, I read daily and learn something each and every day.

Now, what is the best rub to use on Pork and one Beef....he he he

Sugar