WSM 18.5 - Perimeter heat diffuser?

G

Ground Pounder

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Played around with the new 18.5 WSM and few different coal loads to find a "sweet spot" over the weekend. During the temp trials, I noticed a pretty good difference on both racks on the outer 1-2 inches of the cooking surface - as much as 50 degrees in some cases - which I'd imagine is due to the heat radiating out to the sides past the water pan.

Has anyone rigged up a decent-fitting reverse-diffuser to combat this, and push the heat back towards the center of the cooker?

I know that just foiling the outer edge of the cooking rack would work, but I'm thinking that putting something closer to the water pan - say 1-2 inches above - may help redistribute the heat back towards the center of the cooker without causing an outer hot spot through the body.

Thoughts and ideas are appreciated!
 
If the water pan has something in it, whether it be water, sand, or some other material, the heat equalization above the pan is going to be much better than with an empty pan.
 
Did you have water in the pan or was it empty?

Ran two trials with water, two with sand. Water actually ran hotter on the perimeter than sand at lower temps (225 in the middle, 275 on the perimeter). But the sand still had about 20 degrees variance as well.
 
I just don't put any meat on the outer 2" if I can help it.

Unfortunately, that's the burden I have to live with, as I plan on filling this thing up!

Not going to complain about having such an awesome cooker though, as this is a small obstacle to overcome :-D
 
I'm not sure what to suggest. There is a lot of physics going on inside one of these cookers. You will also find that your center grate temp and edge temp variations are going to change again when you put a big slab of meat on the grate.
 
Have someone cut you a 1/4" steel ring that fits down inside the pit. The O.D. should be snug enough to fit the center section with very little clearance. Let the ring itself be about 4" wide. Attach the ring 3-4" above the water pan mounts. This should help push the heat back toward the center, no?

I've never tried this, but it sounds good at first thought.
 
Have someone cut you a 1/4" steel ring that fits down inside the pit. The O.D. should be snug enough to fit the center section with very little clearance. Let the ring itself be about 4" wide. Attach the ring 3-4" above the water pan mounts. This should help push the heat back toward the center, no?
The only issue with this idea is that by mounting it, it becomes impossible to remove the bottom grate, and you would lose up to 8" of cooking space on the bottom grate.
 
If I have to put meat on the outer 2" of the grate, I put foil under it. Like this brisket:
4874321014_1d39063b4d_z.jpg
 
Reading a bit on the Virtual Bullet forums, I think I may be able to create a reverse baffle using a deeper Brinkman water pan and doing a little modification. Pron to come later on tonight...
 
Why don't UDS's have this problem? They have the opposite problem.....hot in the middle, cooler at the edges.
 
If there was that much of a problem, don't you think Weber engineers would have developed some kind of diffuser for the WSM?

The heat comes up over the bowl on the side and reflects off the domed lid and cooks the meat on the grates.

If you deflect the heat between the bowl and the lid, you're now directing heat to the bottom of the meats.
 
Are you taking those readings with a surface thermometer with the lid closed are are you using another method with the lid open. The air flow dynamics would change drastically if measuring with the lid open.

I would recommend getting a couple of grill thermometers. Place on in center and one on edge. Let the internal temp stabilize to the temp you use the most. Open the lid and check. There is a strong possibility that you will have different results. Of course don't put your edge therm over direct heat.

I am a retired metrologist--as in test and measurements not weather. You could do the same test with a hand held infared by shooting the grates in each location.

My cooking sucks right now because I am too busy measuring, timing and recording things. Sigh.
 
Do what i did, i mounted a 22.5 ots kettle on top of the mid section, bolted the kettle to the mid section, drilled 1/2" all over the bottom of the kettle, now i got an 18.5" grate where the charcoal grate use to go in the kettle and the 22" grate. Works awesome and holds plently of bb ribs all laying flat, if i need extra room for ribs i take another 18.5" grate and flip it over the lower 18.5" grate, do the same on the 22" grate take an extra 22" grate and flip over the original grate. The grate handles hold the grates in place perfectly.
 
