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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, equipment and outdoor cookin' . ** Other cooking techniques are welcomed for when your cookin' in the kitchen. Post your hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures, but stay on topic and watch for that hijacking.


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Old 12-01-2008, 03:16 PM   #2056
JD McGee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dresselbrew View Post
Well I made it all the way through before posting anything. I am just about done with my UDS and will post pics when I finish it with some tasty pron.

One thing that kept irritating me is the use of "food safe". From what I've seen food safe just means they have a liner in the drum. I'm sure that liner isn't food safe when it's burned. The only real food safe would be a stainless steel drum. I think a drum that had food in it or motor oil in it would be fine after a good burn. I've talked to people that used old heating oil barrels as pig cookers after a good burn.

Sorry for the rant. I just had to say it.
I use only unlined food grade drums that contained olive oil. I believe what is meant by "food safe" is that the drum (lined or unlined) did not contain any toxic chemicals. That said...there are folks (as you said) that use drums that contained motor oil. Not a problem IMO...so long as they're properly cleaned.
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:02 PM   #2057
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From what I can tell, the linings used in drums to make them "food safe" for storage purposes are either epoxy-phenolic blend linings or straight phenolic linings.
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Duh.
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:08 PM   #2058
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^^^^^^ For saying phenolic TWICE in the same sentence.
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:11 PM   #2059
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^^^^ For mistaking phenolic for peniholic.
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Old 12-01-2008, 05:38 PM   #2060
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I didn't think they would put food in an unlined barrel unless it was stainless. I guess olive oil would be fine though since it wouldn't let the steel rust like other foods with water in them would.

Burning this drum out is a pain in the a$$. I got it cherry red and the inside is still orange like the liner. There isn't any smoke from the inside anymore because the liner seems to have burned as much as it can. I tried to use a wire wheel on a drill but it is taking a long time to get through to bare metal. I would venture to guess it's fine now but I'm not sure if I want to let it go. Grrr!!!
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Old 12-01-2008, 06:12 PM   #2061
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I have gotten a couple of drums that had oil for bread mold release agent. They were unlined. I cut the top off one that Hook Line and Sinker brought over. it had Bourbon or drinking alcohol in it.
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Old 12-01-2008, 06:50 PM   #2062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dresselbrew View Post
I didn't think they would put food in an unlined barrel unless it was stainless. I guess olive oil would be fine though since it wouldn't let the steel rust like other foods with water in them would.

Burning this drum out is a pain in the a$$. I got it cherry red and the inside is still orange like the liner. There isn't any smoke from the inside anymore because the liner seems to have burned as much as it can. I tried to use a wire wheel on a drill but it is taking a long time to get through to bare metal. I would venture to guess it's fine now but I'm not sure if I want to let it go. Grrr!!!
I think I'd take her down to bare metal bro...just my opinion...I don't think I'd que in it with the liner remnants. You've come this far...a little more time and elbow grease should do the trick (along with the wire wheel).
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:45 AM   #2063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD McGee View Post
I think I'd take her down to bare metal bro...just my opinion...I don't think I'd que in it with the liner remnants. You've come this far...a little more time and elbow grease should do the trick (along with the wire wheel).
Another thing i would think might help is if you have a right angle 4" grinder or the like, you should be able to run that around the inside of the drum to cut some paths down to bare metal (don't do the whole thing). That ought to help you get started with the wire wheel, like giving you a place to get started on the liner where its already down to bare metal.

Just my $.02
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Old 12-04-2008, 12:16 PM   #2064
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Here's a sure-fire way to know if you're down to bare metal. Get it wet and see if it rusts. This should take no longer than a day or 2.
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Old 12-04-2008, 12:43 PM   #2065
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I had the same thing happen with my burnout. The drum got red hot and the outside paint came right off, but that liner just smoked a bit and changed colors. I got it all off with a grinder using a 4 inch knotted wire wheel. Took a couple of sessions and I looked like a coal miner afterward, but it's all shiny bare steel now.

I would be surprised if you could get it off easily with a wire wheel on a drill. That liner is tough.
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Old 12-04-2008, 11:46 PM   #2066
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I had the same thing happen when I burned mine. I gave up and purchased a new one figured my time was valuable.

Next topic, finally found a weber kettle on Craigs list. Did I miss something in all these posts? Does the rim of the barrel have to come off?

I've tried bending the lid out and I don't think its going to seal worth a crap?

I like the flat top look and have considered trying to weld 1/3 of a barrel to the top, but this "appeared" to be an easier and more cost effective solution.
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Old 12-05-2008, 12:03 AM   #2067
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does eveyone take the lining out? I must have missed this step. i had olive oil in my drum and the inside was a tan now its a dark brown, i havn't gotten sick. i wonder if my Q has a high level of metal in it?
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Old 12-05-2008, 12:39 AM   #2068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerJ View Post
I had the same thing happen when I burned mine. I gave up and purchased a new one figured my time was valuable.

Next topic, finally found a weber kettle on Craigs list. Did I miss something in all these posts? Does the rim of the barrel have to come off?

I've tried bending the lid out and I don't think its going to seal worth a crap?

I like the flat top look and have considered trying to weld 1/3 of a barrel to the top, but this "appeared" to be an easier and more cost effective solution.
I think it's just that drums are different. Some fit real good, others take a lot of tweaking to get a good fit.
Mine leaks a bit but I figure if I put it on the same each time then I get the sam amount of leak (which isn't a whole lot).
It took me three or four sessions of bending the rim of the Weber lid to get where I'm at now so don't get discouraged just keep bendingand hammering..make the farker fit!!
I'm considering some kind of stove seal or something too which I think some have done.
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Old 12-05-2008, 09:36 AM   #2069
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You might find it more practical to cut off the top 2 to 3 inches of the kettle body and stick that into the top of your drum. Or cut off the lip of the drum. Or perhaps even add to the lip of the drum. It all depends on your measurements.

The key is to measure things first and see what the best option is based on your particular measurements.

Conversely, f-it all and just go with the original drum lid for the classical flat-top approach
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Old 12-05-2008, 10:24 AM   #2070
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My lid does not seal.

The lid simply sits on the lip of the barrel.
The lid is adjusted pretty well to sit on it all the way around, without any real gaps.

I personally do not find it a problem, and the reason I say this is because I can shut all of the vents off, top and bottom, and the fire goes out. That means I can dial in any low temp I want, all the way to cold.

JMHO, but I think everyone puts too much emphasis on sealing the kettle lids. YMMV of course.

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