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Unread 04-23-2014, 11:45 AM   #1
duke46
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Question Need advice ASAP High temp paint.

I just know there has to be another place to post this I guess?

What we have just completed is a 24 x 36 yard grill from blasting to painting using the Rustoleum spray paint (should have used the liquid one). We are not happy of the turn out of it. A spray can type of deal if you know what I mean.

I do have the liquid paint they make and would like to spray it with that so the job would look better when the customer come to pick it up.

I called Rustoleum and they could not advise guess no one has ever ask?

The spray can says can be recoated after one hr or after 48 hrs. The liquid one has no recoat time but says may be put in use after 24 hrs and says applying another coat is not recommended.

The spray painting was done 24 hrs ago so I have another 24 to wait if necessary before I can recoat (but that would be using the normal spray paint) unless you guys can tell me more? And should I lightly sand down the spray one before I try spraying the liquid or just prep and paint.

I am running a test on a piece of steel I sprayed with the can about 20 hrs ago and just used a brush to put some of the liquid on to see if there is a reaction.

Oh by the way I do love BBQ and grilling
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Unread 04-23-2014, 11:55 AM   #2
DaveAlvarado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duke46 View Post
The spray can says can be recoated after one hr
I'm confused about the problem.
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Unread 04-23-2014, 12:03 PM   #3
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The spray can did not turn out nice and even. Drying to fast maybe? Need to repaint and this time use the liquid paint and put it in my spray gun and paint again. But not sure how long I need to wait with wanting to use it opposed to the spray can one and then should I sand it and then paint like you would a normal automotive type?

Does that help you understand what I am asking a little better?

I understand that it is a flat paint but the company that makes the grills uses liquid and it is nice and even and I need to make it look just as nice as new.
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Unread 04-23-2014, 12:04 PM   #4
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A pic would help.

But, if you think you should have a nice and shinny appearance from the high temp paint, you would be wrong. Its going to be dull flat black and prtty hard to mess that up unless you painted it to heavy.
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Unread 04-23-2014, 01:01 PM   #5
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You may want to cure the first coat before applying the second. Not sure how the two different paints will play together.

I just got done painting my insulated vertical with VHT spray paint (wanted the glossy, metallic look). It is bubbling and discoloring Don't bother with that brand.
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Unread 04-23-2014, 01:29 PM   #6
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I've painted my stickburner twice using Rustoleum high heat paint in my gun so i can let you know what i've found out. Yeah the rattle cans arent as good as the paint that you'd spray with a gun, as you'll find out. I do believe it's a matter of the propellant they use in the can which probably thins it much more than you would in a gun. I thinned mine a little and no issue spraying it so i stuck with what worked. You may have to play with the mixture to get your gun to lay down the paint to your satisfaction.

I've sprayed items before the recoat time, using other brands of paint in rattle cans numerous times and never had a failure however i've also sprayed things that were meticulously prep'ed and had fish eyes. I wouldnt try sanding or preping the pit, just make sure there's nothing on the surface and shoot it. Let that dry for 24-48 hours then fire it up to cure it. When i painted my pit the second time i layed down thinner coats but didnt let the paint dry completely in the area i was working on so several thin layers went down instead of 1 heavy coat.

The wood stove i have in my house was painted with about 5 coats of the same paint using a brush and 90% held up great for 2 years but had some flake off. Recoated in those areas and it's been about 2 years and still looks great.
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Unread 04-23-2014, 01:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
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I thinned mine a little and no issue spraying it so i stuck with what worked. You may have to play with the mixture to get your gun to lay down the paint to your satisfaction.

.
Thanks Zak.
I have a few spray guns but I also have 2.0 nozzle one made for thicker paint so it might work fine but might have to be careful and not put on too much by using that one? It might shoot it fine and I also have other paint guns that I have used to paint cars. It will be something I will have to test and then get my mess together.

What do you like as a thinner? I have both of what they say use on the can.
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Unread 04-23-2014, 01:48 PM   #8
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Just repainted mine.. Went to Harbor freight and bought a HVLP gun 16 dollars and one can of the Liquid rustoleum from Lowes..Thinned down with a little mineral spirits and sprayed just fine. Good even satin finish.
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Unread 04-23-2014, 03:44 PM   #9
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I used paint thinner. Deffinately run some tests to fine tune the mix and settings before laying down the paint on the smoker.
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Unread 04-23-2014, 04:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Just repainted mine.. Went to Harbor freight and bought a HVLP gun 16 dollars and one can of the Liquid rustoleum from Lowes..Thinned down with a little mineral spirits and sprayed just fine. Good even satin finish.
Dag I wish HF would give the fluid nozzle size on their website But most of the time they do in a sales paper MAYBE.

If you can please take a look and see if you can make out what size the one you bought is. It will be on the nozzle after you remove the fan piece off.
My guess is it might be like a 1.0 or 1.8 if it is on there? That would give me some idea at least before I thin too much from the get go.

Need to paint it tomorrow so I am going for it.
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Unread 04-24-2014, 04:07 AM   #11
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or you can try hi-heat / header paint from Eastman..great stuff available on thier web site...they also have a ceramic coating that you can aply.
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Unread 04-24-2014, 06:35 AM   #12
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I see that some of you have used ceramic like VHT for coating you grills. I have read the instructions on how is to be applied and boy is it a royal pain. There are better instructions on their web site. To be honest with you it is real hard to do a grill and go by the heating instructions they have because you can not heat the whole grill the way they tell you to for use on automotive headers.

I have never used their other paints but they are good to 550 but from what I have read they require a primer.

I see they have a Black Oxide case paint good to 550. You just don't want a flame up using them and even 1200 ceramic can fail if hit by flames.

I do ceramic coating along with my powder coating. I have some that are air cure and can take up to 7 days to fully cure depending on the weather and then some are oven cure and cure any where from 400 to 750. If I do a 400 type cure then the heat of the exhaust will finish it. The air dry one can be speeded up by letting it set for 3 hrs and then baking it at 400 for an hr. But will I coat a grill. Nope because it is too dag expensive. $92 for a pt and $160 for a qt and then hazmat shipping. A used grill is not something that a coater wants in his oven because it is going to smoke like crazy and the smoke would get back on the coating. He would have to burn/over bake it till it stopped smoking and then blast. A new one you just built would be fine. But get ready to pull out your money because it is going to cost way more than you expected.

With all the high temp paint made for use on grills then that is the cheapest route for you to go.

You can powder coat a stand but it is not recommended to do any thing above it. Powder is plastic and it can start to re-melt close to the 400 range and that is what most powders cure at. Some can be lower. They do make a 1200 degree powder but remember it has to be oven cured but a coater might not want a used grill in his oven. It is a lot cheaper than ceramic and you buy powder by the pound.

I want to thank you guys for all the help and advice and with good luck I will get the grill I am doing done today.

if you guys ever want to ask anything about powder coating or ceramic then by all means ask away. I have been doing both for over 7 years for a living.
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Unread 04-24-2014, 07:05 AM   #13
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FWIW, I tried the VHT ceramic on my stickburner firebox and in a word it sucked! I was careful to prep the steel, clean it and mimic the curing process using a small propane burner, iGrill and infared temp probes. I discolored in two burns and started to peel/blister by the fourth. Sandblasted it and coated with a quart of 1200 * Rustoleum satin black high temp using my HVLP gun and it has been rocking for about a year. Been thinking of trying the Thermolux high temp paint on one of my next builds but it is more expensive than the Rustoleum (about 2X-3X). POR also makes a great high temp black but it lacks a UV inhibitor and needs to be clearcoated-really expensive. Best of luck.
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