I noticed a pretty good difference on both racks on the outer 1-2 inches of the cooking surface - as much as 50 degrees in some cases - which I'd imagine is due to the heat radiating out to the sides past the water pan.

That's just the way it's meant to run, and there's not much room for improvement on a WSM.
As you said, heat travels through that gap around the water pan.
So just don't let any part of your meats on the lower grate extend outside the water pan.
You can always rotate your meats from lower to upper rack part way through a cook if you want to ensure uniformity.
 
If you deflect the heat between the bowl and the lid, you're now directing heat to the bottom of the meats.

That's kind of what I'm trying to do, although it may not make much sense. Eliminating the permeter hot spot by directing more heat towards the middle of the cooker, creating some early convection action before the heat reaches the cooking rack.

Here's my 5-second MS-Paint mock up of an idea using the Brinkman water pan, where the yellow circles represent holes drilled in the top of the bowl walls, and the blue line represents the fill line for the water. I figure that the lip of the bowl will act as just enough of a deflector to help displace some (not all) of the rising heat towards the middle of the cooker before it moves past the water pan.
 

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Are you taking those readings with a surface thermometer with the lid closed are are you using another method with the lid open. The air flow dynamics would change drastically if measuring with the lid open.

Closed lid, after 20 minutes of temp stabilization, using two maverick ET 85's. I did four tests, two on each cooking rack, one with each them in each position (top middle, top edge, bottom middle, bottom edge).
 
Here's my 5-second MS-Paint mock up of an idea using the Brinkman water pan, where the yellow circles represent holes drilled in the top of the bowl walls, and the blue line represents the fill line for the water. I figure that the lip of the bowl will act as just enough of a deflector to help displace some (not all) of the rising heat towards the middle of the cooker before it moves past the water pan.

I don't know how effective this would be, but I can see how you'd get substantial fat in the fire and smoke from burnt drippings on the bottom of the pan.

I wouldn't worry too much about the hot zone around the outside of the grate, except for ribs or briskets. Nowadays, I'll either smoke half slabs in racks or roll and skewer. Two or three inches of foil under the flat end of the brisket will help there.

Use the hot zone to your advantage when it comes to chicken. For instance, always turn chicken where you'll get the thigh done before drying out the other part. If cooking leg quarters, seperate lefties from righties for the two grates and by laying the drum stick knuckles at the center of the grate you'll get more on the racks with the thighs pointed toward the hot zone. (Call it "chicken leg spokes".) I've used three racks for twenty pounds of leg quarters like this and you won't believe how evenly it all gets done, at least if you use some water in the pan and cook 250-275*. For butterflied fryers, cook two to a rack facing opposite directions with the breasts practically touching. As long as the ones on the bottom rack are no larger than about 3.5lbs, you shouldn't have any issues with the drumsticks overcooking if you push the legs up on the breast.

Regarding butts and the hot zone though, check this out: if you take two butts and center them on seperate racks you'll have a harder time getting them done as quickly (and use more charcoal in the process) than if putting two on the top grate. I've cooked many two to a rack and have only just recently started rotating 180* for more evenness. Lots of folks will tell you rotating isn't necessary though, especially if we're talking the top grate. I'd really recommend it though if cooking HH two to a rack or if cooking over 250* with water in the pan.

As to trying to even out temps though, I applaud you. I think you'll find that it's not that big a deal though if you just deal with it as the cook dictates. For instance, put two big butts on the bottom rack and if you lay your brisket on the top rack right, the hot zone is no longer an issue for your brisket ends since the butts will redirect the heat.

The only thing I find that the 18.5" wsm really comes up short on is cooking ribs, and I recently tried putting an entire ring of foil around the perimeter just below the top grate, while cooking three slabs in a rack. Lets just say that I only made things worse, and would only put some foil under the ends if cooking whole slabs...just like protecting the end of a brisket flat.
 
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