Newbie questions

I've read the first 50 pages of this thread and intend to read the rest. However, I'm excited to get started and have a couple of questions.

1. I have a barrel that had spinach puree baby food in it and it has a rust colored paint inside. Do I have to get it down to bare metal for it to work?

2. To burn it out, how much wood do I use (quarter full, half full, etc)?

3. Do I drill the intake holes before I burn it out?

4. How many burns does it take to get the paint off?

5. I plan on using 4 3/4 inch ball valves for intake. Is this overkill?

I apologize if these questions were answered in one of the 700 other pages that I haven't read, I'm just so excited to get started.
 

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"rust colored paint"

For one thing your rust colored paint is an epoxy liner. If your fire laws permit open burning then probably half or a little more should do a pretty good job. I won't say that 4 intake holes is overkill, but depending on the exhaust ports you use, three should be adequate. Don't take what I have said here as absolute, you should get more feedback and continue reading the threads. You might want to keep notes with page numbers so that as you gather info you can sort of keep score and the number of pros and cons to the many building options you will face.
HAPPY building - keep it fun!:clap2:
 
This place is frickin awesome. I'm only on page 81, but I've already learned sooo much. My drum is at the sandblasters as we speak and I have 3 cans of high temp spray paint waiting for her return. I plan on coating the inside with crisco, turning the drum upside down, and hitting it with a good coat or 2 of paint. Then, I can start contemplating what size and number of intakes and what size/type/numbers of exhaust ports. I think I have a good handle on the charcoal basket and luckily, I know a guy who is a really good metal guy. Now, I just need to read from page 81 to page 790 for the other modifications I may want.
 
x2 on the epoxy liner. One good burn will remove the paint. I always had cold spots with my burns and the paint at the bottom was always the last to burn off but I use pallet wood and I always cut into 5ths instead of a bunch of chunks. I bet if I used smaller pieces and packed the drum with more of it then the paint would have burnt off much sooner. Can't go overkill on intakes. Trust me. You can always cap em off but you can't open what you don't have. I always drilled my intake holes before I burn but that's a preference.
 
I've read the first 50 pages of this thread and intend to read the rest. However, I'm excited to get started and have a couple of questions.

1. I have a barrel that had spinach puree baby food in it and it has a rust colored paint inside. Do I have to get it down to bare metal for it to work?



So the world actually needs 55 gallons of spinach puree baby food? That's gotta be one unique barrel, not too many of those floating around! I've got images of Popeye babies...just kidding.
 
I've read the first 50 pages of this thread and intend to read the rest. However, I'm excited to get started and have a couple of questions.

1. I have a barrel that had spinach puree baby food in it and it has a rust colored paint inside. Do I have to get it down to bare metal for it to work?



Yes you need to be down to bare metal on the inside.
 
Haha. I tend to over engineer everything so I'm just restricting myself.

I've read 75% of this thread and have about 30 of the most informative posts/links saved.

I want to document the build, but like I said, pressed for time.

I'll definitely have pictures when its finished.

I have a couple questions if anyone has ideas or opinions...

Isn't a diffuser vital for even cooking? I see most people don't have one so I assume it's not but it seems like there would be uneven heat distribution without one. The heat from the caracoles should be more concentrated directly under the charcoals.

Second, has anyone done any math on air flow vs. temperature? I wonder how large the exhaust should be compared to the intake for the best temperature regulation.

That would depend on outside temperature etc so I guess it's really complicated...
not sure if it was really temp testing with intake size.
what i found on my drums is with 1 inch holes (2 opened 3/4 way open using magnets) my drum would settle around 230 ish. Then added 3/4 inch pipes and ball valves, now i open both all the way when starting and it'll settle at 250 every time, unless its really windy
 
If you are cooking low and slow, you are dealing with indirect heat and convection currents - they do a good job of diffusing. The only real problems with hotspots I have found is higher heats and food directly under my smokestack. Since I now use a BBQ guru and have forced air - I generally run with the smokestack closed. The lid leaks evenly enough(with forced air) that there is no smokestack hotspot.
 
not sure if it was really temp testing with intake size.
what i found on my drums is with 1 inch holes (2 opened 3/4 way open using magnets) my drum would settle around 230 ish. Then added 3/4 inch pipes and ball valves, now i open both all the way when starting and it'll settle at 250 every time, unless its really windy

Every drum is different. I made my second UDS with 2 one inch intakes each with a ball valve and 12" risers. It looked cool and bad ass kinda mad max style lol. But in truth I never had so many issues getting the temps to climb when I wanted them to without removing a lid. Oh it would hold 250 all day long with one valve full open but I occasionally want to got hot n fast for poultry. So I scrapped my risers and put both valves directly on the nipples horizontal. After that one valve full open and other closed held a steady 290-310 for several hours. And I could get good "throttle response" :thumb: with my temps rising and dipping from valve adjustments. I think one fully open 1" valve is still less than your two 1" holes each opened 3/4 of the way. You got to feel you own drum and see how it works for you.
 
