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Pat:

The harbor freight unit says "Sprays light, medium and heavy stain, varnish, and latex."

The other unit mentions "metalworking" Rather vauge.

Spray painting cars usually entails pretty high flows and pressures.

So please enlighten me.
HVLP is used for painting cars ect. as far as my understanding and is law in California. High Volume Low Pressure. You wouldn't want high pressure when you are so close to something you are painting. I'll be going the rattle can route with mine to keep cost down.
 
After reading this complete post, I was wondering if there is now a consensus on the size of the charcoal basket? 15"diameter x 6" high seems to be popular. Any others that work well?

Rob

the size of the charcoal basket is totally up to you, you just want to be sure that 1, it can hold at least 10 lbs minimum (IMHO) of fuel i.e charcoal, lump, etc, and 2, it is small enough to place into the bottom of the drum without having to fight the bolts that hold the grates in place. My basket is 18" wide by 6" high and it accomplishes both of those.
 
HVLP is used for painting cars ect. as far as my understanding and is law in California. High Volume Low Pressure. You wouldn't want high pressure when you are so close to something you are painting. I'll be going the rattle can route with mine to keep cost down.

If you are going to buy something to paint, get an air assisted pump.
It will keep overspray down to a minimum, which means less product loss.
Not to mention the finish will be much better. check out Kremlin products
 
If you are going to buy something to paint, get an air assisted pump.
It will keep overspray down to a minimum, which means less product loss.
Not to mention the finish will be much better. check out Kremlin products
Hvlp is a great transfer method. Not near the overspray that regular spreay guns use. I bought mine to do patio furniture. We have one of these at work and it worked great (more expensive of course). I went to get a water filter for my compressor and they had this. lot easier and more efficient than my Binks. No long air hose needed. I painted metal pool fence srctions also. Great tool to have. I also used it to spray doors, lot's easier than brush and better finish. Now back to drums.
 
So I got one of the Kettle Grills from Sears and the lid is to small, it sits right on top of the drum. So does "cut the roll off the top" make the outside diameter enough smaller for the Kettle lid to fit over the drum? And if it does, what are the options for how to make a clean cut on the roll?

I cut the top off mine with a sawzall with a metal cutting blade. I could have done a much better job if I had of had some metal blades for my jigsaw.

I would be very cautious about cutting the entire top roll off of the drum. I think it adds a lot to the structural stiffness of the drum. IMHO you are much better off using an angle grinder to grind down the roll until the Weber lid fits snugly. That is what I did on my second UDS. Maybe someone who has cut the roll off will chime in...

You are probably right Gator. I jumped ahead and cut the top off mine without thinking of the possible consequences. However, I did my burn in this afternoon and so far everything looks ok.:-D

Here are some pics of the burn out.:biggrin:
I bought a $4 bag of mesquite. I never cook on it but it is hot chit.

Here is the barrel in full blaze and you can see the seam holding ok. You can also see the jagged top that I still have to grind down:oops:


And here it is from the top view:icon_cool
 
Hvlp is a great transfer method. Not near the overspray that regular spreay guns use. I bought mine to do patio furniture. We have one of these at work and it worked great (more expensive of course). I went to get a water filter for my compressor and they had this. lot easier and more efficient than my Binks. No long air hose needed. I painted metal pool fence srctions also. Great tool to have. I also used it to spray doors, lot's easier than brush and better finish. Now back to drums.

Could you use it to paint walls? I hate painting rooms and my wife is constantly trying to get me to repaint the rooms.

Kremlin is a good product? I will be looking into these.
 
http://www.ekremlin.com/Main/Literature/litimages/MVX_Brochure.pdf

Didnt look through the whole catalog, but at least the guns for Airmix are in here....not sure about the pumps.
I use a pump in my shop for spraying cabinets. But I could take the pump anywhere I want...all I need is some filtered air at about 50psi. The pump is the size of a carryon suitcase. Page 3 actually shows some of the pumps, but companies built these into portable units...if i can get photos i will
 
I would be very cautious about cutting the entire top roll off of the drum. I think it adds a lot to the structural stiffness of the drum. IMHO you are much better off using an angle grinder to grind down the roll until the Weber lid fits snugly. That is what I did on my second UDS.

