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I need a table on my uds, anyone got a good but cheap mod for a removable side table? And don't say tv tray I already know that one lol:becky:
2011-04-24%2015.38.37.jpg
 
After reading 3/4's of this thread, I am ready to start a UDS build this weekend:clap2: So much info and so many options to think about:becky:
 
Truthfully, its easier than the read. there is just too much to take in here. So im sure your mind was like. Im going to do this, but wait I remember reading this, but he said this would work better...

In the end, like all say keep it simple. The hardest part is choosing whether you want to use SS or zinc hardware. I went SS, its WAYYY cheaper at Ace than lowes. Trust me.
 
The previous post made me think of something I was going to post about a while back. I was using all stainless hardware on the first UDS I made, but I couldn't find the right size fender washers one day, so I bought Zinc, and figured I would just torch them to get the zinc off. No wayyyyyyy

I almost melted one of the washers....it was red hot, and it did not fume off anything. So, I looked up the specs on zinc coatings.........they don't even melt until about 800 degrees F, and they don't vaporize until over 1600 degrees F. Call me crazy, but I don't think that my UDS will ever get close to that hot, even if I had some red hot coals laying directly on the hardware.

I don't see any reason not to use Zinc coated bolts, and washers, etc, for grate supports and lid/handle hardware. This stuff will never get that hot, other than in the initial burnout, when I don't have any hardware on it.

Anyone else given any more thought to this??
 
I saw that about the zinc too.

Cut the bottom out of my drum since the weber lid fit easier. I am going to try and use the 2" bung on the bottom for my intake. I saw that most others end up only using 1 intake with a valve and the others capped off on the sides. Would it be any different using an intake in the bottom, not centered. Thought I'd come in through the bottom and put a 90 elbow on it so ash wouldn't get in it.
 
The previous post made me think of something I was going to post about a while back. I was using all stainless hardware on the first UDS I made, but I couldn't find the right size fender washers one day, so I bought Zinc, and figured I would just torch them to get the zinc off. No wayyyyyyy

I almost melted one of the washers....it was red hot, and it did not fume off anything. So, I looked up the specs on zinc coatings.........they don't even melt until about 800 degrees F, and they don't vaporize until over 1600 degrees F. Call me crazy, but I don't think that my UDS will ever get close to that hot, even if I had some red hot coals laying directly on the hardware.

I don't see any reason not to use Zinc coated bolts, and washers, etc, for grate supports and lid/handle hardware. This stuff will never get that hot, other than in the initial burnout, when I don't have any hardware on it.

Anyone else given any more thought to this??

Hey--what's goin' on in here? Somebody thinking for themselves?? You know that's dangerous:heh:...

I'm with you all the way on the zinc deal. All the hubbub over it is ridiculous. Pretty much shows me that the internet is nothing more than a bigger "back fence" to gossip over... "somebody said that somebody said that somebody said this zinc stuff will turn your hair green and make you grow an elbow out of your forehead". Once it's repeated enough time it's "fact". I use whatever I've got around, or whatever I can find for the money I'm willing to spend at the time.

To top it off, I even use *gasp!* galvanized hardware cloth to make the walls for my fire basket. For less than the price of one chunk of expando, you can get enough 1" hardware cloth to make 4 or 5 baskets. Read the specs on what it takes for galvanized to give off fumes... It's a non-issue...

Thanks for bringing this up, and more importantly, thank you for thinking things through for yourself instead of following the herd.

And no, this is not to belittle anybody for coming to different conclusions than I did. It's all good in the end, and we do what we think is right.
 
I saw that about the zinc too.

Cut the bottom out of my drum since the weber lid fit easier. I am going to try and use the 2" bung on the bottom for my intake. I saw that most others end up only using 1 intake with a valve and the others capped off on the sides. Would it be any different using an intake in the bottom, not centered. Thought I'd come in through the bottom and put a 90 elbow on it so ash wouldn't get in it.

A couple of my thoughts.

I guess you'd use a magnet, or some other means of controlling the air intake? a 2" valve seems pretty big to stick on there.

I get liquid in the bottom of my drum when I smoke, so I'm guessing that might run into the hole, which might not be terrific.
 
A couple of my thoughts.

I guess you'd use a magnet, or some other means of controlling the air intake? a 2" valve seems pretty big to stick on there.

I get liquid in the bottom of my drum when I smoke, so I'm guessing that might run into the hole, which might not be terrific.

Magnet or a swivel teardrop over the pipe. I had planned running it up the side of the UDS halfway.

The liquid in the bottom is why I was thinking of installing a 90 on the inside. A 2" 90 on a close nipple will get the hole an inch or so off the bottom. Guess I'll just try it and see if it works good. If not, can always modify it to a hole(s) in the side later.
 
Magnet or a swivel teardrop over the pipe. I had planned running it up the side of the UDS halfway.

The liquid in the bottom is why I was thinking of installing a 90 on the inside. A 2" 90 on a close nipple will get the hole an inch or so off the bottom. Guess I'll just try it and see if it works good. If not, can always modify it to a hole(s) in the side later.

Ah, I follow you on the 90 now. Sounds good. I'm new to this but I like having complete control over the air intake, so I'd make sure whatever you do there provides good / repeatable sealing.
 
I am building my second UDS and I have read every page of this forum, but I am looking for an idea i saw on here and I'm not sure where to find it amongst the 500+ pages. The idea I am looking for is the plans for the rod that extends from the ball valve at the bottom of the drum up to a handle about half way up the drum.
 
I think this is what you're looking for...The Big Belly Mod by Norcoredneck...
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1001206&postcount=21

I am building my second UDS and I have read every page of this forum, but I am looking for an idea i saw on here and I'm not sure where to find it amongst the 500+ pages. The idea I am looking for is the plans for the rod that extends from the ball valve at the bottom of the drum up to a handle about half way up the drum.
 
I am building my second UDS and I have read every page of this forum, but I am looking for an idea i saw on here and I'm not sure where to find it amongst the 500+ pages. The idea I am looking for is the plans for the rod that extends from the ball valve at the bottom of the drum up to a handle about half way up the drum.

I retro-fitted one of my BUFORD's with the long rod valve adjuster on all three valves. I chose to use the original valve handle and bend it vertically since it has the squared off hole in the handle and fits the valve stem tightly. Then thread the rod into the handle and fabricate a new handle at the top.

valvebracket.jpg


assembly.jpg


standoff.jpg
 
Ok so I found my side table for my uds, it's a old jim beam whiskey barrel lid but It's so old I kinda want to know if its worth anything before I go cutting it maybe someone here might know something about it. My dad has had it for years and doesn't care what I do with it. I cant seem to find anything on google..

2011-04-29%2018.24.12.jpg
 
I retro-fitted one of my BUFORD's with the long rod valve adjuster on all three valves. I chose to use the original valve handle and bend it vertically since it has the squared off hole in the handle and fits the valve stem tightly. Then thread the rod into the handle and fabricate a new handle at the top.

valvebracket.jpg


assembly.jpg


standoff.jpg

NICE! Thanks for the input.
 
I received two nice 55 gal drums that contained juice. I noticed that the inside of each drum was redish. I read a lot of these threads and just figured the liner was a plastic coating. Mine felt like paint so I thought nothing of it. Well, I burned 4 pallets and the paint came off the outside no problem but there was barely any change inside the drum. The red is still there. I decided to spend some money and buy a brand new unlined 55gal 16g drum from McMaster Carr. If I buy a new drum do I still have to burn it out? I will still keep trying to remove the red liner and if I am successful I will have 3 UDS's.
 
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