I think I'm done with mine. It's mobile thanks to cheapy handtrucks from Lowe's. I found the folding table thing at an auction. It's tri-colored for now, and not very pretty. But it is very functional!


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I just got finished reading this entire thread, took me a while. I decided within the first 200 posts that I wanted to build a UDS since I have not been able to get the low and slow style on my Weber OTS. Rather than post sporadically here as the build progresses, I have started a build thread here: http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=187208

It will be a Jacksonville Jaguars 1st helmet design theme when completed,

77no.jpg


but pretty much a kiss UDS. The only real mods are going to be a bad back ball-valve extension and a non-diffuser, non-water pan attempt to even out temperatures from center to edge. (Read my build journal for more info)

I will post some of the major progress photos as these milestones are reached.
 
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it is amazing, maybe not so much, after we do one, how much stuff we do was not needed and how much we don't do might be...as you found out when you studied the thread...smart too.

Simple is best usually in the beginning and almost always later.

One thing, water not needed, not used in TX pro joints either. Just light is and crack beers.
 
it is amazing, maybe not so much, after we do one, how much stuff we do was not needed and how much we don't do might be...as you found out when you studied the thread...smart too.

Simple is best usually in the beginning and almost always later.

One thing, water not needed, not used in TX pro joints either. Just light is and crack beers.

Your spot on. My second attempt at one got a little more fancy and it did not work as good. So I stripped it down and made it basic again and now it works so much better.
 
Building my first UDS, and thus has been a great read, thanks to everyone who contributed! I have 2 barrels at my disposal, possibly 3. I was looking doing a few mods.

1. Taking 1/3 or 2/3 of the second barrel and cutting and welding it on top of the base, both standing upright. Thought this might get up further from the heat and provide extra room for a good sized second rack.

2. Thought about putting a baffle above the fire, could double as a water retainer holder.

3. Welding 4 feet on the bottom, 2 with wheels, for easier moving

4. Adding doors on the sides, at least one in the bottom to get to fire basket

Any thoughts on these would be greatly appreciated, I'm definitely not an expert and if you guys think any of these are bad idea, PLEASE let me know! You won't hurt my feelings, rather do it right the first time
 
Building my first UDS, and thus has been a great read, thanks to everyone who contributed! I have 2 barrels at my disposal, possibly 3. I was looking doing a few mods.

1. Taking 1/3 or 2/3 of the second barrel and cutting and welding it on top of the base, both standing upright. Thought this might get up further from the heat and provide extra room for a good sized second rack.

2. Thought about putting a baffle above the fire, could double as a water retainer holder.

3. Welding 4 feet on the bottom, 2 with wheels, for easier moving

4. Adding doors on the sides, at least one in the bottom to get to fire basket

Any thoughts on these would be greatly appreciated, I'm definitely not an expert and if you guys think any of these are bad idea, PLEASE let me know! You won't hurt my feelings, rather do it right the first time


Some ideas you just have to try yourself and see what works. I have asked tons of questions on these forums and have gotten much good advice but what works well for some people hasn't worked too well for me. Good luck and keep us posted with pics!
 
I suppose I'll add my rotisserie only UDS to the mix. Since this has no charcoal grates it's gonna run sticks or charcoal... the charcoal basket is over sized 17x6.







[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkHHN4bSI8E"]Drum rotisserie build test - YouTube[/ame]
 
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Been wanting to build my own UDS for a couple years now. My buddy has been wanting to buy a couple gateways. Week and a half ago I did my burnout of 2 open top drums. Had one with tan liner (only bought it because it was a heavier gauge) and one without. Sanded down the lined drum, prepped, painted, and assemble. Been a week now and still haven't fired it up. I've been coughing my lungs out since the build. I'm hoping I just got a cold or sinus infection and not liner remnants.
 

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