Maybe someone who has cut the roll off will chime in...
That's what I ended up doing on mine...cutting the entire lip off. The Weber lid fits perfectly now, but it does present an edge you may have to file and be mindful of. I haven't noticed any loss of structural integrity either, it's still plenty rigid, but if I was to lay it down and roll it that might be a different story.
 
Could you use it to paint walls? I hate painting rooms and my wife is constantly trying to get me to repaint the rooms.

Kremlin is a good product? I will be looking into these.

I've used tens of different types/manufactures....I wont use anything but Kremlin Airmix

But you would not use this to paint walls with, they do have other products though
 
I looked at the Kremlin brochure. Stuff looks pricey.

Let's not forget; these are Ugly Drum Smokers. I say keep them ugly!

Trying to make them pretty is like putting lipstick on a pig.

Ugly is beautiful; pass it on.
 
I looked at the Kremlin brochure. Stuff looks pricey.

Let's not forget; these are Ugly Drum Smokers. I say keep them ugly!

Trying to make them pretty is like putting lipstick on a pig.

Ugly is beautiful; pass it on.
If you had beautiful custom finishes you would have a much much larger possible customer base.
would even go higher with artistic drawings etc on the drums.

But price-wise....Depending on the gun you chose and a lower volume portable pump would run about $1600
 
I cut the top off mine with a sawzall with a metal cutting blade. I could have done a much better job if I had of had some metal blades for my jigsaw.



Here are some pics of the burn out.:biggrin:
I bought a $4 bag of mesquite. I never cook on it but it is hot chit.

Here is the barrel in full blaze and you can see the seam holding ok. You can also see the jagged top that I still have to grind down:oops:


And here it is from the top view:icon_cool

How close is the fit for the weber lid??

My fix would be to get a somewhat "flexible" piece of steel...maybe 1/8" thick x 2 or 3" tall then either weld it to the inside of the drum or use some type of fasteners(stainless rivets) keep one inch or so of the metal band above the lip on drum.
 
I have several drums I am preparing for members of the family. I found that one drum with a flat rim is a perfect fit for the weber tops. The rounded ones I have to grind down. In the future I will try to get drums with flat rims.
 
If you check your drum Weber lids fit most bottoms. I flipped mine over and cut the bottom out using a drum deheader and kept the band clamp and top on as bottom. An added bonus is that when it gets scruddy inside I can take bottom (old top) off and power wash cyllinder and bottom real well.
IMG_2437.jpg


IMG_2438.jpg


Valve-1.jpg


IMG_2604.jpg
 
Seems to be an awfull lof of work removing the rolled edge when all you really need to do is take a crescent wrench and use it to "tweak" the edge of the webber lid and it will fit over and seal pretty well.
 
As i still cannot download my pic's, my UDS is completed and seasoning as we speak!!
Put 5# Rancher in my charcoal basket from my off-set and a 1/2 chimney of lit with some Mesquite about 1:30.
1 cap open and my ball valve 1/4 open and settled in at 235*.......5 HOURS AGO!!!
I am totally amazed at how these thing's run!! Lifted the lid to take a peak and have only burned about 1/2 of that charcoal, temp ran up to 270 from the blast of air and settled right back down to 230ish without touching a thing!! :biggrin:
Will be breaking it in this weekend with something, now to get some more part's for that other barrell!! :wink:
 
was wondering what if a temp gage was mounted just off center on the lid still leaving room for a handle would this give a better temp reading than at great level and off to the side

If I can get over and pic up my drum tomorrow I will be starting my build Saturday
 
was wondering what if a temp gage was mounted just off center on the lid still leaving room for a handle would this give a better temp reading than at great level and off to the side

If I can get over and pic up my drum tomorrow I will be starting my build Saturday

It wouldn't hurt to add a thermometer in the drum lid, the temps will register higher. I have one mounted in a drum lid and all my Weber lids have have them. I would consider a hole for a remote meat probe on the side at grate level too.
 
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