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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, equipment and outdoor cookin' . ** Other cooking techniques are welcomed for when your cookin' in the kitchen. Post your hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures, but stay on topic and watch for that hijacking.


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Old 03-29-2008, 02:13 PM   #1
BBQ Bandit
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Question Barrel mod ala UDS

Got a question that needs to be asked.

Currently designing my double barrel smoker and was pondering of eliminating the side firebox door because of designing/cutting a lifting door for the lower barrel.

That direction would retain the original shape and bung holes... see what I see? If I position and rotate the sealed barrel so the largest 2" NPT hole is on the bottom (6:00 position), that placement is screaming for a 2" ball valve/pipe arrangement very much like the UDS set-up.

Based on area (3.14 * (r^2)) leaves a few similarities...

On most UDS I've read: (4) 1" holes for incoming air equals 3.14 sq. inches.
Using the 2" bung hole/valve roughly equals the same amount in square inches (3.14)

Am I going in a semi-lucid direction? Please advise...
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Last edited by BBQ Bandit; 03-29-2008 at 02:41 PM..
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Old 03-29-2008, 02:43 PM   #2
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Default Air Control

I'm not qualified to check your math, but I use the 2" bung as my air inlet and it is NEVER used wide open for smoking. Usually more like ⅛ to ¼ open for 225-240 degrees.

I do open it all the way for cleaning (its a self-cleaning smoker, you see...) and that will give me a temp of 350-375 (burning Rancher bricks and living in SoCal). That is plenty hot enough to burn off the moisture and much of the grease after a half hour or so.

Another idea I've been toying with is using an automotive throttle body instead of a ball valve. From the right salvage yard or swap shop, its bound to be cheaper than a new 2" ball valve. Its shorter. And with a little work it can just be bolted onto the drum rather than threaded onto a nipple (making it stick out farther still.) Its spring loaded butterfly and cable actuation are just begging for creative mechanisms and linkages for actuation. Cessna aircraft style throttle control is my current thinking. But I also like the trick little levers the ALMS and World Challenge cars use for their adjustable sway bars...



Its just possible I spend more time thinking about this stuff than I should. I'm not sure though.
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Old 03-29-2008, 03:13 PM   #3
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2'' bal valves are cheap. lol

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Old 03-29-2008, 08:18 PM   #4
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From this...

To the intended direction...



Will be adding a hold-down latch then completiing the upper smoke chamber. Maybe using big rig exhaust tips later. All suggestions are appreciated. Its much safer doing mods on the computer before I go for the power tools .

Learning with your help,
PA
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Old 03-29-2008, 08:44 PM   #5
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That long tube is going to be your air intake? It looks sweet. Is that the double barrel heater kit?
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Old 03-29-2008, 08:54 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_KY View Post
2'' bal valves are cheap. lol


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Old 03-29-2008, 09:00 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinesebob View Post
That long tube is going to be your air intake? It looks sweet. Is that the double barrel heater kit?
Yes sir... on both counts.

Burnin' them brain cells on a turbo-charged rate...
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Old 03-30-2008, 11:55 AM   #8
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I like the design, keep us informed how it comes out, I was going to go this route, but I spoke with BigMista and went to the place he had his 1st UDS made. The guy just could not understand what I was after. The bottom barrel is to be your firebox / grill unit, and most of your smoking done in the top barrel?
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Old 03-30-2008, 01:07 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Norcoredneck View Post
Bling Bling, Cha-Ching $$$

Did the seat of your pants make sparks the day you left work with that tucked in your drawers?
Hahahahahahahaa!

Nahhh I walked straight through and past the managers office with it in my hands whilst dancing a jig. He stopped me and asked what his percentage of BBQ was going to be after the weekend.
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Old 03-30-2008, 01:13 PM   #10
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PA:

Just wondering about pointing that intake straight up... Seems like it would fill up with water if left in the rain. Pointing the intake down would be an easy fix if you don't have to have the valve at waist level. Just thinking out loud.
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Old 03-30-2008, 02:30 PM   #11
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Wheres the exhaust??
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Old 03-30-2008, 03:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Wheres the exhaust??
On my things to add yet. Was focusing on the bottom firepit barrel first...
Thinking of using Tractor trailer rig exhaust tips... with the flap baffle fixed in a 45 degree angle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thawley View Post
PA:

Just wondering about pointing that intake straight up... Seems like it would fill up with water if left in the rain. Pointing the intake down would be an easy fix if you don't have to have the valve at waist level. Just thinking out loud.
Thanks for reminding me to add a cone vent topper. The valve was placed to eliminate the possibility (if the valve stuck out the bottom horizontally) to be a tripping hazzard or to be nudged accidentally without anyone's knowledge.

The bottom barrel will hold an extra-wide fireplace grate (found @ $30) that does have removeable sides... about 4" tall. Expanded metal will line the firegrate. (Thanks to Country HB).

Yea... my thinking is kinda expensive...
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Old 03-31-2008, 12:12 PM   #13
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It's looking good. Have fun with the design!
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Old 03-31-2008, 12:50 PM   #14
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Looks like your planning to use the Vogelzang Barrel Stove & top drum kits.

From what you show you will not be using the Vogelzang door. Personally, I'd use it. But I'd also use it on a drum with a removable lid. That way you can remove the lid for periodic cleaning.
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