Great looking Drum HighQ!!! I'm sure there are many days of good Q that will be a result...
 
Used disc blades, co-worker gave me two 18" disc blades for bases in my soon to be UDS. They come in a multitude of sizes, just check with any farmer friends.
I think that was over a year ago.lol
 
Any Wisconsin Brethren know of a place where I might get a 16 gallon steel drum (27" x 14")? NOw that I have had success at home, I'm thinking of making a mini UDS for my campsite in Green Lake. No barrels of this size on craigslist.

Thanks!

Check with your local repair shop. Grease usually comes in kegs that size and the shops use them for their air greasers.
 
Any Wisconsin Brethren know of a place where I might get a 16 gallon steel drum (27" x 14")? NOw that I have had success at home, I'm thinking of making a mini UDS for my campsite in Green Lake. No barrels of this size on craigslist.

Thanks!

On page 486 I posted and added this link for a guy that did a mini smoker by basically cutting up a 55 gallon one. So I think technically you could create 2 of them from one big size drum. And the benefit is that you get the same cooking area (per grate) because you'd still get the ~22 inch diameter grate on there rather than something like a 16 or whatever gallon drum which likely will have a smaller radius/diameter.
http://www.shortypen.com/projects/bbqsmoker/uds/index.htm
 
Thread read

I read it. I built it.

Pics to follow...........

I read this whole thread and let's just say it took a while. Thanks for all the info. Will contribute my experience when I have some food shots to share.

Thank you contributors.
 
I have been reading this thread for a few days and have decided that I need to build a UDS! I have been looking around and finally found a barrel today. Problem is that it had hydraulic oil in it previously. Will this be ok to use after I burn it out a time or two and clean it up?

Y'all have built some great looking smokers!
 
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Personally, I feel if you do
a few really good hot burn outs,
it will be okay...


I have been reading this thread for a few days and have decided that I need to build a UDS! I have been looking around and finally found a barrel today. Problem is that it had hydraulic oil in it previously. Will this be ok to use after I burn it out a time or two and clean it up?

Y'all have built some great looking smokers!
 
I have been reading this thread for a few days and have decided that I need to build a UDS! I have been looking around and finally found a barrel today. Problem is that it had hydraulic oil in it previously. Will this be ok to use after I burn it out a time or two and clean it up?

Y'all have built some great looking smokers!

Buck, do you know what brand of hydraulic oil was in the drum. I've looked a few MSDS forms for Hydraulic Fluid and they indicate that the stuff is practically non-toxic.

Sounds like a good, thorough, repeated scrubbing and a burn out or two should do the job.

Good luck.

Sterling
 
I have been reading this thread for a few days and have decided that I need to build a UDS! I have been looking around and finally found a barrel today. Problem is that it had hydraulic oil in it previously. Will this be ok to use after I burn it out a time or two and clean it up?

Y'all have built some great looking smokers!

My UDS had hydraulic oil in it and I did two burns with oak pallets that I got from my work and then cleaned it out at a car wash.

I then sprayed it with Pam cooking spray and did a six hour burn with lump charcoal.

It turned out great and the food tastes great.
 
Buck, do you know what brand of hydraulic oil was in the drum. I've looked a few MSDS forms for Hydraulic Fluid and they indicate that the stuff is practically non-toxic.

Sounds like a good, thorough, repeated scrubbing and a burn out or two should do the job.

Good luck.

Sterling


The label on the drum says High Endurance Hydraulic Oil 68. I picked up a few pallets yesterday, going to cut the lid out either today or tomorrow and get a good burn going. Any reccomendations as to how long to burn it each time? I am excited and ready to start smoking!
 
The label on the drum says High Endurance Hydraulic Oil 68. I picked up a few pallets yesterday, going to cut the lid out either today or tomorrow and get a good burn going. Any reccomendations as to how long to burn it each time? I am excited and ready to start smoking!

If you didn't start your burn yet, I would wash it out first with hot soapy water, to get the worst of the oil out. Drill your intake holes before you burn it out, so the fire will burn good. Burn it out with a good hot fire, the paint should peel on the outside if it's hot enough. I don't go buy time just heat.
When you season it, get the temp up to 350-400 for a couple hrs. The UDS is a great cooker, have fun with it.
 
50 gallon metal barrels - $10 (Hoodsport WA)

Hey Guy'z, I just ran across this on Seattle CL . I think i might look into this . So if your in the Tacoma,Olympia or Bremerton give this guy a call .

50 gallon metal barrels - $10 (Hoodsport WA)

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/mat/2138275239.html

Date: 2010-12-31, 10:23PM PST
Reply to: sale-7jypg-2138275239@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]

Approximately 50 clean, 50 gallon metal barrels with rims and lids @ $10 each or
Quantity discounts?
Discount for taking all 50?

Cash only u pick up no exceptions 10-6pm daily

Contact: AL 360-292-3606
23501 hwy 101 Hoodsport Washington 98548

Location: Hoodsport WA
it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

PostingID: 2138275239
 
If anyone is looking for a barrel in the Evansville, IN area, O'Bryan Barrel has them cheap. I just picked up an unlined-reconditioned barrel w/lid for $9 because it had two holes drilled at the bottom, which are set perfectly for vents once I enlarge them. Normal reconditioned barrels are $15 or $20.

http://www.obryanbarrel.com/
 
For the holes in the bottom for the pipe nipples is there any reason why a 1" hole saw can not be used versus the "step bit" alot seem to use?
 
For the holes in the bottom for the pipe nipples is there any reason why a 1" hole saw can not be used versus the "step bit" alot seem to use?

I've used the hole saw and unibit methods. Hole saw is a PIA compared to the unibit IMO.

The Unibit works great. If you stop at the right step on the bit, you can thread the nipple right into the drum. ( I still tack weld it on the inside)
 
I've used the hole saw and unibit methods. Hole saw is a PIA compared to the unibit IMO.

The Unibit works great. If you stop at the right step on the bit, you can thread the nipple right into the drum. ( I still tack weld it on the inside)

Not sure why you think a hole saw is a pita. Punch where you want to drill. Use a 1" hole saw made for metal a drill your hole. Bam a 3/4" pipe will screw right in no problem. Takes maybe 10 seconds to drill a hole.
 
I've used the hole saw and unibit methods. Hole saw is a PIA compared to the unibit IMO.

The Unibit works great. If you stop at the right step on the bit, you can thread the nipple right into the drum. ( I still tack weld it on the inside)

I only have used the hole saw. I've only had one issue with it. Once it wobbled a little bit as it was cutting. This resulted in a slightly larger hole than the nipple which kept me from being able to thread the nipple into the side of the drum like I had every other time I used it. All I had to do was use two conduit nuts - one on the outside and one on the inside - to lock it into place.
 
I was planning on using the conduit nuts no matter what. Nothing like having your nipple fall off at the wrong time!
 
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