Uds ash?

Mo-Dave

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Its time to empty my uds and I am also wanting to start a small vegetable/flour garden. My question, would adding the ash from the uds or any smoker to my garden be a good thing or not.
Dave
 
Nope, not a good idea depending what fuel you are using.
 
Charcoal ash isn't good. The real wood ash may be OK in moderation. Native Americans used to mix wood ash into the soil where they grew food and some of those ancient plots still have rich soil in them.
 
I compost my lump and real wood ash. But yeah, like Boshizzle says, if there's any charcoal in there you shouldn't use it - especially on vegetable's you might eat. If you end up composting the lump/real wood ash just be careful not to over do it - it can really mess with the pH of your soil.
 
Here is some info I came across.

"Here is the official ingredient list for Kingsford Charcoal Briquets from a company press release, including the purpose of each ingredient in parentheses. The explanation after each ingredient is my own.
Wood char (Heat source)
This is simply the wood by-products I mentioned above, burned down into charcoal—almost pure carbon. In the case of Kingsford, they use woods like fir, cedar, and alder that are local to the regions in which they operate—Burnside and Summer Shade, Kentucky; Glen, Mississippi; Belle, Missouri; Springfield, Oregon; and Beryl and Parsons, West Virginia.
Mineral char (Heat source)
This is a geologically young form of coal with a soft, brown texture. It helps Kingsford burn hotter and longer than a plain charcoal briquette. As with the wood, Kingsford heats this material in an oxygen-controlled environment, eliminating water, nitrogen, and other elements, leaving behind—almost pure carbon.
Mineral carbon (Heat source)
This is anthracite coal, the old, hard, black stuff once commonly used for home heating. It helps Kingsford burn hotter and longer than a plain charcoal briquette. It's already 86-98% pure carbon, but once again, Kingsford processes it in an oxygen-controlled environment, leaving behind—almost pure carbon.
What exactly is coal, you ask? "Nasty stuff," some folks say. Well, coal is a fossil fuel, most of which was formed more than 300 million years ago. To make a really, really long story short: Plants and trees died, sank to the bottom of swampy areas, accumulated into many layers, then geologic processes covered the stuff with sand, clay, and rock, and the combination of heat and pressure converted it into what we call coal.
So, coal is really old plant material that can be processed into almost pure carbon. Charcoal is wood that is burned down into almost pure carbon. Not much difference, in my book. End of coal lesson.
Limestone (Uniform visual ashing)
Limestone creates the pretty, white coating of ash you see after lighting the briquettes. Limestone is a sedimentary rock consisting of calcium carbonate—also found in egg shells, antacids, and calcium dietary supplements.
Starch (Binder)
As mentioned above, starch is used to hold briquettes together, and is found in corn, wheat, potatoes, and rice.
Borax (Press release)
Borax is used in small amounts to help briquettes release from the molds. But isn't Borax a detergent? Well, yes, it is, but it's actually a naturally-occurring mineral that is non-toxic in the quantities we're talking about in a briquette. It consists of sodium, boron, oxygen, and water. You already know what oxygen and water are. Sodium is a common element found in lots of stuff we eat, including salt. Boron is an element that is necessary in small quantities for plant growth. Borax is commonly used in cosmetics and medicines.
Sodium nitrate (Ignition aid)
This is the same stuff used to cure meat. According to Robert L. Wolke, professor emeritus of chemistry at the University of Pittsburgh, sodium nitrate gives off oxygen when heated, helping the briquettes to light faster.
Sawdust (Ignition aid)
Sawdust burns quickly, helping the briquettes to light faster.
Did you notice there was no mention of "petroleum by-products" or "toxic waste"? What about "fillers"? Looks like every ingredient is there for a purpose—to improve the performance of the product."
"
Nothing I see that would mess up compost.

Dave
 
use wood ash sparingly, very alkaline.

The ground around here is very much clay and rock, I would think alkaline would be a good thing but as you and others have said probably best used sparingly. P.S. I could be very wrong about this.
Dave
 
What kind of flours are you growing?

Not sure but thought I would put a boarder around the garden with flowers that would repeal insects and attract insect that would only eat other insects. I think marigolds are good for that and I know there are others. Wish I could find some that repelled deer, groundhog and raccoons, know of any. :pray:
Dave
 
not sure but thought i would put a boarder around the garden with flowers that would repeal insects and attract insect that would only eat other insects. I think marigolds are good for that and i know there are others. Wish i could find some that repelled deer, groundhog and raccoons, know of any. :pray:
Dave


.22lr :-d
 
You really need to get your soil checked for alkalinity, then contact your local garden extension club for advice.:wink:
 
The ground around here is very much clay and rock, I would think alkaline would be a good thing but as you and others have said probably best used sparingly. P.S. I could be very wrong about this.
Dave

The best answer to your question can be answered by sending a soil sample to your horticultural extension agency. In my area, we also have clay and rock which already is high in alkalinity. Adding ash is NOT recommended.
 

The best answer to your question can be answered by sending a soil sample to your horticultural extension agency. In my area, we also have clay and rock which already is high in alkalinity. Adding ash is NOT recommended.

Yes I think I was thinking limestone dust for clay. I have grown things in the past but going a little bigger this year and was wanting to build up the soil a bit.
Dave
 
while on the subject of gardening, anyone got tips for growing lettuce and parsley? Was gonna try growing our own garnish.
 
while on the subject of gardening, anyone got tips for growing lettuce and parsley? Was gonna try growing our own garnish.

Parsley should be no problem. That stuff is like a weed, it grows even if you ignore it. I've not had much luck with lettuce and other salad greens. Could just be that the climate down here is not suitable. I think people around here only try it in the fall when it's a little cooler. Not sure how that would work up there.
 
Not sure but thought I would put a boarder around the garden with flowers that would repeal insects and attract insect that would only eat other insects. I think marigolds are good for that and I know there are others. Wish I could find some that repelled deer, groundhog and raccoons, know of any. :pray:
Dave
A 50/50 mix of cayane and talc powder will discourage any critter from laying on or eating them. You have reapply after rain. A lot cheeper than a 10 ft. fence or 20 ft. moat. :-D
 
Not sure but thought I would put a boarder around the garden with flowers that would repeal insects
Dave
Chrysanthemums are what you want to plant.

Pyrethrins attack the nervous systems of all insects, and inhibit female mosquitoes from biting. When not present in amounts fatal to insects, they still appear to have an insect repellent effect. They are harmful to fish, but are far less toxic to mammals and birds than many synthetic insecticides, except in consumer airborne backyard applications. They are non-persistent, being biodegradable and also breaking down easily on exposure to light. They are considered to be amongst the safest insecticides for use around food. (Pyrethroids are synthetic insecticides based on natural pyrethrum, e.g., permethrin.
 
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