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Ugly Drum Smoker

Fark, I thought I would be 10k. this thread is crazy long. I had to stop reading for a while at page 125.
 
^^^ Missed it by THAT MUCH!...
Get-Smart.jpg


That is farken EPIC!

10,000!!!!!!

WOW!

Cheers!

Bill
 
UDS ribs

Awesome thread, they work wonderfully. Some ribs I did a few days ago.
 

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WOW 10k posts woot! :clap2:

I unfortuantely haven't had a chance to use my drum in over a year, which is why I'm back here!

going to have some friends over for some ribs, but was wondering what ppl's thoughts on in regards to cleaning your drum? Besides the grill and ashes, do you wash it out? I was thinking of using some degreaser, wash, and then season it with pam. Is that overkill?
 
sparky66 said:
Hmm...not sure I know what you mean. Why would I want to put a stack on it with a cap. Putting a cap on it is still closing it up. From what I've read from some of the early Pioneers in this thread, using a stack really is just for aesthetics and offers no improvement on air flow. I already have a ball valve on one of the 3/4" intakes. Honestly, I think it is just a matter of starting with way less pre-burned coals to start. Then I should be able to leave the exhaust open more. Going to try on my next cook.
View attachment 69858

My design is pretty much as simple as they get and I have not tried to reinvent the wheel here. I appreciate the feedback Razr.

Sparky

Sparky
Click to expand...

Put the pipe in there so you have an easy way to close your drum up from the elements and to snuff the fire when your done. Secondly the stack will increase your draw and produce better flow and without stale smoke from capping the exhaust...
 
Sandblasting OK?

Just got a barrel today and it has a lining. I live in a neighborhood where a full-blown burn would be frowned upon. Has anyone tried sandblasting or chemical stripping to get down to the bare metal?
Thanks in advance
 
BTW, it's gonna take me a while to get from page 1 to 668 but it should be fun getting there from what I've read so far!:razz:
 
jgh1204 said:
Many have done the sandblasting and said it was well worth the
$$


Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...


I'm slowly collecting materials to build my UDS and the drum I lucked into has that dreaded red lining. I'm just not going to mess with it and get it sandblasted, inside and out. Catch someone at a chrome and body shop on the right day and they might just do it for $30 or $40 and a rack of ribs! :thumb:

Kidding aside, I've read the big hassle with the burnout is the cleanup, and a lot of times requires repetition to get rid of that liner.
 
Ok,

I'm a newbie to the UDS, but am determined to build one. I have a old weber 22.5 kettle that is rusted at the bottom. Plan on making a UDS with as much left over parts from the kettle as possible.

Found a drum company that has:

"Item: DCS55OH
“New” 55-g open-head steel drum / Removable lid / Black w/white top
Price: $56.75 each"

His website says it is 12gauge and 22.5 diameter.
Raw steel interior


Is this a reasonable price? Would my kettle top fit directly on the top or would I have to modify?

Thank in advance with any help!!!
 
moe1967 said:
Ok,

I'm a newbie to the UDS, but am determined to build one. I have a old weber 22.5 kettle that is rusted at the bottom. Plan on making a UDS with as much left over parts from the kettle as possible.

Found a drum company that has:

"Item: DCS55OH
“New” 55-g open-head steel drum / Removable lid / Black w/white top
Price: $56.75 each"

His website says it is 12gauge and 22.5 diameter.
Raw steel interior


Is this a reasonable price? Would my kettle top fit directly on the top or would I have to modify?

Thank in advance with any help!!!
Click to expand...

I would say for a clean drum that is not a bad deal. I have burned out a couple and am so over ever doing that again. U-line has drums for right around 100 so I would say buy it. Just my opinion.
 
ibmachead said:
Just got a barrel today and it has a lining. I live in a neighborhood where a full-blown burn would be frowned upon. Has anyone tried sandblasting or chemical stripping to get down to the bare metal?
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...


You can use a weed burner from the outside and it will remove the inside liner. I did it in a neighborhood with no issues.
 
Johnny_Crunch said:
You can use a weed burner from the outside and it will remove the inside liner. I did it in a neighborhood with no issues.
Click to expand...
You are correct they do work and pretty well.
I did that, and its sooo not worth the propane :biggrin1: I would almost rather suit up and dawn the respirator, doubled up hearing protection and dive in with a grinder and wire wheel. I just have an aversion to doing it is all.:roll:
 
Some questions:

I have made my UDS with 2 grates, I was wondering since I have 2 RC thermometers should I use them for both grates?, what distance from the grates should they be installed?, where should they be; above or under the grates?.

Oh, one more thing, is a smoke stack necessary?.

Thanks in advance. :thumb:
 
Didn't have much luck searching the thread so...
Anyone in the KC area know where I can get a drum sandblasted?
 
moe1967 said:
Ok,

I'm a newbie to the UDS, but am determined to build one. I have a old weber 22.5 kettle that is rusted at the bottom. Plan on making a UDS with as much left over parts from the kettle as possible.

Found a drum company that has:

"Item: DCS55OH
“New” 55-g open-head steel drum / Removable lid / Black w/white top
Price: $56.75 each"

His website says it is 12gauge and 22.5 diameter.
Raw steel interior


Is this a reasonable price? Would my kettle top fit directly on the top or would I have to modify?

Thank in advance with any help!!!
Click to expand...

I agree the price is decent for a new, clean drum. You'd have to test your Weber lid for fit (never know if you get lucky) but most likely the top edge of the drum wall is rolled over to create a lip that makes the top of the drum slightly thicker than the 22.5 diameter of the inside walls. Some people cut off the lip and others bolt or weld a ring of thin metal inside the top of the drum and sticking above the lip maybe 1/8" or 1/4 inch for the Weber top to rest on. That may need to be hammered to get a tight fit fit when you put on the top. Make sense?
 
Foxfire said:
I agree the price is decent for a new, clean drum. You'd have to test your Weber lid for fit (never know if you get lucky) but most likely the top edge of the drum wall is rolled over to create a lip that makes the top of the drum slightly thicker than the 22.5 diameter of the inside walls. Some people cut off the lip and others bolt or weld a ring of thin metal inside the top of the drum and sticking above the lip maybe 1/8" or 1/4 inch for the Weber top to rest on. That may need to be hammered to get a tight fit fit when you put on the top. Make sense?
Click to expand...

Yep, makes sense. And I have already thought about it. If that would be the case I would cut off the lip of the bottom portion of my kettle, bolt and then seal it with high temp sealant.

Hopefully its a direct fit though
 
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